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Post by scooteraddict on Sept 13, 2013 15:19:18 GMT -6
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Post by scooteraddict on Apr 14, 2013 12:02:06 GMT -6
to the wild side.
Now don't get me wrong but I love my 250 but I couldn't help it. I just purchased a Yamaha Tmax and take possession of it on Thursday. What a great deal I got for the bike. Now its a 09 with 1300 miles on it and while may other places are asking $6500 or more for a bike like this, I managed to get it under 5k not including tax and plates. This has been my dream to get one but the price just hasn't been right until now.
The reason for getting on is due to me 200lb+ weight and the local hills that I need to travel. I plan on using this for commuting on the highway and the 250 slows down to an average of 60mph while all the cars around me want to do 70+mph in a 50/55mph zone. Here in NY, the drivers are ruthless and don't care about the other guy on the road.
I can only explain that a Tax is the sports bike of scooters and the crossover between a motorcycle and a scooter due to its rear swing arm and chain final drive.
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Post by scooteraddict on Feb 27, 2013 17:19:51 GMT -6
It sounds like you mighty have a short in the wiring that feeds the brake lights. Trace the wiring going from the Brake switch to the lights. Also see if all the connectors are mating correctly.
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Post by scooteraddict on Jan 13, 2013 12:08:04 GMT -6
If you took off the diaphragm cap, the one with the spring under it, I would suspect that the needle was stuck in the high position. I've had this issue and opening the top diaphragm corrected this. If you were WOT, this would cause this. At WOT the needle might unseat from the jet and get stuck letting too much gas in the carb not allowing to idle correctly or start.
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Post by scooteraddict on Nov 29, 2012 19:32:01 GMT -6
I think I can help you with this.
Recently, I had the same problem that you had. It wound up to be both the stator and regulator. You will have to start testing your electrical system.
Look into testing the different voltages coming from the stator. Your best way is to do it with the plug unplugged. The reading should be taken in AC volts and they all should be equal. At about 40 volts or better.
Next test the voltages out of the regulator. These should be in DC volts and again, should be equal as well. These should be at or around 13.7
If you check the help section, there is more information about checking your stator and regulator.
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Post by scooteraddict on Nov 16, 2012 18:49:41 GMT -6
Well the verdict is in. I got the new R/R and just installed it. turned the bike over and tested the voltages. Both AC and DC.
With the bike running and all wires connected, at 2000 rpm's, I was getting 27 volts AC on all three yellow wires. Testing the yellow wire at the auto-choke, the voltage was 13.7 AC to ground.
At the battery, I was getting 13.7 volts across both terminals and the same for both output wires at the R/R. To me the regulator was bad.
A while back the I had a problem with another auto-choke where the wires fell apart due to where the plastic tubing was sealed over the wires. I can only think that the two wires shorted out and shorted the regulator which then cause the stator to burn up.
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Post by scooteraddict on Nov 16, 2012 12:12:48 GMT -6
You know, checking around for a R/R, you wouldn't believe how many different ones I found for the 250cc engine. I had to be careful due to the wire connectors. The one I have on my bike has six wire. 3 wires each in two different connectors which one is a 3 wire connector and the other a 4 wire connector both being female.
When I decided to purchase a R/R, I went to the scooter cross reference section and looked up the one suggested. This one wouldn't work for me since it has a 2 three wire connectors which one is a male and the other a female.
Where I found the one I needed was on Monster scooter parts for a price about the same as the one suggested. With researching further, I found one as chip as $22 but you know what they say. You get what you pay for.
I will try it tonight and let you guys know.
Cruiser: I understand the principals of the auto-choke but if you are only getting 1 volt AC to the unit, it just won't heat up to allow it to close. Basically what I'm saying is that, yes I did have a high equal AC voltage when the stator was unplugged from the rest of the bike. When plugged in I was getting all kinds of weird voltages on the yellow wires where one wire had only 1v AC. This is not right and sounds like this wire might have been grounded within the R/R. Even the output of the R/R was not where it should have been.
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Post by scooteraddict on Nov 15, 2012 16:35:52 GMT -6
Sorry if I didn't mention it but the yellow wires were measured with the meter on AC and across each wire, not the ground. For the R/R output wire, these were measured with the meter on DC.
Now if I,m getting no more the 2 volts to the auto choke, I can only think that the R/R is bad / shorted internally. Now being frustrated, I ordered a R/R to see if this is the problem.
Now one test I didn't perform is to test the voltage on the yellow wires without the R/R output wires connected. If I get the same results, then I know for sure that its the regulator.
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Post by scooteraddict on Nov 14, 2012 12:01:26 GMT -6
Here is a picture of the r/r This is on a mc54 250B style bike.
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Post by scooteraddict on Nov 13, 2012 8:26:49 GMT -6
So here I am, scratching my head over a problem that I thought I fixed. A while back, I had to replace my stator due to a bad coil. (read at thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=250classchinese&thread=1854&page=1#12215) Well what is plaguing me know is that my auto-choke is not working. When I take a reading, I get like 1.9 volts or so. Thinking that I had not installed the connectors correctly, off came the plastics. Every seem fine but the odd thing is I'm getting strange voltages. For the output direct from the R/R, I am getting 14.7 volts. Through the diode, 9 volts. Now without the stator plugged in, two things happens. One is I get the correct volts at about 40+ volts and the bike actually revs higher. As soon as I plug the stator back in, the RPM's drop. Weird? With testing the voltage with the R/R plugged in to stator on the yellow wires, I'm getting around 14, 9 and 1 volt. So my question is, can the R/R be bad? Could the R/R have cause the stator to go bad or did the stator cause the R/R to go bad? Any thoughts?
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Post by scooteraddict on Nov 1, 2012 17:40:36 GMT -6
I realy like the guages. A few questions.
1. Where did you tie the Tach into?
2. How accurate is the GPS speedometer?
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Post by scooteraddict on Oct 22, 2012 18:25:50 GMT -6
OK guys, I think I might have found the knock. I took the outside cover off the magneto coil (where the oil stick is) to see if I could figure out what that piece was to. When I opened it up I found the small gear at the top above the magneto rotor just sitting in there loose. It was connected to the gears but wasn't fastened to anything. (see the attached pic) I turned the engine over by hand and I'm pretty sure that's what the knocking is. That gear was jumping all over the place. I tried that little piece I posted earlier that fell out the bottom in the center of that gear to see if maybe it went there. Doesn't fit. Anyways I thought I would at least post this and see what you guys think. I'm really hoping someone can help me here. I'm desperate to get this thing back on the road. The reason the gear is loose is because the shaft for this gear is in the cover. You can remove the shaft from the cover and insert it in the gear and respective supporting hole on the other side. It is easier to do it this way then try to line it up with the shaft in the cover.
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Post by scooteraddict on Aug 27, 2012 7:20:32 GMT -6
Well the other night, I was riding in the night, the real first time and I was using my newly installed 35/35w H4 halogen lights thinking that everything was OK. (By the way, this is a true MC54-250B model) Now on a previous thread, I mentioned that I installed HIDs and had a problem, thinking that they were drawing too much amperage. I had notice that I had a a low voltage but still adequate, about 12.7 to 12.9 volts. Bike ran fine and the battery was not draining or having a hard problem starting. Back to the story. As I was riding, something didn't seem right about the headlight. They weren't a bright as I expected them to be. Don't get me wrong, they were bright but not that bright. I had also noticed that they were change brightness but not as a flicker or because of the fan. I started thinking about the regulator and that maybe the connections were just not that snug enough. So off come the plastics and started looking at the connectors and terminals of the regulator. At this point I starting thinking about the stator. I brake out the multimeter and tested it. With the reading I was getting, they weren't just right. So it was on the next step and pull the cover to the stator and what I found, I didn't like. As you can see in the picture, it was fried. I didn't noticed it at first but with looking at the photos, I noticed this. (look at arrow) I guess that once the oil drained away from the stator, it became evident that one wire was rubbing against the flywheel and eventually shorted out causing a high load in the one coil. And yes, these stators see oil. I can tell you that the flywheel does not have one magnet but quite a lot of magnets on the inside which can produce what I think a lot of amperage. Maybe that's why I still had a good enough voltage to keep the bike running. Also on this bike, the pickup coil for the CDI relies on what is called a Hall Effect principle. This is where a it senses a change in a magnetic field when a metal object passes through it. Just thought you guys would like to know.
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Post by scooteraddict on Aug 22, 2012 16:07:16 GMT -6
If what you stated about holding the high beam switch down, the I would look at the hi/lo switch. I had I problem twice recently dealing with the switch. I guess the spring which pushes the slide across the contacts was not the strong and causing an heating problem due to high current draw. This in turn was melting the plastic which hold the contacts and rising the slide away from the contacts.
What I did was take apart the switch and shave away the melted plastic so that the slide and contacts can make.
Good luck.
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Question:
by: scooteraddict - Aug 19, 2012 6:59:12 GMT -6
Post by scooteraddict on Aug 19, 2012 6:59:12 GMT -6
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