Idle speed question By jburd (Read 2,685 times)

[jburd]

Alleyoop, does the fuel ratio screw turn by hand or do I need to get some pliers on it? I can't get it to turn clockwise or counterclockwise.

[richardthescooter3]

Intake should be.004 exhaust .005

[richardthescooter3]

jburd, the ratio screw should turn easy using a screw driver.

[jburd]

So I finally made some headway. I took the carburetor off and found that the black knob is actually a cover. I took a pair of pliers and wiggled it back and forth until it came off. Found the screw underneath. I put the carburetor back on and then turned the screw all the way in. As Alleyoop suggested I turned the screw 2 1/2 turns out and tried to start it. I did hear a difference but still wouldn't start. I kept turning it a half turn at a time until it started right up. It's running smooth and the idle speed is down to about 2000 which is where it should have been. I'm going to let it run for a few minutes until it gets warm to make sure the mix is right with it warmed up. Then it's time to put it all back together.

[jburd]

I believe I am finished. I got it put back together and took it for a spin. Seems to run really good. Thanks for all the great tips. This forum is awesome. Maybe soon I won't have to ask so many questions and I can help others instead. I'm hoping I finally have everything fixed for awhile and can now keep it on the road.

[richardthescooter3]

Congrats jburd, glad you got your scoot going remember that your scooter will always tell you whats wrong if you pay attention to the symptoms Hopefully those adjustments are all you have to do. Have fun and ride safe

[alleyoop]

FANTASTIC Jburd!! Good job, I am sorry forgot to mention that on most 250+ carbs they have a plastic cover on the Fuel Ratio Mixture Screw to try and not have the customer mess with the settings. They set them to run lean for THEIR WEATHER temperatures so they pass EPA EMISSIONS testing. Once over here they may run for a short period of time with those lean settings but with our weather tmep swings the Fuel Mixture has to be changed for the motor to run properly.
Alleyoop

[whid]

Wow.. the pros to the rescue again! Thank God for you guys! There would be a lot of parked scoots without your guidance!
I have a question that may fit in this thread... Is there a way to double check your Tach readout?
I believe mine to be way off. I seem to idle at 500 RPM and the wheel has a smooth slow revolution.
Without actually hooking up another tach, is there a method of sort you can try? I guess the mulitmeter doesn't have the RPM setting I need... lol

[alleyoop]

WOW!! 500 rpms holy macaronie That is barely turning over, just so you know the 50s-150s like to idle around 1500-1800 the 250s 1800-2000. If you could get a Video of it idleing that would be good I have a pretty good hear
But yea some of the tachs on the scoots are probably not very accurate and I have to say either are the tiny tachs you can buy. The only good measurement is to use a timing Light.

My Trike has a tach built in and Just for chuckles I bough a TAO TAO tiny tach which are really pretty good because they register right away while some of the other cheaper ones you see on
ebay the black ones are slow to register the rpms.

But anyway I hooked up the TAO TAO tiny tach and it registers 300-400 HIGHER than my built in tach at HIGHER RPMS. At idle it registers the same.
Alleyoop

[whid]

Yeah... I believe all my instruments are off. Fuel for sure... gotta mess with the float. Speed for sure...
checked it with the GPS.... Tach FOR SURE. Engine runs well. not even close to puttering out. And like
I said it is up enough to turn the back wheel.
I guess it's time to learn how to use a timing light on a scoot!
I will get my photobucket set up here soon so i can post videos and pics.
You have been assisting in "Jonway Died on Freeway" .... From the pics Lars posted, my airbox to tranny vent hose and 3 others are nothing like what his shows.... we both have YY250t's.
Mine is an 11' his is a 12'
Could they really be that dif. in configuration?
My hoses seem to be of better quality too with stamping of specs, brand or whatever. Haven't got to reading them yet. But I would like to get your opinion on all the lines coming out of my airbox.

[alleyoop]

Well I have to agree my Trike which was made in 2008 and they brought them in 2009 and I bought it march of 2009 STILL have the orginals lines on it and they are pretty damn good if I say so myself. I have not changed them.

But How can I say anything without pictures OH WAIT I AM CARNAC THE GREAT

Alleyoop

CARNAC THE GREAT

[whid]

Oh no.... the plot thickens.

I think I have become victim to the good ole clutch pad glazing....
I just started getting the "rail road track" shutter on take off.

I know glaze is not always the diagnosis with this symptom, but seem about 85% of the time that is the case.

I feel 100% certain it is my case.... Because....
Every morning 5am when it's about 35-45 degrees out, and I'm warming the scoot for travel to work. I have a smoke while watching the rear wheel slowly turn. This is about a 5min wait till gauge starts to read about 1/4.

Well in reading all the other thread, I began seeing this shutter issue... I had no clue the damage I was doing to myself. Not to mention the ginger take offs, trying to be easy on the brand new scoot.

Here's the problem...
I set out to adjust the idle. After scoot is nice and warm at 1/2 gauge reading (where it has maxed to date) I began to reduce the idle till the wheel stopped its rotation. I turned her down to the point my instrument lights and headlight were strobing from such low ele. The back wheel slowed, but is still turning. I brought the idle back up to the point the lights didn't flicker and am requesting HELP?

Now I guess is where we get into the whole spring thing in the clutch. Is it too strong and is pushing with tiny RPM?

One last question.... I warm up on the center stand. If the wheel is stopped by being on the side stand, will the clutch pads still be doing their glazing or does everything come to a halt with clutch regard when the back wheel is stopped??? This is my only hope until I can scrap the funds together for an impact wrench.

I'm guessing spring is going to be the only absolute cure.. Cause even if I were successful in stopping the wheel with a good idle when hot, what happens when the auto enricher does it's thing... Is that going to throw my rpms up and start the wheel up, again.

[alleyoop]

If the Clutch pads are being thrown out and grabbing the Bell to turn the wheel, you need new Clutch Springs. Get 1000 rated Clutch Springs they are a little stronger than the OEM springs. That will require a little higher RPMS to throw the PADS out to grab the bell.

It could also be that one or two springs are broke or the hole in the arm that is supposed to hold the spring has broken. So you really need to take the Clutch off and check out the springs.
Alleyoop

[whid]

Thanks Alley... ouch. I hate that word broke... cause I am... and the scoot just hit 250 miles.
I've taken the Chinese thing in stride.. Knowing what I was buying before buying. But my understanding was almost everything was due to connections and external stuff like wires, hoses... etc. And that the drive train was pretty sound.
I guess this will be my first warranty claim if it is the hole that is broke. The hole is in the assembly plate correct?
What is resale like on a 250 miled YY250T with a fresh PDI? This may be where I fold... Mt. Bike would be good for my heart anyway...

[alleyoop]

Do not know about resale value on them, but to answer you question the one hole is on the plate the other on the ARM Pad, so either could be broke. or maybe the springs slipped off one of the holding holes.
Alleyoop