Electrical Issue Serious Help Needed By Saber (Read 2,351 times)

[tvnacman]

Saber when checking the stator it should be unplugged from the regulator , the ac readings should be taken from the yellow and white unplugged from the regulator . The problem with that set up is you need the correct regulator and that is where the problem is . I ripped my hair out because of it , some regulators were defective out of the box . Some were just a mismatch . With not tech info its a shot in the dark . I had one regulator charge perfect voltage with dim headlights then one would give me good headlights and overcharge like 16vdc . It was suggested to me to use a ballast resistor witch I should have used and did not . I changed from 6pole 4pin to 11pole stator 7pin regulator My scooter has double headlights I wanted more power . I have the regulators that overcharge with good headlights (use ballast resistor and all will be good)



John

[JR]

Sept 9, 2012 6:37:33 GMT -6 Saber said:

Oem my stator was 8 pole I replaced it twice with an 8 pole. The first 8 pole I replaced it with had a yellow and white wire coming from it the second 8 pole just has 2 yellows. I know from what I've read my voltages are correct from my stator.
I still have the question of should I be reading continuity to ground through the yellow wire that goes to the R/R?

Oem my stator was 8 pole I replaced it twice with an 8 pole. The first 8 pole I replaced it with had a yellow and white wire coming from it the second 8 pole just has 2 yellows. I know from what I've read my voltages are correct from my stator.
I still have the question of should I be reading continuity to ground through the yellow wire that goes to the R/R?


I'm sorry Saber but if you read that then it is wrong. Here are the correct voltages with the R/R plugged up;



With the R/R unplugged you should get 40Vac plus on both the yellow and white wires and be sure to unplug the headlight bulbs with a good stator because if you don't you'll be just like a recent member here and blow the headlight bulbs out. Since you've tested yours without saying this it's another reason I know your stator is not right. Someone sold you a bad stator if your readings are indeed correct. The output you have on the yellow wire which feeds the headlights is not enough to blow them.

I'm not guessing on the voltage output either, I own a 150 with a 8-pole stator and the other day just for kicks I measured the output for the other member who had this problem because it had been a long time since I had done the test.

I'm also at a loss on this high output and needing a load resistor? Only scooters I know of that need a load resistor is ones with a on/off headlight switch to compensate for load when the headlights are off.

With a dang good battery (makes a difference) and a full LED change out my 150 will charge at 14.6 Vdc with the headlights on bright at 4k RPM all day long.

JR

[Saber]

Thanks JR. I went back and verified that at the connector directly off the stator I have these voltages. If I go to the connector at the regulator. I have 40vac on the white unplugged from the regulator and 2.5vac on the yellow unplugged from the regulator. So something is crazy and I hate this because I'm an electrician by trade but without a proper diagram I'm scratching my head. My thought now is short to ground because I read 0 ohms from yellow wire at the R/R while disconnected to ground. Is it time to pull body panels and trace the wire harness?

[JR]

It's possible and you need to check the wires where they go through the rubber grommet coming out of the engine. Sometimes one can pinch one of the wires and they'll cause this.

But my thought here is you have a open circuit on the yellow wire.

JR

[Saber]

Alrighty then. She's getting tore apart tonight. GOOD TIMES. if I find anything I will post results. If I don't find anything I'll be back.

[justbuggin2]

yea you need to trace the wiring harness for shorts to ground and from one circuit to another good luck on finding it i would start by disconnecting the taillights and headlights ant the harness connectors that might help find where the short is

[Saber]

Okay here is what I have so far. All body panels have been pulled off and all bulbs removed. No shorts to ground. If I install just one bulb doesn't matter where I get continuity to ground via the yellow wire that goes to the regulator. So this mean no shorts to ground via the harness.
The only thing I can think of to do now is one by one while the bike is running start putting things back together and see at what point I loose my lights. I did a test yesterday with just the front lights installed and all wires going to the OEM regulator where they are supposed to be. Installed the headlight and the two running lights they where bright did not flicker and didn't blow when I revved the engine. So I will continue with one piece at a time until something changes. Right now I my suspect is the instrument cluster.
Oh the joy of scooter ownership.

Attachments:

[justbuggin2]

would check the taillight harness and sockets next the wires can get shorted out in the sockets by the spring that holds pressure on the bulb base

[Saber]

Sept 11, 2012 6:23:11 GMT -6 justbuggin2 said:

would check the taillight harness and sockets next the wires can get shorted out in the sockets by the spring that holds pressure on the bulb base

Will do thanks for the insight.

[JR]

I have 40vac on the white unplugged from the regulator and 2.5vac on the yellow unplugged from the regulator

Here's the simple thing to do, locate the head/tail light wire that's tied into the yellow wire with this 2.5 Vac with the R/R unplugged it will be a yellow or brown wire going to the dimmer switch and to the tail lights.

Unhook this wire, start the scooter and do another Ac reading. If it still reads 2.5Vac then it's time to replace the stator.

Also if you had a direct short in the system that was effectively killing the voltage on the yellow wire you would find it easy, at 40Vac the shorted wire would have the insulation burnt off.

JR

[Saber]

Okay I'm starting to feel like I'm all over the map here. At the stator I have 30+ vac and when I revve the engine I get 40+ combined. I have 12 to 17 vac on each leg of the stator. This is a constant. After I plug the stator in I maintain the voltage on the white wire off the stator but at the yellow wire it will maintain voltage until I start plugging bulbs in then I get a drop in voltage if I unplug these items the voltage drop is maintained. And I get 0 to 2.5 vac max. If I go back to the stator I still have 12 to 17 vac on that line. I've pulled the wire harness and stripped it I can find any breaks or burns in the line only really crappy solider work. Maybe it's a cold solder joint in the wire? I haven't given up yet but what a PITA.

[JR]

I'm confused? Born that way. Are you testing the white and yellow wire to ground? Again simply put both wires should read the same equally unplugged from the R/R revved up on the tune of 40Vac plus.

Now when you plug things in the yellow wire does carry most of the load but it should read 12Vac plus even with it plugged in and the lights on.

Not trying to sound like a stuck record but all your tests still indicate bad stator.

JR

[Saber]

Sept 12, 2012 10:14:27 GMT -6 JR said:

I'm confused? Born that way. Are you testing the white and yellow wire to ground? Again simply put both wires should read the same equally unplugged from the R/R revved up on the tune of 40Vac plus.

Now when you plug things in the yellow wire does carry most of the load but it should read 12Vac plus even with it plugged in and the lights on.

Not trying to sound like a stuck record but all your tests still indicate bad stator.

JR

Okay maybe I am confused on how I am supposed to be testing it. Stator unplugged I have have 12 to 17 vac to ground on each leg. if I test across yellow and white together I have 40vac?
So are you saying Im supposed to have 40vac on white to ground?

[justbuggin2]

i thinking that what Jr is saying is the case here i have an 8 pole stator and the matching flat 4 pin reg i can send you

[Saber]

Sept 12, 2012 11:20:50 GMT -6 justbuggin2 said:

i thinking that what Jr is saying is the case here i have an 8 pole stator and the matching flat 4 pin reg i can send you

I may just have to accept this but I can't believe I lost my OEM Stator while on the road and it left me there. Then I put on a locally bought Stator it lasts a day before I loose my lights (BIKE STILL RUNS THOUGH) and then the Stator I bought online is DOA?? (But the bike still runs).

Okay starting to accept this.

Justbuggin2 I will PM you. I'm interested.