Tank Urban 250cc need electrical help By stealthy27th (Read 1,553 times)

[stealthy27th]

Hi everyone i just joined the site.I was looking at some previous posts of people having wiring issues with their chinese scooters.My problem is a lil different I'm in need of some assistance.Is there a partical person on here to talk to? Or should i just writing up my sad story? :]  thanks in advance

[bobf]

Best to just post your concerns. Someone will respond in time. Describe your scoot, type of engine such as 244cc vertical or 257cc horizontal both can be sold as 250cc class, the problem or concern.
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[JR]

I'll echo what Bob said lay it on us sad story and all, we can handle it!

JR

[stealthy27th]

Wow guy thanks for a quick response first things first.So the story with my scoot its a 06 Tank Urban 250cc.When I got the scoot it had aftermarket switch installed for the light to control them independatly meaning you can turn the lights on/off kinda like a straight to the battery setup.The bike would start and run fine no problem.My smart a%& decided to take the switch out and I disconnected all of the wires that have been previously modded/rigged.I guess my goal was to rewire the bike right but shortly after turned into a complete nightmare.At this point I'm completely lost and very frustrated.So said that here is what I do remember clearly about the modded wiring job.These was 3 total wires coming off the battery.1 is the stock factory fat wire going to the coil? (Guessing).2 a red wire (mod) going from the like fuse on one side farthest from the battery.3 another red wire (mod) with another fuse link going to the brown wire from the fuse box which I found out is running lights.All thses wires were connected to some sort of main wire on the front of the scoot to run the lights and obviously start the scoot.Please let me know what else do you guys need to get this problem resolved.Thanks again!

[ellpee]

Not sure how much a 2006 Tank has in common with a 2011 Roketa, but the original setup was probably something like this:
-- "Fat" wire from battery + pole likely goes to the starter solenoid. Guessing it's red ... ? That has one purpose: to provide serious juice to the starter when the solenoid closes, which happens when you hit the starter button on the handlebars.
-- "Thin" wire from battery + pole, likely with an in-line fuse, likely also red, goes to the ignition switch; when the key is turned to the "on" position, juice from that wire is allowed to flow to the fusebox, where it is split up and goes to several places -- lights, gauges, horn, and so on.
-- My fusebox has four fuses. One is for the ignition and is only "live" when the engine is running, but when the key is on, best I can recall the other three carry 12v battery juice to (a) turn/hazard flashers, (2) brake lights, and (3) other lights/horn/gauges. Yours may or may not be set up the same way, but there are probably similarities, and some trial and error will clarify what's what with yours. Turn on the key and pull one fuse at a time, trying various things as you do, and it should become obvious what gizmos are fed by what fuse.

From that point, what you need to do to get your Tank back to "OEM configuration" depends on how creative the prior owner got with his rewiring, so post your findings here and you're sure to get all kinds of help. Good luck!

[stealthy27th]

Thanks for chipping in ellpee everything you said so far matches my bike.My main problem is that I font know where these modded red wires connected to the front of the scoot.I can tell you that there is a male harness just sitting there with nothing connected to it I'm starting to get the idea that this scooter was wired this way due to the harness missing in the first place.Maybe I'll take some pics to clear this up?

[stealthy27th]

The only thing as of right now that happens when the key is turned on is the fuel gauge rises and reads the level,hazard and turn signals work and the high beam flash function works as well.No start,no running lights,no horn and of course no brake light.

[JR]

Follow this diagram and wire the scooter back to this where in doubt.

.thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/thread/456/lance-duke-250-touring-diagram" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/thread/456/lance-duke-250-touring-diagram

The fuse box will have one black wire coming from the ignition and splits up to 3 of the 4 fuses in fuse box. That feeds everything except the lights. The single wire that is fused and goes to the head and tail lights is fed from the R/R and the lights are on all the time with the scooter running. Throw away the jury rigged switch that was put on and start wiring this scooter right.

JR

[stealthy27th]

OK let me post some pics up I have a feeling this scoot was wired this way due to a missing harness

[ellpee]

I might add that the OEM fusebox on mine was poor quality -- the little metal slots for the fuses were prone to slipping out of position, resulting in bad/no contact for the circuit in question. I bought a US-made fusebox at AutoZone or somewhere and re-wired everything, labelling things clearly as I went, and actually mounted the fusebox on a little homemade rack under the seat for ease of future access. If you're going to find yourself in the midst of a big rewiring project, you might consider doing something similar.

Interesting that high-beam flash works but horn doesn't. Best I can recall, on mine both of those worked or both didn't, and were fed by the same fuse. Not to add to the confusion, but you just might find the horn has a bad connection or is otherwise kaputt.

Pictures are good, lots of pictures even better, both for those trying to help you and those trying to learn from you.

CLARIFYING: Just looked at my fusebox, and it's as follows: one fuse for fan only (BIG juice-sucker!), second for brake/horn/gauges/high beam flash, third for blinkers (turn and emergency), fourth for all other lights (active only when engine is running). Not sure which supports the "running lights," those little guys next to the headlights -- I modified mine so headlights come on as soon as the key is on, engine running or no, so without experimenting I can no longer tell if the running lights are on fuse 2 or fuse 4. If that becomes important for you I'll experiment.

[alleyoop]

Here this should help which fuse does what:
Alleyoop

[ellpee]

Yup, that's the same crummy fusebox I had on my Roketa before I replaced and relocated it. The YY250T wiring diagram also has some fusebox info in the lower left corner (picture attached, entire PDF was too big), including wire colors although those are not always accurate.

Oops, sorry, that picture's pretty small. I think I got the actual PDF file somewhere on this forum, but don't remember exactly where. Anybody?

OK, pasted it into word and re-saved it to PDF, much smaller file, now attached.

Attachments:

Doc1.pdf (248.76 KB)

[tyson9999]

Need diagram for take Urban touring 250cc Scooter