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Post by jstluise on Apr 23, 2013 11:05:03 GMT -6
Time to adjust the valves would be my suggestion. Try .004 inches on the intake and .005 inches on the exhaust. Sounds good. After I posted, I checked out the FSM and the maintenance intervals show the valves should have been adjusted 4 times already! Looks like I've been slacking. I'll adjust the valves. Should I follow the adjustment procedure for the the carb pilot screw and throttle stop screw? The FSM says the pilot screw is factory pre-set and no adjustment is necessary...so I guess not? Also, for the valves, the FSM has 0.04mm for the intake and exhaust. 0.04mm = 0.0016". Is 0.004" for the intake and 0.005" for the exhaust the tried and true clearances for the GY6? Thanks!
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Post by jstluise on Apr 22, 2013 17:28:23 GMT -6
2009 Kymco Agility 125, 12,000 km
On my drive home last week I came to a stop and noticed a sudden drop in my idle. The engine did not die, but it was pretty close. I kept the revs up while at the stop. Everything off idle is normal and it drives fine. Prior to this, the idle was normal. Seemed like a sudden change. It was raining during the 45 minute ride, but I've had it worse weather without issues.
This morning I started it up and it has the normal high idle (auto-choke works). But, after the warm up, I pulled out and it died at the next stop I made. Still had a low idle.
I have never done any adjustment to the carb or anything else on the engine. New plug ~2,000km ago, though the original plug still looked fine. New air filter around the same time.
Wondering if a carb adjustment is in order? Or valve adjustment? Could a bad auto-choke be causing this? Just seems weird that it happened all of a sudden instead of a gradual change.
Any info would be appreciated!
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Post by jstluise on Sept 9, 2012 15:50:07 GMT -6
Well I believe I am finished with the conversion and everything is looking great! Wiring the white wire up to the autochoke + headlight relay worked just fine. I learned a couple things about the white wire voltage after I did some testing:
1) The voltage on the white wire is inversely proportional to the RPM. ie A higher RPM produces a lower voltage, A lower RPM produces a higher voltage.
2) White wire voltage increases as the electrical load on the system (not the load on the white wire) increases. For example, the white wire voltage with the headlights on will be higher than when the headlights are off.
So, my initial concern was when I has no load on the system (before I had everything wired up). I was seeing 5-8 volts which made me nervous. But, after getting everything wired up I was seeing voltages closer to 10 and up to 12 depending on the loading. Regardless, the autochoke is working fine and the white wire has no problem tripping my headlight relay.
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Post by jstluise on Sept 5, 2012 22:57:42 GMT -6
Sounds good! I didn't think it would be too big of a deal, just wanted to check. JR, those numbers I gave were at idle; I forgot to see how it responded to varying RPM. It could be I just checked it before the RPMs dropped down after the startup.
I'll keep the auto choke on the white wire. It seemed to do the job just fine, the engine settled down to a nice idle.
Best part of this upgrade is how steady the charging voltage is...it was sitting at around 14.2 VDC is wouldn't vary at any RPM! The battery was still charging so it may be more, I'll keep an eye on it.
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Post by jstluise on Sept 5, 2012 13:17:03 GMT -6
I'm just finishing up my 11 pole, 7 wire R/R upgrade and everything is coming together nicely and working good. Started up and ran great on the first go, with a nice regulated voltage at the battery.
I do have a question about the white wire, which goes to the auto bystarter (enricher). From what I read it should be around 10.8 VDC, which it was....but then it dropped down around 8.5-9 VDC after the scoot ran for a while.
I wouldn't be concerned, but I plan on using the white wire to activate a RIB relay for my headlight circuit, which required 10-30VDC. I'm afraid the voltage may be too low...
I'm going to do some more testing, but just wanted to put this out there. Should the white wire voltage fluctuate this much?
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Post by jstluise on Aug 12, 2012 18:04:20 GMT -6
Great sounds good! Yeah, I have no idea why they have it wired up the way they do (grounding the trigger wire).
I'll disconnect and the rest will be easy. I went through all the wiring yesterday to make sure there weren't any surprises when it came to the re-wire; this was the only one.
Have a make a run to get some wire, and I am still waiting on some connectors from digikey. Then I'll be able to get this project done with!
Thanks for the help!
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Post by jstluise on Aug 12, 2012 17:47:50 GMT -6
Yes let me look the diagrm over again and we'll put our heads together and make it work. Cool, thanks! From the sounds of it, there really isn't a reason for the trigger wire to be switched to ground when the ignition is off (is there?). If that is the case, then I'll simply disconnect it and wire up the kill switch as planned.
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Post by jstluise on Aug 12, 2012 17:17:44 GMT -6
I guess I should have been more succinct with my last post. I understand completely how the kill wire is wired and works, but the issue was the existing connection of the trigger wire circuit to the ignition switch.
If you look at the wiring diagram you will see that the L/Y wire (highlighted in cyan) from the trigger coil is wired to the CDI AND the N.C. terminal of the ignition switch. This grounds the trigger circuit when the key is off.
The N.C. terminal on the ignition switch is what I want to use for my kill switch, but it is already occupied and I don't know if connecting to it (without disconnecting the trigger wire from the ignition switch) will cause any problems.
I hope that makes more sense now.
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Post by jstluise on Aug 12, 2012 0:23:20 GMT -6
Well I got out and did some testing on the electrical system. Here is what I found.
The kill switch on my scoot (the one on the handlebar) is in line with the B/L wire off the DC CDI. So, it interrupts the DC power supply to the DCI to kill the engine; it DOES NOT ground the trigger wire like I suspected.
Therefore, in order to keep my kill switch working, all I have to do is disconnect the power side of the kill switch and connect it to ground. No problem. This will ground the kill wire of the CDI and kill the motor when the kill switch is used.
To kill the engine using the key, the B/L wire from the CDI should also be connected to the IG terminal on the ignition switch (see schematic that I posted before). This will ground the wire when the key is turned off.
There, now the engine can be killed by either the kill switch, or the key.
But, the problem I see is that the trigger wire is already wired to the IG terminal, and I am not sure if wiring the B/L wire from the CDI to this same terminal will cause issues or not. Essentially, this shorts the kill switch wire and the trigger coil wire. I see a couple options:
1) Disconnect the trigger wire from IG on the ignition switch. This will no longer ground the trigger wire when the key is turned off. I am not sure what the purpose of grounding this wire is in the first place, so maybe this would not be a good idea.
2) Test to see if grounding the trigger wire will kill the engine. If this is the case, the wiring to the ignition switch can remain the same because turning the key off will ground the trigger wire and kill the motor.
Unless someone can come up with answers about the purpose (and effect...ie does it kill the motor?) of grounding the trigger wire, I guess some testing will be required. If the grounding the trigger wire doesn't do anything, the motor will remain running after the key is off, since the AC CDI isn't dependent on the DC power from the R/R.
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Post by jstluise on Aug 10, 2012 10:07:25 GMT -6
The setup will work just fine with the AC CDI. Even on the DC setups the igntion switch is the same. The key switch is a two way switch as in N/O and N/C. The AC type CDI works just like the DC one so simply use the L/Y wire to the kill wire location on the new AC type CDI. Also this means that your side stand switch will work just as it always did and your emergency kill switch on the handle also. This will be a simply install. JR That's good to hear! That will simplify the install of the new AC CDI a bit. All I will have to do is hook up the AC power wire from the stator, and disconnect the B/L wire from the CDI plug (which was originally used for DC power on the DC CDI). Thanks!
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Post by jstluise on Aug 10, 2012 1:03:33 GMT -6
Well if you have ground at the kill switch and the the AC CDI has a pin just for a kill circuit . I would just pull a wire from the switch to the cdi . I'm not sure on your scooter are you sure it grounds out the trigger ? Could it be interupting the dcv feed from the ignition switch , so could it be power at the kill switch and not ground ? Jojn Well its no problem me wiring up the kill switch to the AC-CDI. It would just be one less thing I would have to do if the current circuit works. The ignition switch does ground out the trigger, but it also disconnects the DC power to the CDI, now that I look at it more closely. So, its not necessarily the grounding of the trigger that is killing the engine. The wiring diagram doesn't show the KILL SWITCH, which would ultimately tell me everything...I guess I'll have to go check it out on the scoot. Well it looks like I posted this prematurely...I'll have to go check out the wiring on the scoot. FWIW, here is the part of the wiring diagram: When the ignition is ON, BAT1 & BAT2 are connected. When the ignition is OFF, IG & E are connected (thus, grounding the L/Y trigger wire).
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Post by jstluise on Aug 10, 2012 0:18:34 GMT -6
Getting ready for some rewiring on the 11 pole upgrade and DC-to-AC CDI conversion. Quick question about the kill switch.
With the existing setup (DC CDI), the kill switch functions by grounding the PICKUP COIL TERMINAL (TRIGGER WIRE) on the CDI.
The AC CDI has a terminal devoted to the kill switch (ground terminal to kill). But, I was wondering: Will grounding the TRIGGER WIRE with the AC CDI still result in killing the ignition?
If it does, then it will save me some rewiring because the circuitry to ground the TRIGGER WIRE already exists, and I can just leave the kill switch terminal on the AC CDI disconnected.
I could swear I ran across something on the forums that said it would, but I can't seem to find it again...
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Post by jstluise on Aug 6, 2012 12:59:15 GMT -6
Thanks, JR. I'm sorry to hear about your mother...my condolences.
We are on the same page now after your clarification. The biggest thing that cleared the air was this:
For the life of me I could not see how rotating the stator would change the timing, UNLESS the trigger coil was mounted on the same plate as the stator. Then it would all make sense.
You are right that the new flywheel will cause issues because of the new location of the pickup magnet. Using the OEM flywheel is the way to go.
I think we can call this problem solved. I will respond with an update once I get the new CDI and everything wired up.
I do have one question that may deserve another thread, but its quick. Does the housing of the 7-pin R/R need to be grounded (via the mounting bolts)? The reason I ask is I found a good spot to mount it (since it is so big compared to my other R/R, it won't fit in the same spot), but it involves mounting it to plastic, instead of metal like the old one. If it does require grounding, I'll have to make a ground strap to go from the mounting bolt to a spot on the frame.
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Post by jstluise on Aug 6, 2012 0:41:40 GMT -6
Before I respond to your entire post/instructions, I think I need to gain a better understanding how the stator/flywheel/pickup coil work together. It seems I am confused with some terminology and how the engine timing is accomplished. You answered your own question and sorry I did mean the trigger coil. I'm fully aware of the fact the kymco does not have the independant coil for AC power to the CDI but it does have the trigger coil and a seperate magnet like in your picture to pass by the pick up coil when the piston is at or extremely close to TDC. If the magnet is not placed in relation to TDC then the scooter will pop, misfire and act stupid. So I was using "Trigger Coil" and "Pickup Coil" interchangeably because I thought they were the same thing, but from the sounds of it they are two separate components....? I thought trigger/pickup coil was referring to the coil mounted outside of the flywheel which sends a signal to the CDI when the trigger/pickup magnet (which is mounted on the OD of the flywheel) passes by it It sounds like you are saying the "Trigger Coil" is a coil on the stator, and the "Pickup Coil" is the externally mounted coil to signal to the CDI. Is this correct? I've looked at the Kymco 8 pole stator and all the coils look the same to me... My understanding was this: the stator simply supplies AC power to the R/R and CDI (in Kymcos case, just the R/R, which gives us DC for the CDI). The flywheel has a pickup magnet mounted on it so that when it passes by the pickup coil, the CDI gets a signal at that point of the cranks rotation (TDC). The signal tells the CDI that the engine is at TDC (or close to it), and the CDI adjusts the timing based off the engine speed. As far as the stator having any influence on timing, I don't see it. In between fires, the capacitors in the CDI are charged via the stator, but rotating the stator's mounting position will only change what point in time the CDI is charged (in the AC CDI case). I'm curious, but I doubt it takes one full rev (in between fires) to charge the CDI. If it does take exactly one full rev (8 magnets passing over the CDI charging coil), then the position of the stator must be precise...but still, this has no effect on timing, just charging for the CDI. What really drives it home for me is to think about the DC CDI setup. First, the CDI receives constant power (DC) for charging the capacitors, thus the mounting location of the stator has no effect on the power supply to the CDI. Second, from just looking at how everything is wired up, the only communication with the CDI is power (DC from the R/R) and the pickup coil...nothing from the stator. This tells me timing is only controlled by the relationship between the pickup magnet and the pickup coil. Basically, I just need to know how it is possible to retard/advance the timing by rotating the mountain location of the stator. I am missing something. The only way I see to retard/advance the timing is to move the location of the pickup magnet that is mounted on the flywheel. In my case, I am using the original flywheel with the new 11 pole stator, so I don't foresee having any timing issues. Obviously you have encountered this problem before and rotating the stator was the solution, so I just want to know why. I really appreciate all the help! I always like to learn!
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Post by jstluise on Aug 4, 2012 10:09:48 GMT -6
Wow thanks guys for the help! Very good stuff! Lay your old stator out exactly like the position it is mounted on your scooter. If need be draw a straight cross of lines on a piece of cardboard or very this sheet metal for a template put it on the scooter with a hole in the center so the crankshaft will go through and then make reference holes on the template for how the stator bolts on. Then place your old stator on the template and mark a center mark of where the CDI pick up coil is. Then place the new stator on the template and compare. If the new stator pick up coil lines up with the old mark then you're good to go use the old flywheel . If not then you've got to do this; Could you explain this a little more? I am confused because you are making reference to the pickup (trigger) coil when talking about the stator, and they are independent of each other (as far as mounting goes). Are you talking about the independent coil on the stator that is used for the CDI? If that is the case, I don't understand why the location of the matters. For that matter, I don't understand why the position that the stator is mounted in matters at all; all we care about are the magnets passing over the stator coils. Unless one of the flywheel magnets must be precisely over one of the stator coils at a certain position of the crankshaft (TDC?), then I could see there being an issue, but the adjustment is small since there are 8 magnets on the symmetric flywheel...I guess you have a 45 degree adjustment angle (360/8). There must be a relationship between the stator coil, flywheel, and trigger coil that I am not aware of. Also, remember my original Kymco stator doesn't have an independent coil for the CDI because the Kymco CDI is DC. If this needs to be done, I'll pop it on the mill at work; I'll have more precision that I'll probably need. I have to agree I saw mixed responses about the AC vs. DC CDI. I AC CDI makes sense for the reasons you mentioned and I'm sure I won't notice an difference between either as far as performance goes. I do have to say I was in the situation of a dead battery with the scoot cold...there was no way I could have kick started it (I tried..a lot). I have kick started it without a battery, but the scoot was warm. So it is possible...just not easy in some situations. Yep, I got the 7-pin R/R from John. I have no questions about it and the wiring is straight forward. Right now it was just the flywheel/CDI situation we were dealing with. I like the benefits of the AC CDI...especially since it runs off its own stator coil; I can imagine the DC CDI sucks a lot of juice out of my system before...this would be an issue since I want to run an extra lamp on my scoot (won't be an issue with the 11 pole stator). Thanks again! John will be sending me an AC CDI soon so I can running. Please let me know about the stator mounting position questions that I posed above.
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