Junior
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Post by lazerorca on Mar 6, 2012 11:29:04 GMT -6
so all of those pics of my grounds... are they sufficient? the thick black wire is from pic 7 is what goes to the battery correct?
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Post by JR on Mar 6, 2012 12:33:12 GMT -6
just now sent you a PM read it.
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Junior
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Post by lazerorca on Mar 7, 2012 14:58:02 GMT -6
Thank you so much for your help... the regulator keeps getting really hot and the stator keeps smoking
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Post by JR on Mar 7, 2012 18:13:46 GMT -6
I'll call you tomorrow and we can check something to be sure and find out what's going on.
Did you get the other stuff wired up?
JR
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Junior
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Post by lazerorca on Mar 7, 2012 18:59:11 GMT -6
I did... everything is wired up except one thing... I'm not sure what it does... I will put a pic up
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Junior
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Post by lazerorca on Mar 7, 2012 18:59:52 GMT -6
my turn signal lights are not blinking... and while I have it open... I was going to see what I can do about my speedometer... it is not working
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Junior
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Post by lazerorca on Mar 7, 2012 19:07:05 GMT -6
what does it do? how do I hook it up? The wire insulation is braided with male bullet connectors at the end
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Junior
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Post by lazerorca on Mar 9, 2012 14:17:04 GMT -6
I found those parts that I needed from one of the banner websites... thank you so much
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Junior
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Post by lazerorca on Mar 16, 2012 20:06:17 GMT -6
So to anyone that is checking out this thread and wants to know the outcome and how you too can also put in your own wiring harness, I am going to give you a synopsis of the whole process. JR asked me to come on here and give a bit of a summary, so if someone is having the same problems they can check out this thread.
With JR's help, a little bit of online reading, and some patience, I was able to replace an old wiring harness that was giving me a fit with a new generic harness that was full of incompatible plugs and such.
At the beginning of this project I only have a very basic understanding about electricity, and I was able to plow through this in a few days. You will definitely need a multimeter with an "ohm" setting to check for continuity. I found that just because a wire on one of end of the harness is the same color... it doesn't necessarily mean that it is in fact the same wire. I also had to move a few things around to accomodate the new harness, particularly my starter relay and my r/r (regulator/rectifier). Finding a schematic also will help you to get a general idea of how all of it works.
To start off, the problem I was having with my scooter initially was my battery died. I bought a new battery to replace it. When I did this, my tamp fuse kept blowing. It would run only by kick starting. My old harness looking around was ragged and was a hack job with lots of frayed and exposed wiring. It truly was a mess, and I figured I was getting a short from the old harness which turned out to be a good possibility.
I matched up my old harness with the new one pretty cleanly at the back and the main sort of "important" electrical parts like the stator, coil, and CDI. My CDI was a bit different in color configuration as you will see in this thread, but the wire from the old harness and from the new harness traced to the same areas... just the color was different from one harness to the next.
The front end of the scooter was a bit of a mess. You will see the solution for my situation in this thread where my starter had 5 wires coming from the back while my harness only had 4... there were two grounding greens from my switch. I just strapped the two together to one grounding wire.
Most importantly I would like to point out that the connectors from my new harness didn't match up to the front end harness really at all. I had to take a screwdriver from an eyeglass kit and back them out and move them around. some I just had to splice because male to male or female to female connections. just get you some electrical tape and some of that shrink insulation stuff and go ahead and splice the wire if you are positive those wires need to be connected. My biggest problem was I was thinking that the connectors were intuitively put in those configurations for a reason and I was afraid that for example light blue on one connector was different than light blue on another connector or that possibly i was supposed to just hook the wires according to how they were on the connector. really the ohm setting on the multimeter was my friend.
One issue I had was with my turn signals not blinking... after JR ran me through a series of troubleshooting steps, we deduced that the unit was broken. I ordered a new one and installed it today when I got it and it is working like a charm.
The other issue i had was when i plugged in my r/r and started my scooter, it would get incredibly hot and the stator would start smoking from the cover. JR once again ran me through a series of troubleshooting steps, and we deduced that it too was not working properly and must have had a short. I replaced it today as well... the battery is charging correctly, the stator is working, and all of my electrical seems to be working just fine.
For the last few days I had been using my scooter sparingly without the r/r plugged in waiting for it to come in the mail.... My advice is... DON'T DO IT! I found out that is why I am having to buy new bulbs... and doing this also compromises your auto-choke. Just wait for it to come unless you want to keep ordering stuff haha...
I will be adding more stuff about the specifics later. I just wanted to get this up, so if others stumble across this thread, they will be able to read about the outcome. I want to give JR a HUGE SHOUTOUT... he took time over the phone to pretty much walk me through a great deal of this whole process. HE TRULY DOES KNOW HIS STUFF... we had several situations that would only have been solved by him knowing intricately how this stuff works, which is a mystery to me for the most part, but I'm slowly learning mostly not by choice. No one around here works on scooters. He saved me a lot of time and money in all honesty, and I want to openly thank him over this forum.
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