Hi, from Kissimmee, Fl..... By 1flipflop (Read 2,515 times)

[1flipflop]

Ok ive got the starting bypassed and i havent connected the CDI is only the black/red wire plus i pulled off the pickup to see that only the blue/yellow stripe is connected to it the white and yellow 2 wires go to behind stator [img src="i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t448/rrrtee1flipflop/IMG_04821_zpsf5hbfufj.jpg" src="" alt=" "] [img src="i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t448/rrrtee1flipflop/IMG_04811_zpskpnszagq.jpg" src="" alt=" "] this pic the CDI wires are on top battery the front of scoot is right and rear is left The Black/red stripe goes to brake switches.

[JR]

The blue yellow goes to the CDI and is the pulse coil, tells the CDI when to fire. The white and yellow wires go to the R/R and deals with the charging/light circuit, have nothing to do with the engine running at all.

So, is this all the wires coming out of the engine at the stator area? If so then again it's a DC system, do you have any other wires coming out of the stator area?

Also did you turn the key on and see if the black wire had any voltage on it? Lastly I don't see a black larger wire negative battery cable from the battery to the frame, hooked up?

JR

[1flipflop]

Mar 23, 2015 20:32:13 GMT -6 JR said:

The blue yellow goes to the CDI and is the pulse coil=check, tells the CDI when to fire. The white and yellow wires go to the R/R and deals with the charging/light circuit, have nothing to do with the engine running at all. check and Thank You I have traced each wire to make sure they connect proper designation
So, is this all the wires coming out of the engine at the stator area? =Yes 3 wires If so then again it's a DC system, do you have any other wires coming out of the stator area? No

Also did you turn the key on and see if the black wire had any voltage on it? No the key switch was vandalized and frozen would not turn, connected the R/wire is factory spliced before connecting one end is for key switch the other goes to R/R the one for key switch had no connector was twisted together with a black wire and I slipped into the connector end for the CDI power feed BK/R wire and bingo, Spark was now available, turned over the engine with 1.7 yr. old gas and choked it with hand over inlet and it sputtered to life, when I knew it would start now I removed gas tank and sour gas and replaced w. new NGK sparkplug and 93octane it started right up and idles nice and slow too. Lastly I don't see a black larger wire negative battery cable from the battery to the frame, hooked up? Very good eye you have there now that you mention that the battery NEG. wire is green and it runs to frame maybe need one ground to engine from battery NEG.- is supposed to have 2 green battery wires there at battery so I may connect another wire to the engine?? Thank you very much for that as the scooter starts and runs, perfect idle but when I gas it wanting to bog out now when warmed up starts very good though I don't have power to the bystarter yet maybe that would be where im getting bog. So good news today....Next going to see about getting title and registration, if I can get it registered then will continue to make the scoot more street worthy 

JR

[1flipflop]

Jun 25, 2014 12:36:52 GMT -6 alleyoop said:

The GREENs are grounds,CHECK
The RED is your POWER wire 12volts coming from the battery which should have a fuse on it CHECK and BIG Thank You for you reply..that red wire goes up to that R/R I untaped the harness from battery to handlebars to see whats going on and the red was factory spliced to go to R/R and key switch so I slipped the keyswitch end into connector to the BK/R wire coming from the CDI to give it power and was giving power to the CDI plug I disconnected battery NEG- plug in CDI hit the starter and it belched to life with 1.7 yr. old gas in it. I commenced to remove and clean gas tank of sour gas also drain the carb bowl and replaced with new NGK sparkplug+93octane and it immediately started right up. For now to turn it off i just pull the RED power wire from the connector to cut the juice and to CDI....near the battery.
the BLACK is what feeds EVERYTHING ELSE when you turn the KEY ON
The BLACK&WHITE is the KILL WIRE it grounds out the CDI to kill the motor when you turn the KEY OFF.
Alleyoop  And Thank you Alleyoop for the insight, Hopefully I will get to register this scoot soon too.

[1flipflop]

Just wanted to ask since I don't have bystarter hooked up would that not let the engine to make power$ The engine bogs when I twist the throttle but stays running. Also is it good idea to run battery negative wire to engine?? including the one to frame , meaning 1 wire to frame and a separate wire to engine. I know there is supposed to be another negative wire that connects to battery but not sure where supposed to connect that one.

[1flipflop]

 First time posting a VID 

[JR]

Mar 24, 2015 14:28:35 GMT -6 1flipflop said:

Just wanted to ask since I don't have bystarter hooked up would that not let the engine to make power$ The engine bogs when I twist the throttle but stays running. Also is it good idea to run battery negative wire to engine?? including the one to frame , meaning 1 wire to frame and a separate wire to engine. I know there is supposed to be another negative wire that connects to battery but not sure where supposed to connect that one.

Yes all grounds need to be tight and making good connection. Yes place a cable from battery to frame (black) and from frame to the engine, since it has no ground wire coming out of the stator the engine MUST be grounded to insure charging voltage.

Bogging equal dirty clogged carb, since it had old gas need to take it off and clean it up, good videos in the video tech section and then you'll need to adjust the F/M screw. Drain the oil and go ahead and adjust the valves, again good videos in the video tech section and also the main tech section.

Need to get a key switch.

JR

[1flipflop]

Mar 22, 2015 15:55:47 GMT -6 JR said:

If it came from the floor area by the battery then yes the red is fused and goes to the key switch<<yes and factory splice to R/R as well, the black will be hot from the key switch with the key on and if this is a DC type CDI then it supplies voltage to the CDI.<<<<<that is the what clued me in totally I was thinking to ground before I did try though,, I don't want try guess what I need to do and,, I came back in and read this thread from beginning again and ran across this reply it supplies voltage to the CDI,, I practically ran back out untaping harness from battery area leading to handlebars and saw the red feed wire to R/R was factory spliced and the splice goes to key switch which is missing that connector but anyhow very much appreciate you and your website and will follow your recommendation change oil and valve adjust  Let me look at a diagram.<<< Me too == now I see the black to CDI in diagram, you sir have help me a lot to understand the circuitry sometimes I swear I got to be 1 the luckiest people on this planet  

[1flipflop]

Mar 24, 2015 21:24:08 GMT -6 JR said:

Mar 24, 2015 14:28:35 GMT -6 1flipflop said:

Just wanted to ask since I don't have bystarter hooked up would that not let the engine to make power$ The engine bogs when I twist the throttle but stays running. Also is it good idea to run battery negative wire to engine?? including the one to frame , meaning 1 wire to frame and a separate wire to engine. I know there is supposed to be another negative wire that connects to battery but not sure where supposed to connect that one.

Yes all grounds need to be tight and making good connection. Yes place a cable from battery to frame (black) and from frame to the engine,<<<Has a ground from frame to starter housing  since it has no ground wire coming out of the stator the engine MUST be grounded to insure charging voltage. I am hoping the ground from frame to starter housing will do this ground will work on charging system for sure,..

Bogging equal dirty clogged carb, since it had old gas need to take it off and clean it up,<< I did remove carb and was spotless all jets removed and inspected also adjusted valves have same full throttle bog am wondering if its that diaphragm on top of carburetor it is soft and no holes but looks a little deformed and if I put my finger in intake while running I push that piston up and it seem to create power so I maybe need replace the diaphragm good videos in the video tech section and then you'll need to adjust the F/M screw.<<<no mixture screw on this carb Drain the oil and go ahead and adjust the valves,<<< set the valves according to service manual and going to readjust them tighter or less clearance is tapping sound now.again good videos in the video tech section and also the main tech section.

Need to get a key switch.

JR

[JR]

In most cases you'll find it cheaper and easier to just replace the carb, have seen them as low as $15.

JR