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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 24, 2011 20:13:58 GMT -6
I hear you on you problems.
I just did something for my cooling system. I found that if the engine is the 257cc engine, then locate the hose that jumps from the t-stat to the other side of the cylinder. This is a small tube. After disconnecting one side, try filling it up.
Now as far as for the coolant coming back out, this will happen since it is heating up and expanding. best to let it happen and after a while (mind you did the step above), you will notice that air bubbles start to come to the filler at the point of when the fan turns on. After some time, turn off the bike, you will notice that the coolant will retract into the tubing.
Be patience and good luck
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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 23, 2011 19:06:50 GMT -6
On this web page, it explains it best. .fuelairspark.com/Products/Documentation/C-Com/Help/targetaf.htm" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.fuelairspark.com/Products/Documentation/C-Com/Help/targetaf.htm"There is a particular ratio of air to fuel that results in all of the oxygen molecules combining chemically with all of the fuel molecules. This ratio is 14.7:1, meaning 14.7 parts of air for every 1 part of fuel. Running an engine at this particular air/fuel ratio helps to minimize emissions and maximize fuel economy, but this air/fuel ratio is generally not safe to run at high RPM and/or engine load conditions. Since most oxygen sensors produced are only meant to accurately measure a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio, they shouldn't be used in applications where much richer or leaner target air/fuel ratios are selected. The wide-band oxygen sensor used with this system is capable of accurately measuring a much wider range of air/fuel ratios. This system can measure any ratio from as rich as 9:1 to as lean as 16:1."
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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 23, 2011 15:32:24 GMT -6
Now that you have the piston down and cylinder up. Place something to hold the cylinder up and crank the piston down to try to pull out of the cylinder. If the pistion shaft pin is showing, maybe you can knock the pin to remove both the cylinder with the piston together. Then you might be able to use something to dislodge the piston from the cylinder.
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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 23, 2011 15:12:08 GMT -6
Well I did a once over and found absolutely nothing wrong with the scooter. For the life of me, I can figure out what might cause such a loss of power on hills all of a sudden. I even had to take the muffler off and replace a broken bolt that held it on and found that the baffles were all broken loose inside. Now you might think that this might be the problem but the in reality, since the baffles have shifted, it created less restriction.
As a last resort, I even went and hooked up my A/F ratio meter to see if I'm running lean and far from it. In fact I run a tad rich. Not a lot be enough. Now I'm wondering that this might be causing the issue at hand. Normally optimum would be 14.7 Air to fuel ratio. Currently I'm running low 12's. Ideally, I should be running high 13's, low 14's for a well tuned bike. Could it be that the rich fuel mixture can cause this loss of power on hills?
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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 21, 2011 19:38:52 GMT -6
Well off came the plastics. Started to do the top intake and noticed that the air cleaner box was not on fully. Check the intake valve anyway and yes it was right. I'm certain that the bottom one is correct as well.
After getting the air intake on correctly, I tested the bike once again. No more sluggish at WOT after a half a minute or so up a hill but I still don't know about top speed on long runs. I want to reroute one of the coolant hoses first before I tighten everything up and take it for a true test.
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weird shimmy
by: scooteraddict - Jul 21, 2011 12:32:43 GMT -6
Post by scooteraddict on Jul 21, 2011 12:32:43 GMT -6
Take the nut off, apply loctite blue (not red) and reinstall the nut.
This will ensure that it will not loosen up again with allowing you take it off when needed.
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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 20, 2011 19:13:23 GMT -6
Well with the precharger on, it still has a problem keeping up.
I think that with a recent valve adjustment, I must have messed up. Well I'll take the plastics off again and perform an another adjustment. Why o why did I adjust something that didn't need it.
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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 20, 2011 12:44:33 GMT -6
I'll be putting the precharger on tonight, however, I can go for about 1/2 to 3/4 miles going uphill before it starts to loose power. This tells me it's realy not a run lean type of issue but a loss of vaccum which will not allow the pump to keep up.
I can understand that if it were to start when I begin to go up a incline, but it happens 1/2 or so upwards.
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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 20, 2011 5:56:06 GMT -6
Can too much intake or air flow through the carberator cause a reduction on the vacuum lines?
Up untill this pass weekend, I was running a K&N filter with a precharger filter over it. (Precharger filter is a net filter used for high dust applications.) Thinking I don't need this anymore, I removed it.
Now it seems that I might have lost my ability to create enough vacuum for the pump to keep up. I use to be able to reach 70mph or so. No problem on the flats or downhills but on hils I would loose a little speed but the pump would keep up (before the changes). After a few rides now, it seems that my carberator seems to start to starve and the bike starts to slow down, or loss of power. My though is that, if the engine has less restriction of air flowing through the carberator and can not produce a good vacuum, can this have an effect on the vacuum?
I would like to add, that I also reset the valves to 0.004" on the intake and 0.005" on the exhaust. Although these are the recomended settings, can the intake valve not be open enough to create enough vacuum for rhe pump to keep up?
I haven't had a chance to check for any vacuum leaks and I know that everything went back together, but I will do that tonight.
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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 18, 2011 18:05:56 GMT -6
before moving the piston up or down inside the cylinder, apply some motor oil to the gap between the cylinder walls. This might allow the rings to move freely along the wall. At this point, the rings might be stuck against the cylinder.
When putting back the cylinder, make sure you get the correct placement of the rings and ring alignment. This will make a difference when you are running the engine.
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weird shimmy
by: scooteraddict - Jul 18, 2011 17:54:23 GMT -6
Post by scooteraddict on Jul 18, 2011 17:54:23 GMT -6
If your rear wheel is wobbling, then tighten the axle nut.
As for the engine wobble, check the through bolt that supports the engine at the crankcase.
I had a bad engine side to side shift and after going through what was more then necessary, I though about it and maybe all I had to do was tighten the bolt.
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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 17, 2011 18:53:48 GMT -6
Well I set the exhaust valve to .005 and took it for a test ride. Yes there is a difference.
The other thing is that I seem to have lost some high end speed. This last tank, I put in some sea-foam and it seems that the bike runs a little differently with some type of additive. I'll find out with a fresh tank
Another thing is that I had a pre-charger on my K&N filter, recharger is a cover for a high dust situation.) so what I'm thinking is that I might be running a little lean. It doesn't seem like it though.
I have made a air fuel mixture rig that will tell me when I'm running optimum. Before this, I was running at 14.7 which was borderline or right in the sweet spot at WOT.
For the new few weeks, I guess it will have to do.
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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 16, 2011 19:00:44 GMT -6
Thanks for the suggestion. I will try to get to the exhaust valve next week.
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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 15, 2011 20:28:17 GMT -6
Well, I got the bike back together and took it for a test spin. And yes, it was a nice tight feel. No more swaying.
After giving it some though, I believe that the one reason for the wear is due to the nut and rod loosening up allowing play across the bottom section. I should have tried to tighten this up first before taring the bike apart.
While I had the bike apart, I delved into adjusting the valves again. They weren't too bad. I reset the intake to 4mm and the exhaust to 7. After starting the bike, I vibrated badly, although riding it, it doesn't feel had.
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Post by scooteraddict on Jul 15, 2011 13:56:27 GMT -6
Well, here is my solution to the problem. What I did is discided to go with a stiffer supspension. What I did was, I turned a steel rod to fit some brass bushings that would fit the lower tube. As you can see, the top of the swing arm has a set of bushings in it already. So by adding more rubber bushings in the lower section, I felt that this would allow too much wiggle. With the brass bushings and solid rod, this would stiffen up the pivot point at which the engine connect. I will also be greasing the heck out of it to prevent more wear like it did before. If this is too stiff for my taste, i did come up with a backup plan but it involves some modification to bushings with the correct OD but larger ID. I would be subsituting the brass bushings with rubber ones and using a turned rod like the one pictured above.
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