IB PST150-8 "Viking" CDI? By parker2100 (Read 1,553 times)

[parker2100]

Before I actually go out and look, please humor my laziness regarding my question.

Anybody know what kind of CDI my PST150-8 uses? Tried to look online for compatible perforamce CDI's but they list all the PST150's except PST150-8. I don't want to buy a CDI and get it back to find out it is the wrong one and mine is an oddball.

Parker

Attachments:

[tvnacman]

Post a pic of it, is it ac or dc .

John

[alleyoop]

Unless they changed them it is AC CDI, Look at the CDI's TWO PLUG Connector IF IT HAS TWO wires going to it, IT IS A AC CDI if it has ONE WIRE on the TWO PLUG CONNECTOR IT IS A DC CDI.
Alleyoop

And you can order a CDI From TVNACMAN just PM HIM and he will get it to you right away and you will not beat his prices. He ALSO TESTS ANY ELECTRICAL STUFF so you know it works when you get it.

[tvnacman]

Well lets identify if it is ac or dc . Then lets check it electricly and be certain that the cdi is defective. So will wait for a response. To wiring and or a pic with the wires connected.

John

[parker2100]

Thanks all but I think I miscommunicated something. I was hoping not to have to go look (I did mention that I am being lazy, right?). That would involve removing 8 screws and removing the electronics cover.

The CDI is working fine so far. I am interested, in the future, in installing a performance CDI as I have heard good things about an increase in performance. Yes, unless anyone knows off hand, I will be opening it up.

Has anyone installed a performance CDI? Would you recommend it?

Parker

[alleyoop]

Well you better learn not to be so lazy because sooner or later you will be doing some work on the Rear Axle and I can guarantee that. You are lucky you have that one that trike is one of the easiet to get at stuff, Nothing is really covered up.

And yes I have a performance CDI on mine, actually I have three of them and they do produce a little more power, just like in a car if you ever were a hotrodder.
Alleyoop

[parker2100]

I believe you alley. That is why I am trusting you to be there with step-by-step instructions when it happens :/ Think I have to take off the seat bracket if I want to adjust the carb or change the starter.

btw: About what mile range should expect this calamity to happen?

Parker

[alleyoop]

It could happen anytime, always before you jump on it grab the CASTLE NUTS that hole the RIM on the AXLEs and try to move the CASTLE NUT. The axles have a tendancey to move out and that will cause the hub to be loose on the axle and can ruin the splines on the HUB. Also put grease in the differential most trike owners with the OPEN DIFFERENTIAL forget to grease the differential and let it go dry and ruin the worm gears inside.

If the seat does not open up then yes the seat will have to come off to get at the top of the motor to get at the carb.
Alleyoop

[parker2100]

Already Locktit-ed the Castle Nuts and sprayed lithium grease in there a couple weaks ago.

On day one after the PMI I noticed a very slight sound comming from the left wheel and took it apart and noticed there was a tiny bit of play between the Castle Hut and the Axle Hub. Tightened it and it went away but came back in a week. Took it apart again and there was again play between the Castle Nut and Axle Hub. This time added Lock-Tite. Did the same for the other side. Havn't heard the sound since.

Plan to do that every 1000 miles or so. Maybe that will stop or delay Axle problems.

Parker

[alleyoop]

Lock-tite will not help, what is happening is the AXLE itself is moving out and that is what makes the Castle nut loose. But You should have COTTER PINS in the Castle Nut Slot going through the hole in the AXLE. There is a little play between the Bearing inside the AXLE tube and the "C" clip that holds it in. So what you have to do is put a WASHER behind the CASTLE NUT and tighten the castle nut and line a CASTLE SLOT with the hole in the AXLE and put a COTTER PIN in. If you do not have a COTTER pin you are asking for trouble. One guy his did not have cotter pins and the whole HUB and Wheel almost came off while riding the only thing that saved him was the TIRE hitting the FENDER.
Alleyoop


Also look at your Axle tube by each end, and see if you have 2 Bolts on each side one opposite each other Like this: They hold a floating Ring that stops the axle from only moving out so much.

[parker2100]

I have tried, as best I can, to line the head of the Cotter Pin to press on the nut hoping it keeps the nut to the hub with no space to move out.

Trying all that, I figure the Lock-Tite would not hurt. Thinking about removing the Hub Cap so that I can keep on eye on the Castle Nut and adjust on the fly. Think I will go to the hardware store and buy more Cotter Pins (the ones I am using have been removed and put back several times) and adjust the heads to take up more space. Still don't think the Lock-Tite could hurt.

One thing I am worried about though is that I put Lock-Tite between the washers and maybe that kept them from clacking when the Nut was a a little loose but perhaps I removed my early warning.

Thanks for the Heads Up about the bolts.

BTW: The pic of your Cotter Pin shows that the pin is straight. Shouldn't you bend the ends so the pin can't come out? Also you should have less movement if the Cotter Pin Head is all the way in the slot. (I figure you did all that right after the pic was taken but the noobs might think it should be the way it looks in your picture)

[alleyoop]

If you notice 1 cotter pin leg is bent over the outside of the axle so the pin does not come out. That is really all you need just so the cotter pin will not come out. And the cotter pin is there to hold the castle nut in that position so it does not come loose and vibrate completely off.

But like I said if you grab the castle nut and you can rock it back and forth your axle moved out.
Don't worry about hearing a noise if the axle moves out which would make the castle nut be loose on the axle. What happens is your wheel will move up and down on the end of the axle and that is because if you notice the Axle on the end is a little tapered to get the HUB on so the entire hub will move due to the taper when loose and you will hear it. And if you take a peek back there when your riding you will see your entire wheel wobble.
Alleyoop

[parker2100]

Yes I did notice it on your new picture. Thanks alley