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Post by grocerygetter on Jul 31, 2012 5:01:55 GMT -6
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Post by grocerygetter on Jul 31, 2012 4:41:16 GMT -6
Me too.
Been buying my A/V stuff there for a couple yrs now.
Never a complaint.
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Post by grocerygetter on Jul 29, 2012 20:24:10 GMT -6
Bringing kids to school presented some problems last yr. I opted to buy a trunk rack this summer and will find a suitable bag to latch on to it. However I would not recommend buying the rack that I did. Very poor quality. Welding splatter that needed to be ground off. Holes at each end of the bars likely for fabrication but will rust out from the inside. I filled the bars from each hole with expanding Styrofoam. Messy. And one leg is 3/8" shorted than the others as well as being crooked. I apologize for picture quality - used my phone this time. BLUE TAPE TO KEEP FROM SCRATCHING THE TOP AND MARK THE LEG POSITIONS FOR DRILLING  SET THE RACK ON TOP AND MARK THE LEGS  DRILL THE LEG HOLES - I WENT 1/16" OVER THE SCREW SIZE; HAD TO OPEN UP BECAUSE THE LEGS ARE ON A SLIGHT ANGLE  BOUGHT FAUCET WASHERS TO ISOLATE BETWEEN THE TRUNK - NOTE THE 2 EXTRA NEEDED ON ONE ODD LEG  REMOVE THE TAPE AND MOUNT  STARTING THE SCREWS TOOK LONGER THAN GETTING TO THIS POINT; THE LEGS ARE SO CROOKED YOU HAVE TO GET THE SCREWS AT THE RIGHT ANGLE TO START THEM    I PLAN ON SILICONING FELT MATERIAL ON THE LID TO COVER THE SCREWS; I LOVE CLEAR SILICONE BECAUSE IT ISN'T PERMANENT  |
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Post by grocerygetter on Jul 29, 2012 18:43:13 GMT -6
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Post by grocerygetter on Jul 10, 2012 10:51:55 GMT -6
I remember when I was going thru delivery damage claims with PowerSportsMax and during the many months to resolve I read hundreds of complaints, many exactly worded and handled like mine, and the BBB gives them an A. Total BS and I said that over a yr ago. I swear you can ask people around me that I said they must have their hands in something because you cannot possibly give an A rating to a company that has one complaint for every second sale
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Post by grocerygetter on Jul 9, 2012 10:43:24 GMT -6
Thanks for looking into the jet size. Yes I believe someone dialed his setup in with an O2 sensor and he liked the 118 or was it 115? I would take heed to the higher temp that this carb/jet may impose. Many people south of New England tend to have over heating issues as it is. Even in the 80deg temps here there's a nice breeze often off the lake. Possibly more oxygen. My performance seems to be good to decent. I'm sure different jetting and the sliders that I havent got to will net me something. Yesterday with 2 riders against a gusty 30mph wind and up a good hill that causes my truck to gear down, i was able to hold 55mph with no issue. Had lots of throttle left. On that heat note I keep looking into small car heater cores or add-on tranny coolers that can possibly fit into the space below the gas tank where there is currently a 'snaked' array of the lower rad hose with a coil-over spring. If I find a heater core that can be retro fitted there it will be my next project, even though heat up here is rarely an issue. I'd just like to keep the engine cooler regardless. Runs better. .autocarparts.com/images/3/937_3.jpg" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .autocarparts.com/images/3/937_3.jpg |
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Post by grocerygetter on Jul 8, 2012 16:12:54 GMT -6
Good catch on the damage before installing.
And nice that you had no trouble with a replacement.
Its disappointing enough when you are ready to make a repair and have a brand new defective part in your hand, and then the thought process starts wondering how easy this is going to be rectified.
Also good call leaving the jets that came in it as these replacements seem to be working well. Although it would be interesting to know what they are. And if in fact we are all getting the same jets for that matter. You know that 10 yr old kid in the factory is grabbing whatever they give him from a box full of jets.
BTW took the wife out for a 100 mile tour around the north end of the lake and thru the islands today.
It was hot today, 2 people on it, some good grades to go up. I honestly didn't expect to get into the 80mpg range today. Outside temp and 2 riders do show in performance.
GPS showed 96 miles. Took 1.229 gals to fill it back up in town.
No dead-on science to these numbers but that works out to 78mpg. I eyeball it to the same place in the filler neck best as possible. But really if you mess the numbers by a decimal place or two it does make a difference in the result.
I absolutely notice a mpg difference with outside temperature. And sitting in city traffic. Definitely doesn't like hot city driving. None of which I did today.
Rural drives in cooler temps that I've been doing alone around the lake feel like it can't run any better.
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Post by grocerygetter on Jul 5, 2012 21:29:17 GMT -6
Hi grocerygetter. I believe THIS is the same as the one you have. I went back and forth on the pictures and that listing in eBay does look like the on I have. About the same price too. I just found the pictures of the shipping carton as well. Mike Ting from Pomona CA. Model CBKF250 Attachments:
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Post by grocerygetter on Jul 5, 2012 19:12:40 GMT -6
Not sure what the differences are from the stock unit that make it better but someday I may take them apart and compare closer. For now it runs too good to mess with it. Thats a slightly better price than what I paid. I encourage anyone who is questioning their carb or choke performance to grab one of these and be done with it. |
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Post by grocerygetter on Jul 5, 2012 18:43:30 GMT -6
UPDATE Found the pictures of the new carb I got on eBay. New one is on the left, original is on the right in all pictures Too bad the seller doesn't list them anymore. Note the idle screw on the new carb is horizontal (difficult), old carb was vertical (easier to adjust). Both have the same KF JAPAN stampings but there are significant detail differences in the castings. I had to slightly reroute the throttle cable.           |
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Post by grocerygetter on Jul 4, 2012 13:30:02 GMT -6
From the description of the valve adjustment, I would guess that it's a 257cc. Sounds like the engine is running sweet. The next question is concerning the carb. Did you replace the original? If so, what kind did you install and where did it come from? I have tried numerous times to find the carb I bought and pictures that I swear I took of the original and the new one side by side for comparison. No luck. I bought it on Ebay thru the advice of another member on SD with the same great results as me (as if there was a batch with jets for our country?) and I have my order # but the product is no longer listed. Here is the page to the same vendor and his current list of carbs. stores.ebay.com/T-MOTORSPORTS-STORE/_i.html?_nkw=carb&submit=Search&_sid=111966282Mine is not there. Known as T-motorsports on many sites with sometimes sketchy transactions mainly surrounding misrepresented quality, but known as gold3288gold on eBay. I've now bought a few things from him and my only questionable quality would be the trunk luggage rack that I haven't mounted yet do to that quality that requires more than just a screw on application. Sorry I couldn't supply more detailed info on the carb. |
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Post by grocerygetter on Jul 4, 2012 11:40:39 GMT -6
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Post by grocerygetter on Jun 21, 2012 10:17:52 GMT -6
Sorry people
It's a 2007 JCL 257, bought new in 2011.
@ Cruiser - always impressed with your knowledge.
Well I filled up at lunch and it wasn't quite as good as the last 2 tanks but I find that ambient outside temp plays a big role.
Previous 2 tanks were run with 70* outside temps.
This tank we've had mid 90's outside.
So, drum roll............... 84mpg in the hotter weather.
Still can't beilive it and I'm trying myself to disprove it by any possible error.
I've been calculating mpg in my vehicles for over 20yrs and converting while working in Europe so this isn't new to me.
@ Alleyoop - yep I'm sure the valves were never quite right but definitely got worse over the 1600 miles so far.
Yes I replaced the original carb. I was blindly looking for restitution during breakin for better results. Feeling pretty certain I never had the valves right to begin with because the inconsistent starting and performance issues have gone away.
I'll have to look tonight and let you know where and what I got for the replacement.
At this point I will not move forward with the different jets I had been contemplating before the valve adjustment.
Not even sure I will do the clutch sliders yet.
Tires however are still original and very annoying.
Looking into the tires JR suggested and some Dynabeads.
Need to get rid of that vibration above 60 mph. Not to mention the growling and humming.
Hey might even got another mpg!
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Post by grocerygetter on Jun 20, 2012 10:01:47 GMT -6
I held off for a couple tanks before jumping to conclusions.
Haven't had much time this spring to continue dialing in the bike from last fall when I first started using it.
Dreaded pulling plastic off to do the inevitable valve adjustment but I had all the symptoms, especially at the end of my long ride in spring.
Decided to drill 2 holes thru the bottom of the battery box to access the top cap and was able to make that adjustment on the intake valve.
Only undone the 2 farthest back screws on the black bottom panel to drop it from the back and let it hang from the front.
Got the exhaust valve from there. However I left that one loose at about 6 - 7 thou. A little ticky but the results have proved that is better than too tight.
Biggest time saver was not going thru this timing business.
I thought about it. All I want to see is the valve in its closed position. I dont really care what cycle its in.
So I slowly cycled the engine tapping on the starter with the battery hooked up until I saw the valve closing. Repeated a couple times to make sure I was in a closed cycle when adjusting each valve.
When finished the thing started within a second and the idle went over 3 grand.
I had been over compensating the idle as my performance detoriated since new.
Grabbed a handy minature rachet wrench with Phillips bit in it since this is the only way to adjust the idle on the carb I replaced my original with - the idle screw is now horizontal facing the back of the bike, not vertical like the original.
Man I had to have had that screw halfway out.
Got the warm idle down just below clutch engagement and wheel spin.
Perfect.
Has never ran so smooth and started so good. Hot and cold.
Starts the same with no stumbling.
Power is right there. Need to retry those mountain passes I've always had trouble with.
I have to admit I was at the point where I don't have the time to constantly adjust this bike and it wasn't near my expectations to begin with.
Now I love it and would buy another.
60mph with barely any throttle.
Carrying two up grades with no slow down like it had before.
Two tanks now with city stop and go walking up to traffic lights that cycle 3 times before my turn.
Plus rural 50mph half that way.
Get this.
89mpg.
I am blown away. And I verified with GPS.
I did it twice. And it feels like it. No effort to make this thing go and keep speed now.
Cant wait to do a long rural tour and I have complete confidence in 90mpg.
Different carb, fine tuning the air fuel screw, loose valve adjustment. Did the trick for me finally.
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Post by grocerygetter on May 10, 2012 10:37:10 GMT -6
I guess my snowmobiling mentality carried over to the scooter.
Difference is on my older snowmobiles we leave the key on in the event of a freeze up you are ready to go. Always just killed it and flicked the kill switch back on when it stopped.
Who reached for a kill switch anyway in an emergency? I'd likely be using all my attention to maneuver out of the circumstances.
A tether to me was the better device on snowmobiles.
Regardless I cleaned up my kill switch and havent used it since and havent had a problem.
**** However when I took it apart the first time I coated the contacts with dyelectric grease, and was wondering if too much of that was causing it to arc across the contacts and create that black streak between them?
Also, I noticed when I was having trouble with the switch shutting the bike down, my tach and temp gauge would become erratic.
I wonder if they are somehow connected in the circuit and if others have had misleading problems not realizing the source could be this crappy kill switch?
I haven't bother to replace yet as the bike is running fine but for reliablity I'm still wondering if the Honda switch would plug in at the end. BTW I followed that wire down the handlebars and into the front and that plug end is burried. Requires removing the front cowl.
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