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Gave a guy $125 for a Thunder, beat up and not running.
Got it home and threw the carb into my ultrasonic cleaner. while the cleaner did its magic I tested compression and spark and drained the nasty old gas. Valve lash was WAY out of adjustment.
threw the carb back together and installed it. Now it runs beautifully.

Now I need to make it look decent. The only body part that isn't broken or missing is the front fender. Amazingly the seat isn't ripped either.
The only sours I've found on the Web for body plastic wants buku bucks!, it would cost well over $200.
Does anyone know of a Chinese supplier for the plastic? What other scooter panels would fit the frame?
Thanks in advance!

It's a good idea to run synthetic oil to avoid premature ring failure in the future.
After you get the motor back together put regular oil in it and run two or three tanks of gas (normal riding) through it to seat the new rings in the cylinder.
Avoid WOT for a few hundred miles to avoid accidently micro welding between the rings and freshly honed cylinder.
You'll know the rings are seated when you see normal blow-by from the crank case breather tube.
Heat and contaminants in the oil are what wears out the piston rings and cylinder. We can't do much about the contamination, the piss poor oil filters in our machines only catch the chunks of crap in the oil system. That's why changing the oil at the correct intervals is so important. Synthetic oil lubricates better than conventional oil, especially when it's hot.
I've installed a small fan that runs all the time on my cf 250 in an effort to keep the engine as cool as the thermostat will allow (running an engine too cold makes a whole different bunch of problems).
I've seen $15 oil coolers that wouldn't be hard to plumb into the external oil line that runs to the head on my machine. The ultimate fix would be to incorporate a oil filter and cooler into that oil line.
You know...... you have a good excuse to get a big bore kit for your machine now....just sayen....

Download and study the wiring schematic for your bike.the schematic will ttell you what the different wires control.

If your new ignition switch didn't come with documentation that tells you which wires go where you can use an ohms meter to determine which wires are switched on and off with the different key positions.

If you can't figure it out tonight and have to have your transportation you can hot wire Your scooter in the mean time. Consult the bikes wiring schematic to determine which wire is hot at all times,which wire is for ignition and which wire is lighting. Twist them together and your bike should run.

BE AWARE YOUR KILL SWITCH MAY OR MAY NOT WORK WITH THE BIKE HOT WIRED!

New piston,wrist pin, rings, gaskets, valve seals and water pump are on the way. In the mean time I'm honing the cylinder and lapin the valves. Also I'm going through the cooling system. Greased the cooling fan bearings and cleaned up the comutator. The inside of the radiator was NASTY so I dropped it in my ultrasonic cleaner and also tested the thermo switch. Changed out the cheap hose clamps and added a 120mm pusher fan where the huge horn used to be (relocated to the nose). The extra fan draws .25 amps so there shouldn't be a charging issue.
Here's a pic of the fan, I got power for it from the existing fan circuit.