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Post by davidstipek on Aug 28, 2013 3:02:00 GMT -6
[replyingto=davidstipek]davidstipek[/replyingto] Does no open have any ideas on this subject? I need to know the best way to.... 1: increase AC Voltage available 2: Or Amps output 3: If I can wrap coil base as 3 x 50' coils a: If common end coils (all 3) in grounded If I can do #3 then I can use 7 wire R/R... John you mentioned this Rectifier... Can I do the 3 coil wrap?? David Attachments:
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Post by davidstipek on Aug 26, 2013 11:28:23 GMT -6
[replyingto=davidstipek]davidstipek[/replyingto]Ahh... I was wrong I see the 7 wires dual Ground and power leads, Makes 7! Now seperate question from the others but along same lines... 1: Could I wrap coils same as 650 does? 2: Tieing all 3 coils together at one end and the other ends to each of the 3 yellow leads from R/R? I can do 3 coils of 20ga no problem. Last question 3: Is the common end to all 3 coils Grounded? or is it floated? This may well be the solution I need. Depends if I can do all 3 coils on same frame. (Actually, Yamaha 's Y80 Belle did this. But they did it side by side not layered as Suzuki (Crystal) did with original wrap on RC110) Attachments:
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Post by davidstipek on Aug 25, 2013 12:11:14 GMT -6
???Okay Here you go... My Modified Suzuki Crystal RC11oY Electric start  NSR150 Honda rear end  Thailand 120 Baht @ 31=1 USD seat go figure  Honda Phantom Tank My Custom Frame ;D With final gears 16/35 can see 140 KPH in 3rd, 4th an overdrive.. 19T/20T have seen 120 KPH Bike has 18" rubber front and rear. Applied big tube 125cc 2T exhaust opens Bike up ;D I have 2 tubes for Can, 1 is stock with holes in tube an plate 1/2 way up. The other is a solid tube with 1 hole 3/16" in side at tuned point. Louder than stock up crisper too. Level noise is still reasonable. Better performance! But the wife likes the stock one Attachments:
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Post by davidstipek on Aug 25, 2013 11:11:00 GMT -6
[replyingto=davidstipek]davidstipek[/replyingto]Guys In the attach diagram you will see stator and rectifier diagram. Question if Voltage on yellow leads is 12VAC, then is the common end to all coils...Grounded? If not, would they not create DCV? Reason I am asking as maybe wrapping Coil frame this way will give me the voltage I need... What you all think? This is still just a 5 wire R/R what is the 7 wire tvnacman is talking about? David Attachments:
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Post by davidstipek on Aug 25, 2013 11:03:22 GMT -6
[replyingto=justbuggin2]justbuggin2[/replyingto]Yes
I agree!
But if I already have DCV then I can add two diodes to keep backflow Voltage from Stator and add regulator to red (battery/Ignition switch) lead?
David
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Post by davidstipek on Aug 25, 2013 10:45:07 GMT -6
John Another thought... If I wrapped coil base with the idea of ignoring ground and did my first coil starting with yellow lead, then at 50' attached 2nd yellow lead and started 2nd coil (again a 50' wra  and at end attached 3rd yellow lead... Could I not use the rectifier/regulator you are refering to? Hmm this is... Forget it this won't work1. yellow 2. yellow 3. yellow All 3 coils need to connect together @ one end and other be connected to yellow lead!4. red - same 5. white - same 6. earth David John So... I would wrap 3 coils on same frame tieing all ends (at one end ) together then doing my 40-50' wraps and tie @ open ends to each coil with one yellow lead... I looked @ a 650 Suzuki and it used a 5 wire rectifier/regulator:3 yellows - Charging Coil @ Stator red - Ignition switch/Battery (I would tie red and white togther at this point Black/white stripe - ground Harness/Battery/frame What resistance do you have between yellow leads? This would tell me how long to make each. Also what gauge wire do you think is wrapped on coils? If I could use 3 wraps of 40' each, and 18ga wire, I believe I can get all on coil base. Would I need to wrap end of each coil with mylar? I am using coated wire (joking) What I would like to see is 13-14VDC @ low (500 - 1000 rpm). Right now I have below 12VDC and @ city speeds does not charge Battery fast enough. If I disconnect Battery with bike running it does show same Voltage... Bike will continue to run, so it is creating power, I believe the CDI needs to see close to 12VDC to fire engine... correct? David |
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Post by davidstipek on Aug 25, 2013 10:11:01 GMT -6
[replyingto=tvnacman]tvnacman[/replyingto]John Another thought... If I wrapped coil base with the idea of ignoring ground and did my first coil starting with yellow lead, then at 50' attached 2nd yellow lead and started 2nd coil (again a 50' wra and at end attached 3rd yellow lead... Could I not use the rectifier/regulator you are refering to? Hmm... Forget it this won't work!1. yellow 2. yellow 3. yellow All 3 coils need to connect at one end and the other needs to attach to 1 of the 3 Yellow leads!4. red - same Tie together (Battery/Fuse) 5. white - same Tie together (Ignition switch) 6. earth What is 7 pins? David |
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Post by davidstipek on Aug 25, 2013 9:48:22 GMT -6
John
check and see what voltage you have @ yellow and white/red stripe leads from Stator... This is where my issue lays. I am not developing over 12VAC.
This was why I had chosen to rewrap both coils on charging/light coil. Maybe even go to 18ga wire as I have plenty of room. I had wrapped wire on coil before I removed old to see how much more could be added... was 45'! I know this is 20ga but still I could it seems make both coils 50' with room to spare...
Again back to you John... I have posted a picture of my complete Stator plate and Coils... is your like this? or is it in Star pattern? with multiple charge/lighting coils and one ignition coil... Can I install.. or is there a conversion to replace my stator with the star shapped one? Remember my flywheel cover has fan wheel attached to blow air thru head and cylinder wall to induct cooling, thus engine is called "Jet cooled"
David
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Post by davidstipek on Aug 25, 2013 1:25:19 GMT -6
I (8)  wish I could store up this and wire it to a mat so when Salesman rings bell... ;p They get Their Bell Rung! o)) |
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Post by davidstipek on Aug 25, 2013 1:21:07 GMT -6
I cannot put 11 pole system in place of original stator. No roomCorrect me if I am wrong.The reason for Rectifier is to convert 12VAC to 12VDC, Right? If I float coil and remove ground I have done this... (What is rectifier going to do... convert DC Voltage back to AC Voltage?) I know I will need a Regultor to dump excess Voltage.As far as Battery, I bought the Biggest and suppose to be quickest recovery that is available here. My issue seems to be that the charging voltage is below what is required to fully maintain Battery, or even Original acid 5Ma Battery. It seems that at 3500-4000 rpm I get the max @ 12.4V. I cannot keep RPM at this rate I will go broke replentishing fuel... I have attached a picture of complete Statr as I removed it, before I unwrapped Charge/light coils. Ignition coil is perfect! will not touch it! Somewhere around 40,000 V being created here as touching can attest too ( Knocked me on my Ass! Big Time!!) David Attachments:
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Post by davidstipek on Aug 24, 2013 12:25:04 GMT -6
Okay... The Custom Framed Suzuki RC110Y Electric Start Chopper is here I used NSR150 Honda Complete rear fork assembly/wheel/disc brake... (Nice Suspension Ride... ;D) I still have to change front fork assembly to use NSR's here also. Will do 3 things. 1: Raise front 5 - 6" even going from 18" wheel to 17". 2: Give me Disc brakes here too! 3: Add a matching wheel if front to rear one I have one small issue it seems that in the city rides the Battery will not charge. Thus after a few starts using Starter... Thank God for the Kick... ;D I know the RPM's are not quite high enough to do this quickly. Battery is new Gel 5Ma as specifyed for Electric start in Manual, Starter is new also because... I was being overly cautious Thus I have (I think...) a solution.I have a complete Spare Stator Plate and coils. Ignition coil is good (new) Lighting/Charge coil is defective... so... I was going to do a rewrap on it. (have done before)Charging, white/red lead is connected to a 23' coil, other end is connected to Yellow lead Lighting, plus the other coil. This coil (lighting) is 40.5' and connected ground connection at other end. Now I can do this 3 ways:1st: I can rewrap as originally done. lighting coil 40.5' then because I have the room extend or make charging coil same length (40.5'). This will either increase Voltage or Wattage.. Not sure which but I believe it will do it at a lower RPM. 2nd: I can wrap the same as above, but increase coil wire from 20ga to 18ga. 3rd: I can float the coil and remove ground. make total length of coil wrap 80 - 100' and change output to 12VDC. My questions start here..1. Will this eliminate the Rectifier? 2. Will I need to add a diode in white/red lead and yellow lead's? 3. I will connect white/red to Red fused lead to battery and yellow to white lead? (These were the reaining wires on rectifier. 4. I need to add a regulator in Red lead before fuse and Battery, correct? draw me a simple diagram  I am not sure what increasing coil size and floating coil will do @ same time... other then completely eliminate 12VAC on bike Right now the only place 12VAC is going is to Rectifier. Everything else is wired 12VDC. David Attachments:
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Post by davidstipek on Aug 8, 2013 2:16:05 GMT -6
[replyingto=admin]JR[/replyingto]Jr I understand your post, and the wiring diagram. here is a copy of Suzuki Crystals Ciol/CDI (internal) wiring. Maybe this will not make any difference... Maybe I need to use a newer CDI. One that has a tach outlet dedicated to the tach only David (file I tried to send you is between 2025 and 2075... to large so I did a clip and save of item of interest) Attachments:
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Post by davidstipek on Aug 7, 2013 4:29:30 GMT -6
JR Thanks, I have seen those, the first is a Suzuki 110 4 cycle with oil filter. Ratos are not close (as I will explain) 2nd is probably okay for basic service but again for a 4 cycle engine... I went to large Motorcycle Parts House here in Chiang Mai, I sked if they had a Suzuki Crystal RC110CM Parts Manual they had a RC110D (Crystal). Together we searched the parts until we found pages with gearing this is what I came away with... Primary Gear, Drive: NT20, Driven: NT65 Transmission 1st Drive: ? Driven: NT33 2nd Drive: NT14 Driven:? 3rd Drive: NT21 Driven: NT24 4th Drive: NT20 Driven: NT19 also these to gear related items: Driveshaft: NT24, also Countershaft: NT10 I am not sure which pertains to 1st or 2nd gear as Drive or Driven gears, but these two seem to fill void as to missing information. As you can see these are not even close to Informtion in Manual for 4 Cycle 110cc engine you sent me. (Ihad that ifo before and tried to use... seemed to make engine sluggish as I had placed my final gearing way off... I also found that final gearing is 14T/35T ..... I had tried to set up 16T/37T.... didn't work. Thanks for trying... David JR I went to Parts Supplier and found they had most Manuals for Parts Varifications. Here I got all Ratios and NT on all gears and Sprockets. So I just wanted to thank you for your responce, even though it didn't help, Service Manual did! Now I have further question. Since this engine does not have an option for cable tach connection. How do I wire in a Electronic Tach. I have one that has 3 wire connections: Black/Orange Stripe Yellow/Green Stripe and a Ground Coil has internal CDI it has 3 wire connections: Input: Black/White Black/Red Can't seem to be able to attach two files... David [/quote] Attachments:
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Post by davidstipek on Aug 7, 2013 3:46:07 GMT -6
[replyingto=swiftaction361]swiftaction361[/replyingto]Hi First off... How do you attach Pictures??? I see the insert Image above but I cannot do...  ?? ![]() [/img] This is David from Chiang Mai, Thailand. The attached picture is of my 1995 Suzuki Crystal (RC110Y). The only thing left stock is the engine... Examples: Rear Fork - Complete assembly is from Honda NSR150. This is everything from piviot bolt to Shock. This option gave me the needed boost of rear disc brakes. Frame - Custom made with DOM Tubing. Other Parts Manufacturers Foot rests and shift lever/linkage. Rear brake pedal, Brake Switch Honda. Tank, Honda Phantom. Front fork, Gauge pack (except Electronic Tach) are Honda. Front Brake and cables, Seat, Frame Head Post are Yamaha. Harness is Suzuki Crystal Brake/Tail light - Miller (50 year old from my 1st Bicycle) refitted with LED lights. 1 center is rear running light, surrounded by 5 more in star pattern for brake lights. Headlight - Same Miller Bicycle refitted with Suzuki 12VDC bulb and socket Kill Switch/Starter Switch - aftermarket Right and Left Hand switches are Honda Dream. so mirrors fit and all light, turn signals are at left hand. Mirrors from Big Bike Honda. Exhaust is from Suzuki 150cc, this gave me extended midrange and top end speed, also with change in final Gear Ratio... It cleaned up Exhaust Emmissions to an approved 92%. This amazed the Inspection Team as they checked complete operation to enable being Titled and Licensed for Legal Street use. David #X24# |
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Post by davidstipek on Jul 23, 2013 3:01:40 GMT -6
JR
Thanks, I have seen those, the first is a Suzuki 110 4 cycle with oil filter. Ratos are not close (as I will explain) 2nd is probably okay for basic service but again for a 4 cycle engine...
I went to large Motorcycle Parts House here in Chiang Mai, I sked if they had a Suzuki Crystal RC110CM Parts Manual they had a RC110D (Crystal). Together we searched the parts until we found pages with gearing this is what I came away with...
Primary Gear, Drive: NT20, Driven: NT65
Transmission
1st Drive: ?
Driven: NT33
2nd Drive: NT14
Driven:?
3rd Drive: NT21
Driven: NT24
4th Drive: NT20
Driven: NT19
also these to gear related items: Driveshaft: NT24, also Countershaft: NT10
I am not sure which pertains to 1st or 2nd gear as Drive or Driven gears, but these two seem to fill void as to missing information.
As you can see these are not even close to Informtion in Manual for 4 Cycle 110cc engine you sent me. (Ihad that ifo before and tried to use... seemed to make engine sluggish as I had placed my final gearing way off...
I also found that final gearing is 14T/35T ..... I had tried to set up 16T/37T.... didn't work.
Thanks for trying...
David
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