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Post by debbieb on Apr 30, 2014 15:21:55 GMT -6
It jumps around, but in the 5.8 -6.1 volt range testing at the battery while cranking.
Also, we hooked it up to the battery charger and putting the charger in start/50amp mode, the scooter starts.
PS> John, in reading other posts, I see a lot of discussion with a lennie11b who had the exact same scooter as we have... 2008 Jonway YY150t-2. His description of the rectifier is exactly the same as ours. In some comments, there was some question about his bike being modified, but NO, the way he described his matches what we are seeing. I'm not sure from reading all those posts whether his problem was every resolved.
Unlike his, our running lights come on fine once the bike starts and the toggle switch turns the headlights on/off with no problem. But we question why the bike won't start with a new battery. Also, before switching out the old battery with the new one, we did test for battery drain and at a 20microamp setting on the multimeter, we were getting a .31 reading... I don't know what that means, but it seems low.
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Post by debbieb on Apr 30, 2014 14:23:26 GMT -6
2008 Jonway 150cc - was running very well (once I got the brake switch thing worked out) and starting OK except for when it sat for a few weeks. The battery tested weak and it was several years old from a prior owner so we thought the battery was the problem. We just bought a new battery and it tests fine on a load tester and shows 12.7 volts. Now when we try to start the scooter, it turns over once, but won't start, worse than before. Just one little grrrrrr, then nothing, just as if the battery was weak or dead. But the battery tests good. I was going to do some testing on the rectifier since we thought perhaps the battery wasn't charging, but now if it won't start, I can't test that, can I? Not sure I can even get to the rectifier wiring since I can't figure out how to remove the side panel without taking all the fendering off. But before I even think about that, is there something more obvious or easier to check? Here's a pic of my CDI and rectifier, just in case that helps with answers.
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Post by debbieb on Apr 30, 2014 14:12:29 GMT -6
Jonway 2008 150cc - behind the front shield where all the headlight wiring is there is a black wire with a female bullet terminal end and a green wire with a male bullet terminal which are not connected to anything. Also there is a flat terminal with a green and black wire. We've been having some trouble starting the scooter (see new post) all of a sudden when it had been running perfectly, so we thought maybe these came disconnected. I tried connecting the black and green wire and I think that may have caused the fuse at the battery to blow (or it was a coincidence). Any ideas what these are and could they really have been just laying there disconnected and not causing any issues?
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Post by debbieb on Apr 9, 2014 8:20:36 GMT -6
Success! Now that I understand the piston versus brake light switch, I was able to adjust the set screw so that the brake light button stays compressed which turns off the brake light (axx backwards in my book) and removes play in the lever. Works perfectly now. Thanks, all, for your help.
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Post by debbieb on Apr 6, 2014 7:12:42 GMT -6
I put it all back together so we could ride it some and didn't think about checking that buttons operation (since I thought the gold button was the lights). Trying to understand how the white button & piston button work....
If the white button is for the brake lights, why, on the right side, is the brake light coming on only when the set screw on the lever contacts the gold button (piston?).
And, based on the position of the white button (it's located at the front/forward side side of the lever), does that mean the button is always compressed and when the lever is pulled backwards, the button is released and that causes brake light to come on? It seems most buttons activate when depressed, and this would be the opposite of that. Thanks.
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Post by debbieb on Apr 5, 2014 9:18:42 GMT -6
It's not behind the gold button, it's in a different place, so how can that be? Is this picture better?
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Post by debbieb on Apr 5, 2014 9:02:52 GMT -6
On the front side of both brake cylinders, is a plug with a white button that has 2 electrical wires connected to it. If the brake light is controlled by the gold plated button, what is this thingie with the white button?
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Post by debbieb on Apr 3, 2014 19:18:06 GMT -6
Thanks. I backed off the stop/set screw so that it does not contact the gold button. The handle is loose and may contact the button just during regular riding due to vibration (causing the brake light to come on). But at least I can control it somewhat. I like the idea of just disconnecting the right side and relying on the left brake for the brake light. I still don't think there is an inner button in the middle of the gold plate. I know it really looks that way in the pics of the right brake, but I've scratches around on that gold plate and it seems solid. I don't have a good pic of the left brake, but on that button, it's fairly evident there is no inner button. I searched around the internet for parts and cannot find a setup that looks like mine. But I did find a master cylinder that is as close as I've seen as it has a solid gold plate, no button. What do you think?
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Post by debbieb on Apr 3, 2014 10:46:24 GMT -6
PS. More pics. Where can I get the correct switch? I see ones on Ebay that are 2 prong plug in, but they don't seem to have the gold button like mine. Do I need to replace the whole unit (with the brake booster)? Can't tell if its one piece.
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Post by debbieb on Apr 3, 2014 10:01:42 GMT -6
The left brake works correctly (new one). The right side is the problem. I can't see the button (lever's in the way), but it looks like a solid gold plate. I don't really see a button in the middle of the plate. I sprayed WD in there, no change. If the lever is pushed forward and the pin on the lever responsible for pushing in the gold button is NOT contacting the button at all, then the light goes out. But if you hold the lever at all and it contacts the gold button, even without pressing it in, the light comes on. Question... should the pin on the lever be able to be in contact with the gold button at all times and the brake light come on only when it's compressed? Should the pin on the lever be extended so there is no play in the lever and be able to remain in contact with the switch? Presuming my best bet is to change out the switch, can someone tell me the procedure? Right now, I've just taken off the front cowl, but how much needs to come apart to change the switch? Couldn't get good pics without taking more apart, but I attached the pics to this post. Can't figure out how to "add image" Attachments:
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Post by debbieb on Apr 2, 2014 21:14:18 GMT -6
tvnacman... so sorry. you may have misunderstood. My "duh" comment was directed at us/ourselves, not for those offering help in this forum. I said "duh" because we (my husband and I) were so stupid not to know about needing to hold the brake lever to start it. We have no manual and no experience with these things. We bought it used and have driven it several times and never noticed that we must have been holding the brake lever all the other times. This one time we didn't. Had I not done some internet research, I might never have figured that one out. Funny... no question about the loose nut behind the wheel. My apologies if we offended anyone.
All that being said, I think it is the brake light that is staying on because the tail light is really bright and there is no difference in the intensity when we apply the brake, so we're thinking it is the brake light stuck and not the running lights.
Love this scooter, just don't want to be rear ended because the brake light is malfunctioning.
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Post by debbieb on Apr 2, 2014 18:29:40 GMT -6
Duh. This is a new scooter for us and we haven't driven it in a while. Didn't realize you need to hold the left brake in order to start. Thank goodness for the internet. Starts fine now that we know that. NEW PROBLEM, though. Brake light stays on even though switch was replaced. If we hold right brake handle up (NOT out/disengaged, but literally up) the brake light goes out. So what is the problem?
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Post by debbieb on Apr 2, 2014 6:31:09 GMT -6
Started fine and ran great. Brake light was staying on so brake switch and grips were replaced. Now electric start doesn't work. What can I check? Gauges come when key turned. Lights and turn signals work. Just no response from electric start switch.
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