question - RR and yellow wire voltage regulation By godfeast (Read 5,306 times)

[godfeast]

I've been reworking my harness and reviewing quite a few schematics, but my understanding of electronics is still developing, so I have a quick question.


I see that testing the ac voltage on the yellow wire coming from the stator, that it is in the high 30's and from everything I read, would blow out any lights or such hooked directly to it.

I understand that the RR regulates the voltage down to an acceptable range for the electronics to work.

In my mind, to do that the yellow would feed through the RR and then come out on one of the other pins.

I'm confused that it's obviously not the case as schematics and wiring seems to show electronics hooking into the yellow line all along its length prior to hitting the RR.


Does this mean that somehow the RR regulates the yellow power line from the stator just by being plugged into it?

How does this work?

[alleyoop]

that is correct it gets the AC voltage from the stator and then the R/R regulates and converts it to dc to power you 12v accessories.
Alleyoop

[godfeast]

But how does it work ?

[alleyoop]

Get real BRO!! We can only tell you what it does, how it works we are NOT ELECTRICAL ENGINEERS and Electrical board makers. It has capicators, risistors and chips and what not on the board inside.
Besides what good would it do you to know what chip and dale are doing inside the box.

Alleyoop

[justbuggin2]

there are diodes in the R/R that block current flow in one direction and allow it to flow in the other that turns the ac voltage to dc voltage it will be a pulse on and off so there are compacitors that act like fast drain batteries to smooth out the pulse to a constant current there is a chip in it that regulates the amount of voltage that comes out

[alleyoop]

Dec 6, 2012 23:47:25 GMT -6 justbuggin2 said:

there is a chip in it that regulates the amount of voltage that comes out

What happened to DALE

[godfeast]

Didnt really expect hostility, and not sure where that came from...but I was hoping for a basic explanation from someone who would know, like JR or something, but the above helps a little.

TY for the post justbuggin2.

I'm downloading a bunch of ebooks on electronics and trying to figure this stuff out on my own as well - its just that everything I've delt with so far in electronics involves a + or - line going into something, getting altered, and then coming out a different line.

The fact that the RR has this yellow feed going into it and then somehow regulates the length of it without having to pass it through as another wire simply confuses me - the above doesnt make it 100% clear, but the post above gives me more to go on.

[wheezy]

Godfeast, which schematic are we talking about here? Rectifiers work only in an input/output setup. In short, it takes AC in, passes through some diodes and other things that convert the reverse polarity of AC into pulsed DC (the signal goes from a sine wave to loooking like the letter m). Then, the regualtor sends it through a capacitor network that reduces the curves at the top of the letter m, now more resembling a straight line.

I'd have to see what pic you're looking at, as R/R's can't affect any upstream signal.

[justbuggin2]

What happened to DALE [/quote]

diodes is dale nickname

[JR]

Ok guys here is a generic typical wiring diagram for a lot of GY-6 scooters and is a good pattern to go by Godfeast for yours especially for the lighting system. In this diagram the ground wire is black not green.



You'll see the same wiring scenerio you mentioned as the light circuit ties in between the stator and the R/R on the yellow AC feed wire from the stator.

What wheezy said is correct but here's what's going on. Remember when I told you that if you tested the stator voltage to see if it was putting out the correct AC on the yellow and white wires if you didn't pull the headlight bulbs you would blow them with the R/R unplugged if you revved the engine at all?

What happens is at idle the yellow wire is at about 14 to 15Vac and the bulbs along with the tail light bulbs will handle that low of AC current but without the load the R/R creates when plugged in if you rev the engine with the R/R unhooked you are running a now higher generated AC voltage of over 20Vac to the lights, and poof they blow.

The lights runs off of AC even though you use DC type bulbs on the scooter.

Simply put the R/R does exactly what Wheezy said but at the same time it also with the load it creates holds the AC side of the stator at a constant regulated AC voltage that will not blow out your head/tail light bulbs.

Also the more bulbs on this wire such as head, tail, instrument lights the more load it creates to hold the stator AC voltage down to an accepatable level to run the lights.

JR

[wheezy]

That makes sense, JR. So now, two questions.

A) what is that unlabelled square in the upper left?, and

B) the Y/G feeding the tail light is still 12vdc, correct?

[JR]

Dec 7, 2012 11:59:08 GMT -6 wheezy said:

That makes sense, JR. So now, two questions.

A) what is that unlabelled square in the upper left?, and

B) the Y/G feeding the tail light is still 12vdc, correct?

unlabeled square = turn signal flasher

Yes the Y/G wire = 12Vdc from brake handle switch to brake lights and stater relay = battery voltage.

Guys I've had this diagram for awhile been tweaking it on and off and it's one of the best diagrams you'll see for a ton of 50 and 150cc scooters and I'm going to be putting it in the wiring diagram section:






JR

[alleyoop]

Godfeast,
No hostility whatsoever, just telling it like it is and a little funning that is all. These people actually builds them here in the states , If you want to know specifics maybe they can answer your question and or questions.
.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/vregulators.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/vregulators.html
Alleyoop

[godfeast]

Ok, I assume I'll figure out the fundamentals of how that works once I start reading up, but it makes sense.

Slightly OT JR, but since you mentioned brake lights and the Y/G line - I tried to tie in a bulb that would light up when brakes were depressed (mostly because one of my handles sticks and I need to know when it happens), but simply putting a + end on Y/G and the negative on the other line cause it to be always on Unless brakes were applied and it went out.

Is this normal? Should I tie into the Y/G line and then a ground for that light?

TY btw for the explanation - I've been using several of your schematics as reference material during this rebuild; not sure if I'd have gotten far at all without those.

[JR]

Yes if you want a brake light indicator bulb that you can actually see going down the road then tie one line of the bulb to Y/G and the other to a ground, actually not a bad idea!

Also that link Alley posted makes great R/R's some of the guys here have had some made for their 250's cost more but better quality.

JR