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Post by scooterdad154 on Jun 12, 2013 21:00:54 GMT -6
fflintsone
I have a 2008 MC54-250B and installed similar 12v, 35W bulbs and my hi/lo beam switch melted.
Others have reported no such problems but I would consider installing a relay with the 25W-->35W upgrade if I were you.
scooterdad
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Post by scooterdad154 on May 25, 2013 21:58:04 GMT -6
[replyingto=scooterdad154]scooterdad154[/replyingto]With the new R/R installed, I got a reading of 15.15v dc at the battery @2500 rpm, is that too high?
What should the regulator be limiting the voltage to?
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Post by scooterdad154 on May 25, 2013 21:54:16 GMT -6
[replyingto=cruiser]cruiser[/replyingto]Yes, I failed to mention in last post but the R/R wires are hot as well.
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Post by scooterdad154 on May 25, 2013 18:29:07 GMT -6
Hi Just wanted to share something that has worked for me as a Master Cylinder (MC) Site Glass replacement. Actually, on my scoot the original site material appears to have been plastic. I performed this replacement on my front brake MC last Fall and it is still holding up. (I accidentally put my finger thru the site window while I was wiping what I thought was dirt off the site window.) The rear MC site window looked cloudy like it was cracking so I started the same replacement today. I used a 17.5 mm diameter, 1.5 mm thick watch crystal to replace the site window. I purchased the watch crystal from a local jeweler. - Remove brake lever bolt and brake lever
- Remove brake switch wires from brake light switch
- Remove brake light switch screw and switch
- Remove mirror
- Open lid on MC
- Sop up brake fluid in MC reservoir with paper towel
- Remove brake line bolt from MC (keep rag underneath to catch any brake fluid drips)
- Remove the two bolts that keep the MC attached to handle bars
- Remove the MC and sop up remaining fluid
- Chip out the broken plastic window
- Use a small screw driver to pry out the metal ring and then rubber gasket from the MC (get the screwdriver blade behind the rubber gasket and pry up. It took me several attempts.)
- Use brake cleaner spray to clean up MC reservoir and site opening (I used straight edge razor blade and utility razor to scrape off foreign matter from within reservoir and site window opening
- Applied Permatex PermaPoxy 5 minute general purpose epoxy to the inside edge of the site window and edge of the watch crystal
- Let dry overnight
- Reassemble components and bleed brake line.
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Post by scooterdad154 on May 25, 2013 17:17:43 GMT -6
[replyingto=scooterdad154]scooterdad154[/replyingto]Well
Someone had informed me that hot regulator wires indicate too much draw or the regulator not handling the draw.
I gambled and ordered and installed a new $48 six wire R/R.
Unfortunately, the two R/R plugs are as hot as they were with the original R/R.
Besides gambling again by replacing the entire wiring harness ($126), are there any trouble shooting steps I can try to determine if there is a component drawing too much current?
Thanks
scooterdad154
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Post by scooterdad154 on May 21, 2013 21:11:56 GMT -6
Thanks Cruiser, are there any other tests I can perform to isolate why the two 3 prong plugs coming from the R/R get very hot to the touch?
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Post by scooterdad154 on May 21, 2013 14:23:22 GMT -6
The step 2 voltage reading was 0.3-0.35v dc.
Step 2 fix says to replace broken red wire btwn R/R and pos battery terminal if reading is above 0.2v dc. Can someone explain how this could be broken if the battery is getting charged?
Thanks
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Post by scooterdad154 on May 20, 2013 10:12:29 GMT -6
Cruiser
Thanks, I will give a try.
Is the Blocking Diode the other heat sinked device mounted aft of the R/R? (Upper Left Hand Corner on the picture I posted)
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Post by scooterdad154 on May 19, 2013 13:50:04 GMT -6
I replaced the 3 prong and 2 prong plugs and corresponding male and female terminal connectors. Started engine and let idle for ~10 minutes to make sure the new connectors would not melt. The new connectors barely felt warm. However, the two 3 prong connectors coming from the Rectifier/Regulator (R/R) were hot to the touch (one 3 prong has three yellow wires coming from the R/R and the other 3 prong has a red, green and black wire coming from the R/R). I figured the hot connectors would be my next failure but I was not sure exactly what to do next. I came across rapidjim's post for "Testing a Charging System on a 300cc Trike 3Phase Stator". JR indicated it would be applicable to the 257cc Linhai as well so I preceded with tests. Performed Steps 1 thru 6 with normal results for all except step 2 reprinted below (including link to rapidjim's original post). Step 2 – With the engine idling, connect the meter’s black lead to the battery’s positive post and the red lead to the red output wire on the voltage regulator. The voltage reading should be less than 0.2 vdc. If the voltage is above that repair the broken wire between the voltage regulator and the positive post of the battery then repeat Step 1. If the voltage is less than 0.2 vdc then go to Step 3. Read more: .thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=3wheel&action=display&thread=797#ixzz2TlivSOFI" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=3wheel&action=display&thread=797#ixzz2TlivSOFIMy results for step 2 were as follows: (A) - 2.8v dc when radiator fan was off (B) + 0.7v dc when radiator fan was on Note: Before turning engine on the step 2 reading was -12.87v dc. I was looking for feedback on my results before tearing the wiring harness apart to replace this voltage regulator to battery connection. Does anyone know if these results indicate "just" a broken wire between the voltage regulator and the positive post of the battery? Thanks scooterdad Attachments:
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Post by scooterdad154 on May 10, 2013 16:10:10 GMT -6
I dont think that was what happened in my case. Both the three prong plug and the two prong plug were melted in place, locking tab and all. The two prong plug was not as badly melted as the three prong plug. 1) I removed all of the molten/unmolten plastic from both sides of the five stator connectors. (I uniquely marked them before doing this to make sure I could reconnect properly when done). I then reconnected each of the Bladed conductors and scooter started up and ran fine. However, the three yellow stator wires and two other plastic connectors (the ones that make connections to the R/R) were warm to the touch while engine was running. See attached photo. Is this "normal"? 2) I stopped engine and disconnected each of the three yellow stator wires. Started the engine back up and measured the AC voltage between them, it was 57-59 @3000 RPM. Is this voltage measurement high enough? 3) If the temperature of connectors is not considered an issue and I proceed with repair, a) Can I use Radio Shack connectors with specs below in place of the connectors recommended by others earlier in this thread? (I already have the connectors in hand) - Contact resistance: 0.0025 ohm
- Maximum current per circuit: 8 amps
- Maximum voltage circuit: 250 volts
- Voltage drop: 2.5mV at 1A
- Min Operating Temperature -40 Fahrenheit
- Max Operating Temperature 221 Fahrenheit
or b) can I simply place shrink wrap over each of the five stator connections and be done with it? Thanks to all for offering guidance! scooterdad154 Attachments:
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Post by scooterdad154 on May 10, 2013 5:55:45 GMT -6
[replyingto=cruiser]cruiser[/replyingto]Cruiser
Thanks for the additional info.
I need to research this site for possible reasons why these plugs coming from stator have overheated.
Can you or anyone else offer any possible explanantions?
Thanks
scooterdad
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Post by scooterdad154 on May 6, 2013 22:33:01 GMT -6
[replyingto=richardthescooter3]richardthescooter3[/replyingto]Richard Curious to know how the replacement plugs have held up, whether there was any more "melting", etc. My 2008 250B died on the road the other day. Intake & Exhaust Valve gaps and fuel pump checked ok. Then, as I "peeled back the onion", noticed two connector plugs originating from engine block were melted. Looked similar to your situation. By the way, does anyone know of any other source(s) for replacement connectors. The outfit JR recommended in link above is out of stock for ~a month. Thanks Scooterdad154 Attachments:
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Post by scooterdad154 on Feb 26, 2013 11:15:50 GMT -6
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Post by scooterdad154 on Feb 20, 2013 21:24:15 GMT -6
dhull, JR Last May I replaced the 25W headlight bulbs on my 2008 Cyprus 250 54B with 35W incandescent bulbs. I enjoyed the brighter bulbs but coincident with the swap my hi/lo beam switch appeared to be stuck in the hi beam position. I only ride with the hi beams on all the time anyway, so i didn't sweat it. However, during summer months the headlights started to turn on and off unexpectedly at times. I disassembled the collar containing the hi/lo beam sw, turn signal sw and horn and removed the hi/lo beam sw from the collar. It appeared as thought the plastic around the contact had melted a little bit but enough to break the connection (see attachment). I trimmed the melted plastic off and sanded the contact. Repair brought headlights back online so I reintalled sw into collar and collar back onto handlebars. The repair was short lived as the headlights went out again soon after the repair. I cleaned up the contacts again but realized the switch was getting noticeably warm to the touch with the hi beams on so I abandoned the repair. I speculated that the increase in current when going from 25W to 35W bulbs was the issue (25W/12v=2.08A ==> 35W/12v=2.92A). I have since replaced the switch with a SPDT switch from radio shack. I was wondering 1) how your hi/lo beam switch was handling the 50W bulbs (50W/12v= 4.17A)? and 2) if anyone else has had my experience when upgrading the higher wattage headlight bulbs? 3) if my speculation of increased current causing the switch contacts to melt was correct? Thanks scooterdad154 Attachments:
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