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Its a scooter not an F-18 or a race bike where 1 horsepower is the difference between winning and losing. If it were going to make a bunch of noise as you say and or not run right Mudville scooters and small engine repair would have no repeat business. His scoots run fine. Hes done ten times the scooters JR has done. Not being a smart arse just fact. Don't mean to come off so harsh. Just the way it is. I'm sure JR is a fine guy, Heck , look at this website ! I'm not so small a man that I won't eat crow if I have to. If it runs bad or makes excessive noise and / or has poor performance I promise I will be honest and take back what I have said. PS almost all OHC engines call for .004 intake, .006 exhaust. Most I have messed with anyway. OHV engines tend to have more forgiving larger clearances.

While I'm waiting for my parts to get here I went ahead and adjusted my valves to make the JCL quit stalling at stops. I hope it works . One thing I can say is the valves had almost 0 clearance when I checked them before I adjusted them. What in the heck were those Chinese thinking ? Anyway, I adjusted them both (intake & exhaust) at .008 instead of the factory recomendations per Jeff at Muddville scooters and small engine repair. I know, I know, Iknow, Sounds like an awful big gap" But I ain't going back in this scooter this deep to adjust valves again" He said those clearances will insure that I won't have to adjust them again and the scooter will run fine.

Beautiful work JR.. Highly useful. BTW, Anybody needing a starter clutch for a Linhai 250 (257cc) the link JR. was nice enough to provide is out of stock (maybe only temporarally). But if you need one now Absolutelyscooters has them for about a dollar more to your door.

The nut that holds the flywheel on is about 24 mm. I didn't have a metric socket this big. But I did have a 15/16 socket that fit real nice and worked with the impact wrench (don't think I needed it). Pull the timing chain cover off (same cover you take off to time the valves for a valve adjustment) and keep the motor from turning over by sticking a screw driver in the cam chain and sprocket. Mark the three allen bolt holes with a perminant marker in the fly wheel. You will want to use the same three holes to bolt the flywheel back on after you put the new starter clutch on so it will still be balanced. This may not be totally neccessary. But I'm kind of anal about balance. Now take the three allen bolts out and pull the flywheel. Now slip the starter clutch off. It should slip right off after removing the flywheel and key from the keyway. I was advised by Jeff at Mudville Scooter and small engine repair to pull the flywheel with starter clutch still attached. But when I did it this way the key interfeared with the starter clutch comeing off after the flywheel. So I will change this proceedure by unbolting the flywheel from the starter clutch first before removal as already stated.

Here is pic of the Linhai 257cc with the side case popped off after all ten 8 mm bolts, exhaust and such removed. Exposing the Stater,flywheel, and starter clutch (bolted to back of flywheel) PS Stater is in the cover and you can't see them in this pic.

Sorry about the picture delay. This is what I get for not knowing how to do it myself I'm way to busy to learn anything lol Have to depend on the girlfriend and getting a bachelors degree at 50 aint easy. So shes been darn busy. Anyway, Nuff of the excuses. Finally bought a $60 to my door replacment starter clutch off Ebay. The guy had the right picture with the right word discriptions + meassurments. So Even though the other ebayers were clowns I figured it was worth a try with this guy. At least he (the seller) had enough sense to know giving meassurments was important. The other sellers with thier starter clutches could care less if you got the correct part from them. Knowing that I bet 60% or more of people won't be bothered with shipping it back when its incorrect. Pics tomorrow if I have anything to do with it.