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Post by JR on Jul 18, 2011 17:42:50 GMT -6
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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 18, 2011 18:05:56 GMT -6
before moving the piston up or down inside the cylinder, apply some motor oil to the gap between the cylinder walls. This might allow the rings to move freely along the wall. At this point, the rings might be stuck against the cylinder.
When putting back the cylinder, make sure you get the correct placement of the rings and ring alignment. This will make a difference when you are running the engine.
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Post by phildoc on Jul 22, 2011 19:02:02 GMT -6
Been busy doing other things, but picked up a gallon of Berryman carb and parts cleaner (with basket!) and will try to soak top half of cylinder head tomorrow.
Have tried repeatedly to pull cylinder block off, but no luck. (Since piston was at TDC, scooteraddict, there were no cylinder walls exposed to get oil onto...piston was flush with top of cylinder block).
Finally decided to rotate crank at by turning variator nut...piston moved down, and I stopped turning when the piston reached bottom, and then tried to pull head off. No go -- whereas with piston at TDC the cylinder block would rock, with piston at botton no movement at all. When I then continued moving the piston, the whole cylinder went up with the piston, so clearly piston is sticking! I will try to remove it later, but now that most of the interior cylinder wall is visible, I did smear a bunch of oil in it, and will leave it overnight.
I have hope the cylinder isn't cracked, and that what explains the rust is the for the last (nearly) three years, it has sat in my garage with no cylinder head cap nuts on, thus allowing cheap Chino coolant to leak between the cylinder block and the head, and pool on top of the piston. It's surely possible that after 130 miles the head cracked, but here's hoping...
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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 23, 2011 15:32:24 GMT -6
Now that you have the piston down and cylinder up. Place something to hold the cylinder up and crank the piston down to try to pull out of the cylinder. If the pistion shaft pin is showing, maybe you can knock the pin to remove both the cylinder with the piston together. Then you might be able to use something to dislodge the piston from the cylinder.
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Post by phildoc on Jul 25, 2011 15:54:12 GMT -6
Okay, brief update -- I am still cleaning things off, but I can't see any cracks in either the cylinder block or cylinder head. Here's a before an after picture to show you where I am: Cylinder head when first pulled:  ...and after a cleaning (one valve pulled out):  Still have more to do, but things are looking up. Here's the cylinder block after cleaning:  You can still see a bit of rust, but how to remove? Should I try some naval jelly, or is this discoloration that won't affect performance? Here's a closer look:  Inside of cylinder is definitely rough here at the bottom, but much smoother where the piston travel has been. What should I do to it -- try to get it honed or is it unsalvageable? Most of the rust is inside the water jacket, and I have been using a small wire bristle brush to clean out all the crap that was there. Ran water through the inlet to the cylinder block after cleaning, and once all the crap came out, it ran clear. Again, I am convinced the rust came from leaking cheap coolant at the head gasket, while the bike sat (with no cylinder cap nuts to secure the cylinder head) for nearly three years. Engine only has 130 miles, so I am hoping to salvage everything. But I am still a newbie, running more on hope than knowledge... |
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Post by tvnacman on Jul 25, 2011 18:19:12 GMT -6
gee Phill you gave your engine a barium enema .
I would ask the person you got the scooter from if they overheated with it .
How did you get it apart ?
John
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Post by JR on Jul 25, 2011 20:42:12 GMT -6
You mentioned the hone and that's what I would do on the head, if it's pitted in any place then it's toast order a new one, the valve head assembly looks fine and after lapping the valves should be ok but you'll want to make sure they seat well also.
You're getting there!
JR
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Post by phildoc on Jul 26, 2011 14:50:23 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Jul 26, 2011 17:52:38 GMT -6
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Post by phildoc on Jul 26, 2011 21:01:15 GMT -6
Thanks again, cruiser -- pulled the trigger on the first listing (saw it, but wasn't sure about the vendor).
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Post by phildoc on Jul 27, 2011 20:32:41 GMT -6
JR, just a note to again thank you -- used your expertise to test my thermostat (http://scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=250cc&thread=2151&page=1#13422), and it passed with flying colors.
Given how much blue gunk (darn that cheap coolant), I have a question. I have found crystalized gunk at each point where a hose meets the engine (at the thermostat, and the impeller, and the cylinder block). Any easy way to test if said gunk is also gumming up the innards of the radiator?
On a wholly unrelated note, I read your exchange with mccalli about cooking -- my dad was a food and wine writer and a chef, and I still chuckle when I recall first going off to college and discovering that my roommates didn't know how to make a basic bechamel sauce. I kid you not, my first thought was "Dude, didn't you have a dad growing up?" I thought all dads taught their sons how to make a souffle, etc.
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Post by phildoc on Aug 13, 2011 16:58:55 GMT -6
Have been out of commission for a while -- moved one daughter to Tulsa, and the next two kids head off to college at the end of the week, so I've had a lot of non-scooter odds and ends to take care of.
But I have the cylinder and piston, and will install them later next week. WARNING: if you ever remove a valve spring, be forewarned (if you use a homemade spring tool like I did -- a clamp and a piece of conduit) that if your tool slips, and the VERY POWERFUL spring takes flight, you might lose the valve retaining clip in your garage! Surprisingly, no harm done, and the two very tiny valve clip inserts were easily found, but the retaining clip appears to have been launched into orbit...had to order one, but I discovered that the local Honda dealer (my engine is a CN250 clone) can order me one for $2.44...but it won't be here till next week.
Just a note that I haven't given up on the scoot, and I will see this through to the end.
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 13, 2011 18:15:18 GMT -6
Is slow but it has gotten there about 1.5 to 2 weeks. |
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Post by JR on Aug 13, 2011 19:08:37 GMT -6
Yep it pays to have a clean area and watch for those flying parts when using the homemade stuff! Yes I would pull that radiator and hook a hose to one end and see how well it flows and if you wash any nasty stuff out. If you're concerned and you have one of the old time radiator shops around they can boil it out with chemicals and clean it well might have to give it another coat of paint if it is painted.
Hey don't you know only us southerners know how to really cook? Don't tell Madcollie that! LOL
JR
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Post by tvnacman on Aug 13, 2011 19:47:14 GMT -6
Phil , buy with piece of mind , I have bought plenty of items from them , they give 30 days . I ordered windsheild from them and they got damaged in shipping , they asked for a pic I sent it , they sent out a new one . I ordered a trunk from them they sent the wrong one , I sent it back they took off the return shipping on my next order .
I have spent upwords of a thousand dollars with them , things do happen and every time they make good on it .
John
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