Rear wheel wobble By steve (Read 3,260 times)

[steve]

Only my right wheel has that issue, but it sounds like a simple process. Should I do both axles? Spacers will be here today.

[steve]

I got one spacer installed before the rain/cold hit, but that install brings up another question. I installed a 1/16 thick spacer, but could not get the C-clip on and had to take it down about .060. That seems to indicate that the axle wasn't moving? I will install the other this week-end and see how much slop I have. 1/16 play can cause that?

[alleyoop]

If the CASTLE NUT was loose it did move. Did you give the end of the axle a tap to push it all the way in?
Alleyoop

[steve]

Nut was against the washer, but I was able to remove it without tools and re-use the hole in the axle when I re-installed. it. Smacked the axle with a hammer but got no movement. By the time I got that C-clip out, I was ready to hit something with a hammer! Supposed to be 72 here in TX today, so I'll install the other spacer and recheck the first one. Thanks for your help. On a different subject, I've seen no posts from Rapidjim for a while?

[tomcat]

Don't mean to hijack your thread Steve, but this seems to be a good time to ask my question.
Bought my Viking trike last July, it's a 2012 model. Here is a pic of my axle:
[img src="smg.photobucket.com/user/tomcatmi/media/Trike/Axle11-9-13_zps24188f35.jpg.html" alt="" src="http://" style="max-width:100%;"]
It appears that I don't have the new and improved axle either. So far I haven't had a problem, but wouldn't you think, out of common courtesy, that Ice Bear would at least release a notification to owners of the potential problem, and a solution?
Not saying they would even have to pay for it under warranty. Just let folks know how to correct the manufacturing screw-up themselves.
If it wasn't for guys like Alley, how the hell would we be aware?

Edit:  Sorry for the goofy link to the pic,,,,,,,,,,,,,can't figure out how this board works as far as posting pics. Have no problem on several other sites.

[alleyoop]

Noticed something on your axle. Not to bad yet but don't forget to fill the differential with grease every 1000 miles or so. Get the highest rated temp grease you can find so it does not turn to liquid with the heat. Otherwise more of it will sip pit.
Alleyoop

[steve]

So I tried to do the mod on the other axle. I could not get the spacer in and still install the C-clip. I put her back together, but when I tried to install the castle nut, I had to leave a washer out. The total thickness of the 2 washers under the castle nut was close to 1/4 inch. It would seem that when I tapped the axle, I moved it in almost 1/8 inch. Alley, I'm a little lost here. My hub shaft is maybe 3 to 4 inches long and splined the full length. My axle is splined about that much also. The basic question is. Does the taper of the axle only allow a short length of full hub contact? And more importantly, why did I have to pull a castle nut washer?

[steve]

My Viking has a grease fiting in that center hub location. Yours appears to be missing?

[tomcat]

Alley,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,yes that is grease splatter & grease around the rod. I filled the axle with grease when there was there was about 125 miles on the trike, have 250 now. Used this .harborfreight.com/sta-lube-moly-graph-lithium-grease-40712.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.harborfreight.com/sta-lube-moly-graph-lithium-grease-40712.html
Is it possible to over-greased it? I mean, I really pumped it in.
Cleaned everything up so will see if any more accumulates, but it will be next spring before I can ride enough to check it.
Steve,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,the grease fitting is on the other side of the axle, I just rotate the rear wheels until it faces up to get at it.
Again, sorry for the hijack, I should have just started a new thread.
Although it looks like you, Alley, and me are the only ones participating anyway.   : = 0

Oh, and as you can see, my chain guard fell off. Was just riding 25mph down a residential street a couple months ago when it came off. Was able to retrieve it but not going to bother having it welded back on, it's easier to lube the chain with no guard.

[steve]

Mine looked like yours when I bought it. I am making a few changes.

[alleyoop]

Yes Tomcat,
The chain guard is a joke, mine broke in about 2 months and I had it welded then it broke again so I just took the piece of crap off, you really don't need it.
Alleyoop

[alleyoop]

Nov 10, 2013 4:33:03 GMT -6 steve said:

So I tried to do the mod on the other axle. I could not get the spacer in and still install the C-clip. I put her back together, but when I tried to install the castle nut, I had to leave a washer out. The total thickness of the 2 washers under the castle nut was close to 1/4 inch. It would seem that when I tapped the axle, I moved it in almost 1/8 inch. Alley, I'm a little lost here. My hub shaft is maybe 3 to 4 inches long and splined the full length. My axle is splined about that much also. The basic question is. Does the taper of the axle only allow a short length of full hub contact? And more importantly, why did I have to pull a castle nut washer?

Yes, the taper only allows a shorter length of full hub contact that is basically the whole problem. If it was not tapered it would not wobble just be going in and out on the axle.

The reason you had to take out a washer is because now the axle is in further and do not have to make up for the axle being out so that you can line up the Castle nut slot with the axle hole to hold the Castle nut. Same with mine I had TWO washers until I added the Spacer washer behind the Clip.

And just to make you feel better The right side Axle I DO NOT have a washer on it which by the way is a shorter axle in length only on the LEFT side. Never had a problem with the Right side just the left side getting loose. Don't forget when you pushed in the LEFT side in it also put pressure on the gears inside the differential to push the RIGHT side nice and tight. So the Differential gears inside are now riding nice and snuge with all four worm gears with less play.
Alleyoop

[steve]

Thanks, Alley. It looks like they just get it close and then add washers, where needed. Rather than the axle mod they did, they could have also tapered the hub to match the axle? Guess their mod is a little cheaper.

They have a ways to go, but they have sure come a long way in 3-4 years. I'm expecting to see EFI, better materials, and much improved processes and quality control in the next few years. Finishes - especially chrome have a long way to go! Those who expect to see Honda or Harley quality and service at Chinese prices will continue to be disapointed.

[tomcat]

Nov 10, 2013 12:22:29 GMT -6 steve said:

Mine looked like yours when I bought it. I am making a few changes.

Looks good!
Is that a sissy bar? Can you post a larger pic(s)?
Tom

[tomcat]

Alley, getting back to my axle for a moment, is it possible that the splatter was caused by me "overfilling" with grease and some seeped out because of that, sort of like a relief valve, & the seal is ok? I really pumped it in there.
Thanks.
Tom