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Post by erinsdad on Oct 10, 2013 12:59:32 GMT -6
sorry, headlights in the ON position
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Post by erinsdad on Oct 10, 2013 12:56:01 GMT -6
Hey guys!! Wonderful weather outside! Just wish I was out there in it.My scooter is still not working properly, but when it gets cold, I'll bring it in & do the work inside. Not much has changed since I last posted. Most electrics are still failed. What IS working is the rear tail light, turn signals. Kill switch & the
red from the key switch, Black from the key switch NOT working, even jumping it as you suggested.
I've ordered a new key switch,hopefully that won't be much of a problem.
Just one more thing if you please.
When I bought this scooter approx. 3 yrs ago, God!! Was I a newbie!!! Anyway, I was poring over the Internet for anything I could find about my scooter- NOT MUCH! It was running in favor of headlights be on only when motor is running. For the last 6-8 months, it's been running just the opposite. Motor not running, headlight works with key in off position, and rear taillight identical to the headlight. Any thoughs??
Many thanks!!!!!
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Post by erinsdad on Oct 8, 2013 19:18:13 GMT -6
Hello John,
I got the ground from the battery, the frame and from the individual items as I was testing. I think the best was probably from the battery.
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Post by erinsdad on Oct 8, 2013 16:46:28 GMT -6
Hey everyone!! I hope your day rolled along much better than mine did!! I have a little problem with my scooter thought you could help. JR once helped me track down some problems. Thanks! JR. Anyway... here's the problems (s). It started about a week ago. Something totally random would crop up & fail on me. Then yesterday, everything shut down, came back up then shut down again. Did this 3 times. Then, it just went down. So, I walked it over under a shade tree & started in with my multimeter. What I soon found out is that everything had really good continuity. No scratches or dings in the wires except those I already fixed. It was the voltage. I am not getting voltage through the black wires only. With my scoot black wires are the power wires. Every other wire was working fine. This is where I remember that article JR hooked me up with. He said to always start at the key switch & work your way back. I tell ya, today has been too rough on my back and my eyes. I checked everything. With out the keys, with the keys turned to on, and with the motor running, believe it or not! So the verdict for today is that the black wires still don't work. I was VERY surprised that the motor would even start. Only problem the is you cannot shut it down with the key or anything else, except the kill switch. I just made one, came really handy today! I had an extra unused light switch on the hand grip. OH!!! one more thing!! I did get it to work once, I hooked up my battery to a few black wires & everything magically started working again until I shut it down.
So, if anyone has some answers for me please let me know!! A Minnesota winter is just around the corner! I'd like to ride a few more days!!
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Post by erinsdad on Sept 20, 2013 20:23:36 GMT -6
Hello all!
I'm looking to solve a problem with turn signal relays. Hope someone can help. /on my scoot, there has always been a 3 prong relay. Now, I've gone through 3 new 3 prong relays
all from auto parts stores. They will then tell me that the right one is not in their data base on the register. They will sometimes laugh at me when I say "scooter". There are no scoot shops near me. And the one that is nearby, they are very snooty and rarely have anything in stock. I then tried a 2 prong relay, and it flashes way too fast. It"s almost a blur.( I know, at least It's flashing right??) Any thoughts or explanations?? Does anyone know what the correct flasher is? It's a Tank 49cc. Thanks for any help you can offer.
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Post by erinsdad on Sept 9, 2013 18:52:23 GMT -6
I have a question that has been on my mind since early summer when I put in all the performance products I could find. OK now, the scoot is a 49cc Tank. If my top speed on flat road is 40 MPH and at that point (40) my throttle turnage is half way, my logic tells me that the rest of the throttle turnage will dump more gas into the system, causing the engine to run faster, thus providing more power or speed. But we all know that doesn't work that way. Sooooo, if that extra throttle twist IS dumping more fuel in, were does the excess gas go if not to more power & speed??? Thrown out to the ground? Evaporated? Or I need a throttle explained to me in terms I can understand!!
Thanks for your time everyone!
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Post by erinsdad on Sept 7, 2013 12:48:20 GMT -6
[replyingto=erinsdad]erinsdad[/replyingto]Well, this morning I decided to get busy. I removed the necessary plastic and started the very tedious job of checking continuity then voltage on anything I could find. Didn't find a darn thing! So by this time, the mail carrier was just delivering mail. Wouldn't you know it, there was a new brake switch in my mailbox! I checked everything over again then plugged the switch in. With one hand on the key, I pulled in the lever & shut it down real quick. Nothing burned up!! I then started it & crossed my fingers... everything is now as it should be! Lever, switch, brake light, connections. But that's just the left hand switch. Thanks for your help!!
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Post by erinsdad on Sept 7, 2013 5:20:41 GMT -6
Hi there!!
I'm wondering if someone can help me out here before I throw this scoot in the dumpster outside!! I have a Tank Urban Classic 50.
I have done some rewiring over the summer and am pretty proud that most things are running great now.
Here's my problem, I have been going through brake light switches at an alarming rate. 6 or 7 this summer so far! I'm thinking about buying them in bulk. I have a few wiring diagrams, but none are for Tank scoots. I get 12 v on the power side of each & ground seems to be good.I don't go anywhere without a multimeter and everything else seems good as well. My starter does work the way it's supposed to when the switches are working. Starter hasn't work properly since I bought the thing new!
Help me Obi-Wan-Kenobi !!
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by: erinsdad - Aug 27, 2013 9:29:31 GMT -6
Post by erinsdad on Aug 27, 2013 9:29:31 GMT -6
[replyingto=erinsdad]erinsdad[/replyingto]Forgot to mention, the main brake switch wire, green/yellow, comes in and splits into 2 (just soldered together) and then the one goes back directly to the starter solenoid along with the red/yellow starter wire.
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by: erinsdad - Aug 27, 2013 9:19:17 GMT -6
Post by erinsdad on Aug 27, 2013 9:19:17 GMT -6
[replyingto=admin]JR[/replyingto]Thanks!! This really helps a lot!! Now, a couple things that confuse me.
First, I think my initial & ongoing problem was that I didn't get the switched and unswitched situation. Now I do. Which is prob why I've burned out so many switches so far! Also, there is only one full bullet connector there,on the black/white wire from the key switch, there is also the two male bullets on the one brake switch. The other switch is part of a new right hand starter switch/brake assembly which has the Molex type connectors identical to the stock connectors. I've got plenty of these I can use. Free wires consist of 3 black, 2 green/yellow, 1 green/ground. Thanks again for you help!
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Post by erinsdad on Aug 26, 2013 21:58:08 GMT -6
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by: erinsdad - Aug 26, 2013 19:32:23 GMT -6
Post by erinsdad on Aug 26, 2013 19:32:23 GMT -6
The switches themselves are Green/Yellow & Black. The green looks like it normally does, not Light Green. I haven't had a working starter since about 2 months after I bought it. I now know that even though I don't have the kickstand switch, I do need to depress a brake handle in order to start it. All this time I didn't know that!! That's why the Green/Yellow and the Red/ Yellow (starter) wires go to the starter solenoid. I took it to a guy & he overrode that starter wire & hotwired it in such a way that it still needed a key to start. Hopefully, after I'm done in a couple days, this will be fixed as well.
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by: erinsdad - Aug 26, 2013 18:51:24 GMT -6
Post by erinsdad on Aug 26, 2013 18:51:24 GMT -6
[replyingto=tvnacman]tvnacman[/replyingto]Hey John thanks for the reply. Well, the switches have 2 wires each. The Tank diagram shows the right side switch as having Green, Green/Yellow. The left side having Black, Green Yellow. I saw a few on the internet with this same configuration. Of course the Green/Yellow go into the tail light as one, and the other Green and Black go their own separate ways. Black being hot, and green being ground.
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by: erinsdad - Aug 26, 2013 16:45:09 GMT -6
Post by erinsdad on Aug 26, 2013 16:45:09 GMT -6
well, I've been here enough times, it was time I joined up!! I live in Minnesota, so we have a short riding season. I have a young adult daughter Erin, a small Mexican Chihuahua dog named Sofia, and a 2008 Tank Urban Classic 49cc scooter. I've included a picture of my daughter riding my scooter! I bought the scooter brand new. There was a guy who bought a couple of truckloads & was selling them dirt cheap from a disused car lot. How cheap you may ask? Under $500.!! Now, I find out maybe it wasn't such a good deal after all. The electrical wiring part. I got "under the hood" with some performance upgrades, and that's when I found the problems. I said to myself "Man, the last guy to have this scooter REALLY screwed things up royally!!" Then I realized that I'M the first & only guy to have it!! I've heard stories of Chinese workers being drunk all day or just not caring. So, I've been repairing wiring for 2 months, with just an electric shop class in high school 50 yrs. ago and 3 wiring diagrams that were not made for Tank scooters. I'm at the end now with just the brake light switches and a right side handlebar assembly left to go. Which brings me to a little but important piece of info. I need. I finally found a Tank wiring diagram, but it's not for my model. The Tank diagram shows the brake lights being a 3 wire system. Green, Black, Green/yellow. Another diagram, & a modified Tank diagram from your archives. show that it's a two wire system, Black, Green/Yellow. During my Web research, I found about 1/3 of the bikes going for a 3 wire system, and all the rest are 2 wires. I've already wasted a pair of switches & don't want a repeat. If anyone can offer up any support for this dilemma, please let me know??? Thank you!! and I feel much better about reading your postings now that I'm a member!! Attachments:
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