New Student
Currently Offline
Posts: 4 
A+'s: 0
Joined: Oct 28, 2013 23:57:13 GMT -6
|
Post by ihiryu on Dec 15, 2013 21:00:15 GMT -6
Hey guys, I got a new 12 inch front wheel for my ruckus clone. I wasn't able to get the bearing out of my old one, and I couldn't get the sleeve out either (there's a sleeve in there that the bolt slides through). I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get the new bearings, sleeve, and seals.
|
|
New Student
Currently Offline
Posts: 4
A+'s: 0
Joined: Oct 28, 2013 23:57:13 GMT -6
|
Post by ihiryu on Nov 4, 2013 10:23:07 GMT -6
I would like say thanks for all the help.
I ordered a new rectifier, wired it up, and tapped into the ignition switch. Installed a new turn signal flasher, and tail light, and everything is good as new! I'm very grateful for all the help!
|
|
New Student
Currently Offline
Posts: 4
A+'s: 0
Joined: Oct 28, 2013 23:57:13 GMT -6
|
Post by ihiryu on Oct 29, 2013 10:53:52 GMT -6
Hey JR, thanks for the reply. Should I check the stator while it's running or when it's off? Burning up the rectifier is not a big deal to me, but the stator is. Taking off the flywheel is such a PITA. I even have the tool to do it. Also on the yellow wires, should I leave them connected or disconnected??
Here's what I've checked thus far.
I checked the head light first, I've took off the relay for it and checked it. Everything to the relay is good (power, grounds, and the "signal") is all there, so I jumped the power to the one for the light and voila, we've got head light!
I went to tail light (aftermarket LED), and went through each one manually. If I jump power to each one individually, they'll come on (so turn signals, and part of the brake lights). So more or less the tail light is bad, as only part of the LED's come on. When I jump the rear ones, the fronts come on as well. So I imagine they are on the same circuit.
I checked on the switch side of it, and it seems okay, if I click it left, I have continuity on that portion of the switch and the center pin (which I believe is ground?). I don't even know how to check the hazards, but I really don't care since I've never used them.
So pretty much what I think is bad is; turn signal flashers, and gauges (turn signal and high beam indicator, and gas level).
What I know is bad; tail lights, and relay for head light.
Lesson learned, at least this stuff isn't too expensive.
|
|
New Student
Currently Offline
Posts: 4
A+'s: 0
Joined: Oct 28, 2013 23:57:13 GMT -6
|
Post by ihiryu on Oct 29, 2013 0:11:58 GMT -6
Well, like many, I joined for some help.
I have a 2011 Dong Fang MP1, which is a Honda Ruckus Clone with a 150cc GY6. I upgraded the headlights and tail lights with LED units. And this has been fine for months. I recently installed an eleven pole stator and rectifier and my problems began.
My clone originally had a 8 pole stator with matching rectifier, the rectifier was a 5 pin unit. However, the eleven pole setup has a seven pin regulator.
I wired the three yellows from the stator to the three yellows on the rectifier. I put red to the battery + terminal. There was a red/white tracer in a bullet connector that I put to the autochoke. The only two wires left were a green and black. I tied the green and black together and put it to ground. I followed a diagram I found from BDX Buggies, but instead of having two greens, I had a green and black, but I just assumed that green and black were both ground.
Everything was fine, and it was charging 14 volts at the battery. Rode it for a few minutes and everything seemed fine. I parked it, and today I tried to ride it and it blew the 10 amp fuse. I put another fuse in and it was fine. I rode it down the street and it blew the fuse again. I was driving to an autoparts store to get more fuses, but I left it running when I was inside. I rode back to my place, and took it all apart.
The fuse melted on one side and blown. I replaced it and checked for power on both ends (which there is), electric start and horn still work, however; head lights, taillights, turn signals, brake lights, hazards no longer work, gauges also no longer work either. I was only able to check so much without knowing where everything went. I don't know what's actually going on really.
When it's running I'm getting 16v (strangely it still runs). I believe this is overcharging, but the other day it was at 14v, however, I also checked in two different places. I checked at the starter solenoid when I first got it running, and today I checked at the wires going to the battery positive, and grounded at the chassis. I didn't check at the battery since I was frustrated. I checked for grounds, and they were all good and secured.
I've been going over the rectifier wiring, and it seems all right, when I remove the green wire, it stops charging, and when I reground it, it goes back to 16v. I've looked at a few other diagrams, and it SEEMS black actually goes to 12+ Ignition, not ground....it's so silly everything I've worked on prior to this black is ground, but I guess it's my own fault for assuming things.
However even if black is 12+ IGN, I could simulate it by attaching it to battery power after it runs, but that still doesn't solve the whole not having power anywhere else problem. Well I don't think anyway.
|
|
