What type of oil do I need to use? By mela (Read 32,949 times)

[mela]

Hi,
I was told that I could use 10/40 oil in the scooter but are we talking about the same type of oil that I would put in my automobile?
Or would it be the oil that I would put in my motorcycle that has 6 speed shift transmission?



Any assistance would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Mel

I have a Bali Roketa 250cc, 2006 scooter.
, I have No. 2 – the CFMOTO / Honda Helix Clone.
My engine cylinder is vertically under the seat and the spark plug is under the seat area.
My serial number starts with 5RYSG ,

[yoster]

Any 10/40 or 15/40 automotive oil will be fine. If you already picked up motorcycle oil, then that's fine as well.

[mcalli]

Any 10/40 but using a motorcycle 10/40 oil, which is meant for hotter engines, is good also.

[bhinch]

Hi...there is a difference in engine oil and transmission gear oil..... 10W40 for the engine....... and 75/90WT gear lube for the transmission...

[cptk]

Some of what matters is where you live and ride. For where I live and ride I use 20-50w regular oil. 20-40w is also good. But unless your area gets cold then you do not need to use 10-30w or 10- 40w. Check out your owners manual. Even though it is written in chinglish you should be able to determine what is best for your riding. Check with Scooter he has a BS in PCSTT. 10-30w or 10-40w is good for -10 to + 40 celsius. 20-50w or 20-40w is good for 5 to 45-50 celsius or 20 degress farienhiet to around 100 degress.

[Bong]

Oil can be a very slippery subject. Kind of like a religion to some folks. What does the manual say to use???

10w 40 like your car is just fine. Just make sure it's changed often!!!! I change mine every 500 miles religiously . A bit much I know but-

It's easy to do and doesn't cost a lot so, no matter what grade or brand you decide on, I think the best tip Is just to change it out often. That's the easiest thing you can do prolong the life of your scoot IMO!!!!

BTW, I use Shell Rotella T 15w40 You may wanna go with Castrol Or Moble 1!! Just make sure to stay on top of the maintinance

[speedracer]

I have always used 10w 40 Mobile 1 4T motorcycle oil for my scooter, however the last change a few days ago I went with Valvoline 20W 50 for the hot summer we are having, and it's made for motorcycles.

[paulpaul]

I use am soil 10/40 high Zinc. In 2004 our Government told the car industry that the catalytic converter had to last 100,000 miles. Now they say it has to last 150,000 miles. The car manufactures got together with the oil company's an decided the only way they could make that happen was to take the zinc & phosphorus out of oil. That is the shear factor. That means any flat tappet engine can and will wear the cam shaft out with in 15 to 20 thousand miles . If you go to government ratings for oil they tell you about this there. Mobile 1 and all oils with the exception of some racing oil are now not good for scooters with flat tappet engines. You can use an additive that puts the zinc and phosphorus back in the oil or buy am soil high zinc. There are a few other oils that are this way but you cant buy them at walmart. Thanks Paul

[yoster]

Leave it to an Amsoil guy to bring up a completely dead oil thread

[paulpaul]

I told the truth about the oil. If you would take the time to check it out you would not be leaving messages like this one.

[JR]

For sure there has been many debates on the oil thing and it's just like ones favorite brand of automobile some drive one while others swear by another. There are lots of good oils and advice out there and the main thing is keep on top of your oil changes and IMO choose oils for the condions you ride in makes a lot of sense to me.

It's been a real torch this summer and I use a 20W/50W when it's this hot and in the bitter cold I go to a 5W/30W and this has solved me well over the years.

JR

[paulpaul]

This is something our government did not tell you about oil. The off the shelf oil are not good for flat tappet motor. ZDDP Engine Oil - The Zinc Factor

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Because the EPA wants a minimum 100,000-mile lifespan from catalytic converters, they need a fighting chance at survival. Zinc in the oil undermines that survival. That's why both the automakers and Washington decided zinc had to be eliminated from engine oil.

Without zinc in the oil, wear for vintage engines with flat tappet cams increases exponentially. In fact, it is alarming how quickly it happens and how much damage it does. Zinc is crucial not just for cold start-up, but extreme conditions that make heavy-duty engine oils necessary for reliable operation. There's no magic in heavy-duty engine oil, just higher levels of ZDDP to help reduce wear.

The first thing you want to know about engine oil is if it has an "SM" rating, which indicates greatly reduced or zero zinc levels, which makes it harmful to your classic Mustang's engine. Do not use engine oil with the "SM" rating. Or, if you're going to use engine oil with the "SM" rating, use a zinc additive that will maintain proper ZDDP levels. Front and center for this issue is California, which wants all zinc eliminated from engine oil. Regardless of what government and industry mandate for engine oil, it is up to you to ensure sufficient zinc levels are maintained when you change or add oil.

ZDDP is crucial to engine wear and break-in issues because so many things need to happen when you fire an engine for the first time. When you fire a vintage engine with flat tappets for the first time and run it at 2,500 rpm for 30 minutes, you are work-hardening the cam lobes to ensure long life. Cam lobes not only move the lifters, pushrods, and valves, they also spin the lifters in their bores for proper function. The lifter and lobe must have sufficient traction for spinning to happen. This is why you don't want to run synthetic oil or friction-reducing additive during break-in. ZDDP helps lifter/lobe traction. It also works into your engine's hardest working parts

Read more: .mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0907_zddp_zinc_additive_engine_oil/viewall.html#ixzz1WhGnlwtf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0907_zddp_zinc_additive_engine_oil/viewall.html#ixzz1WhGnlwtf

I would not know this if someone had not sent a article about this. This is not the only article out there. I went under gov rating for oil and in the ratings it said ,do not use Sm rated oils in flat tappet engines. If I'm wrong please send me an article that proves that. Most people do mot know they have changed all oils even oil we use for years they have changed. the new oils are only good for roller tappet engines. Not trying to be a smart A. I realize I'm not always right. But if this is true and i believe it to be . You are hurting your motors and shorting there life. Thanks JR

[Ernie]

If we're changing oil every 500-1,000 miles, I doubt if it's really an issue. I put Castrol 10W-40 in mine and next time maybe Valvoline or Shell.

Ernie