Rear wheel wobble By steve (Read 3,261 times)

[steve]

I know this has been beaten to death already but here I go. I have a 2012 Viking. This should be one with the axle fix, but there is noise coming from the right wheel and it wobbles. I have read the thread where I think the answer was to pull the wheel, smack the axle with a hammer and tighten down the axle nut? Did a search, for the thread but can't find the link to that thread. Is it possible that my 2012 was assembled with an unmoded axle, and can anyone show me what the new axle looks like?

[alleyoop]

Here is what a upgraded Axle would look like The Screws on each side of the AXLE TUBE about 6 inchs from each side. The two screws on each side HOLD a FLOATING RING. Next to the FLOATING RING what they did is weld on a piece of PIPE onto the AXLE itself. The Pipe is about 1/8 thick and when the Axle starts to move out it is stopped by the Floating Ring when the Welded pipe hits it.
Alleyoop




But you can still fix it without that floating ring on the axle. After you take the Dust Cover off :
There is a BIG "C" Clip that sits in a GROVE in the TUBE, Behind that you will usually find a thick washer to take up some slack for the HUB. Behind that washer is your Wheel Bearing.

What you want to do is Get a BIG WASHER or another BIG CLIP and add it behind the "C" clip that fits in the grove of the tube. That will go against the bearing and the out side "'C" clip. There is a space between the Bearing and the "CLIP" that stops the entire axle from coming out you want to fill that space so the AXLE has no room to move out.
You just want it to go against the BIGGER DIAMETER of the BEARING, not the part that actually turns with the axle.



Also if after when putting on the CASTLE NUT and tighten it onto the HUB the Slots on the CASTLE NUT are to far in you will need to ADD A washer or couple of them to Bring the CASTLE NUT out so the SLOTS align with the HOLE in the AXLE to put the COTTER PIN IN.

[steve]

Thank-you so much. I guess they do use whatever is handy when they build these. Brand new 2012 with less than 100 miles. The factory axle upgrade was one of the reasons I bought this, but mine does not have it.. I would do this mod to both axles? And is that factory c-clip the only thing hilding my axle on? You've done so much already, but I am required to live where I work, and can't keave her on stands while I hunt down the part. Do you have any info on diameter or thickness or maybe a source to get this from?

[alleyoop]

Sorry but ICE BEAR is the only one's that would carry or have to order the parts. But let me say this YOU would also need the TWO axles one on each side because the AXLES have the Welded PIPE on them not to mention the axle tube itself with the holes in the right place. A new complete axle costs quite a bit. So I suggest you go the CHEAP ROUTE and add another C clip or a big washer behind the CLIP that holds the hold thing in place.

Also if need be a washer behind the CASTLE NUT.
Alleyoop

[alleyoop]

But please get that tightened up ASAP or the wobble will eat the SPLINES on the HUB and then you will have to order New HUBs.
Alleyoop

[alleyoop]

Alleyoop

[steve]

Sorry for the comm failure, Alley. I was talking about the washer/clip for the mod you suggested. Do I need to put those in both axles? This seems to be a common issue and I was hoping someone could give me a hint as to range of size and thickness of the washer/clip/spacer I should hunt down before I start the teardown..

[alleyoop]

The Washers have to be 2" in diameter and the center 1 3/8" in diameter to clear the center rotating piece of the bearing.
The thickness approx 1/16 they come little thinner and little thicker. Make sure the center clears the center part that actually rotates with the axle, if not big enough get a dremel tool and cut out some of the center of the washer to clear the rotating part of the bearing.
Alleyoop

[steve]

Thank you so much!

[alleyoop]

Forgot make sure the HUB FITS THROUGH the washer, it may be closer to 1 1/2 diameter inside hole of washer.

I remember I had to cut out the inside of the washer with my dremel tool, I made a couple of extras but I have so much poop I tried to find them, but the outside diamter is as big as your bearing which should be 2"s .
Alleyoop

[alleyoop]

Here is the Wheel Bearing and a Washer:
Alleyoop

[steve]

Thanks for the added info. As common as this seems to be, one would think that someone would make up a bunch of these and sell them for a couple of bucks each. Largest washer I could find at Home Depot was 1 3/4 with 3/4 hole. Ace is my place for stuff like that but there is not one close. I know a guy who works in a helicopter factory and he might be able to get a couple made up in the machine shop. Aint 3rd sift grand?

[alleyoop]

HAHAHA, it sure is grand, you can do stuff on the side And yes I got mine at ACE.
Alleyoop

[steve]

Well, I couldn't get the machined washers, but the guy who is helping me works in the carbon fiber shop where they build rotors for the helicoptors. He made me 2 carbon fiber spacers using the same materials and processes that are used on the rotor spars. I probably have spacers that cost more than the trike!

[alleyoop]

The Filler washers will help in keeping the axle from moving out. I found that the Axle splines on the end are tapered so as to make it easy for the hub to go on. But because of that if the axle moves out a little that little bit makes the end of the outside of the hub to make the wheel wobble and can ruin the hubs splines which are softer metal than the axle.
Good luck let us know how those filler washers work out for you. I know mine have not loosened up in over 8K miles since I found what was happening and used the big washers in between the Bearing and the "C" clip to take up the space.
Alleyoop