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Post by bobf on Nov 30, 2013 19:48:10 GMT -6
Not sure about which part you are talking about. So I will make a guess. The black floor piece between the rear engine part and the front steering part. If so, let me say this to you. If wrong just ignore what I have said.
First, you must take off the metal strips for you feet. Then you will find a number of screws holding the rubber part down on both sides. Then you will need to loosen up both the rear panels so you can move them aside to get the rubber from underneath the panels. Also need to loosen the two front panels so you can get them out of the way as you work the front of the rubber part loose. The rubber part needs to be loose all around so that it can be maneuvered around as you try to lift it out.
That is the way I originally did it. Since then I do things a bit different
If it was me now doing it, I would completely remove the rear panels and put them aside for now. That means taking the box off, removing all the screws on the panels. Be careful at the rear as they like to stay together. There are items at the rear that need to be removed also. A small panel under the tail lights needs removed. Also follow the wire on the right hand side from the tail lights to a connector, I believe it was just a slip connector, and take it apart to free the light and the panels to be picked up and moved to the side away from the scoot. Be careful while handling the panels as they are still somehow connected at the rear. Try to not break something.
If you don't want to take the side panels completely off they would be free to just push them back a bit while you do whatever work you want to do. You can tip them a bit to one side or the other. This way you won't need to remove the lock on the left side. To remove the lock you move the panels enough to get behind the left panel and work the keeper out from behind the panel and work the cables free. Then you can remove the lock so you can move the panels away.
Either way, off or just moved to the rear, you will free the rear of the rubber foot pad. Making it much easier to get the rubber pad off or back on. .
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Post by bobf on Nov 30, 2013 14:11:18 GMT -6
scot, I don't ever take the cap off my radiator unless for some reason the overflow tank goes down or dry. Just check the slot below the overfill bottle looking for fluid level in the slot below the cap.
I would never ride below the 40 degrees temps. And I also find it hard to ride when the temps down here get to the high 90 degrees temps. I may have ridden short runs at over 100 degrees but will never try when we get into the 110 to 115 degrees ranges. Highest temp I have seen down here was 117 degrees but I was in my car with the cooler going full blast and at home with the A/C keeping the house at 79 degrees. .
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Post by bobf on Nov 30, 2013 13:24:35 GMT -6
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Post by bobf on Nov 30, 2013 9:13:12 GMT -6
JR, thanks for the offer. I have Win 7 and use FireFox.
Any help is appreciated. I was going to try to see if any of my selections when joining might be the problem. So suggest away. .
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Post by bobf on Nov 30, 2013 8:32:53 GMT -6
yes it looks like there is no overflow that I can see there ,I will do that an slow ,to.i so thank you for takeing you the time to do this ,I will try to load the pics you sent to me ,.looks like they don't make it easy to get to ,but even if I just take few days doinga little hear an there being careful ,knowing when to walk away ,an come back ,its one thing I learned I used to just break stuff ,on thse thoug I don't want to take that chance ,I will get the cap on tank back on tight ,then follow the steps you said ,I will print it out ,I figure worse case is cap was leaking ,then I knew ,or now know how is come part an give me chanceto check out the guts I did this on my kfx 700 though was easy to acess thing my dl 1000 the same ,thse are all closed up like a sport bike ,probley even more so,I just put the floor plates on ,its ok though ,oh I see the cheap clamp they use in 2nd pic ,I think it will be worth doing just to clean up any fluids that got on thing in there an wipe it clean ,I notice the pdi service ,was not very good ,though I do think no one does it the way we would ,the right way right thanks The bottle up front is for an overflow condition. As the engine heats up the water expands and then goes thru the hose into the overflow bottle. If too much in the bottle it will go out the overflow pipe at the front of the bottle. When the water cools down in the engine it will shrink again and pull some of the water from the overflow tank back into the radiator. I think if you keep the water to about half way up the bottle when cool and you look at it from outside is fine. Check in the slot below the fill cap. Too much and there will be an overflow next time the engine heats up.
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Post by bobf on Nov 30, 2013 8:20:25 GMT -6
Thank you scot. It looks like I have a problem in my PC. I could not post those picks but you did.
Time for me to do some work on my PC . Maybe something in my Proboards connection or ScooterProfessor setup or something else. Some more time consuming efforts for me.
When you do work on your scoot, take your time, take some pictures if you can. I did just that myself, had a lot of photo's and notes on my computer. Then had a problem with my computer. Lost lots of my photo records of what I was doing and notes too. Just try not to have a PC problem destroy your inputs. .
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Post by bobf on Nov 29, 2013 19:47:05 GMT -6
Scot, an answer to the question about what to take off. For the most part of your learning about the scoot and how it all goes together, start to take it apart and try not to short cut your learning, it can't be done.
To get to what you see here on my scoot or the one that JR showed you need to do this much. 1. Remove the metal treads on each side. 2. Remove the seat. 3. Take out the front and top screws on each side panel so you can swing each side wide to get the floor pan off. 4. Remove the panels under the foot rests on each side. 5. Remove the screws on each side panel where the floor section meets them. Some more wiggle room needed to help get the floor panel loose.
Now that you have the floor panel loose you will have to carefully twist and work it till you an get it free of the scooter and then lift it off. Till then you can not see or consider doing anything of value. I just explained how I took the short cut to removing the floor panel as I had a gas leak from my tank. Tried to go the short cut and found it all to be more work than had I just took off the front and rear panels to begin with. Which is what I do now if needing to really get inside and work.
Best take your time and systematically remove panels and other items to make it easy for you to check things out and service your machine. This is a complex machine and the panels and such really need to come off first and on last. Or a lot of twisting and forcing is need to do the job.
Take your time and do a great job while you are at it. .
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Post by bobf on Nov 29, 2013 19:27:19 GMT -6
Scot, glad you received my photo's by email. Now could you try a test of my photo's and see if you can post them both here on the web. This will help me find what is wrong with my computer that it will not set the photo's so I can post them here. Maybe it is not my computer but a test should help decide that. I spent lots of time today and not once could I get any photo's to take on this forum. Sure would like some help if you can. .
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Post by bobf on Nov 29, 2013 9:52:20 GMT -6
does anyone have a picture of the radiator basically with plastic taken off so one can see the cooling tank ,though like I guess I had said ,I need to see what things look like in mine as I am sure doing my own work will be a good thing so will take it part at some point an see what looks like ,an get the vasoline out I can do that later today. But right now the wife is wanting me to take her out shopping. I am in charge, and like it, so I will certainly do as she wishes so I can remain in charge. .
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Post by bobf on Nov 29, 2013 9:48:18 GMT -6
this 2013 has the hump on the seat I wonder id the box is worth putting on it ,I only plan to ride about 15 miles one way ,no long trips till I am sure this thing is reliable I guess certain things we have to find out for ourselves ,are the shocks adjustable I had thought someone said they were I did not take close look yet ,I imagine if one takes parts from the Honda they could have a smother ride suspention working on loading the bigger pics time for bed soon thanks everyone sorry my spelling stinks oh ya spell check I am feeling lazy today I put the box on and use it for holding my helmet, gloves, and the tool pack that came with the scooter. While riding there is room for a few items from the store and while not riding the helmet and gloves are always handy. ..
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Post by bobf on Nov 28, 2013 20:26:28 GMT -6
ellpee, thank you for that correction. I blew it on that location. Right you are, it is under the little trap door in the area behind the battery box and cover. You are absolutely correct as my machine is also noted to be a MC 54 250 B on the body, but to see how Roketa has handled that go to this link. .roketa.com/product/productlist/2610.shtml" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.roketa.com/product/productlist/2610.shtmlScroll down through the list of product till you find the ones marked MC 54 250 and MC 54B 250. I have no idea where that extra B at the end came from. I have never found a reference to it anywhere either. Click on either one 'for sale parts and menu'. Check the engines in them and it matches what I know about them to be true. 54 is 244cc and 54B is 257cc. Now for the YY250T, to me it means nothing to the scooter as it is a California designation and lists lots of things under a same or similar designation. .arb.ca.gov/msprog/onroad/cert/hmc/2010/benzhou_m1590006_250-257-275_0d8_h.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.arb.ca.gov/msprog/onroad/cert/hmc/2010/benzhou_m1590006_250-257-275_0d8_h.pdf*** I can not copy or print this document. So suggest looking to the link I have posted. There are many YY250T designations on this document. All concerning air quality. If someone knows this to be untrue, please post to me about it. It seems that many folks around the world are using these numbers to be scooter designations. I think this number is more of recognition of clean air standard than a scooter designation. But I could be wrong too. I will try to chase my concerns even further. Far too much confusion going on in my mind. .
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Post by bobf on Nov 28, 2013 11:52:40 GMT -6
JR, that may be obvious to you but to me not so obvious. Until you just posted this difference I would have never known. I still think something more direct than YY250T should be used. That is just a grouping number and not decisive at all as to which machine it is telling about.
So now I will know that a longer looking CVT cover means 244cc engine and a stubby looking CVT cover means 257cc engine.
But how about that other new comers that do not know about such tiny differences. Like me. For the most parts these scoots are identical when looking at them.
I tried to copy the pictures from the Roketa catalog but for some reason they would not copy for me. Maybe catalog protection of some sort. But it is just the length of the silver part is longer on the vertical engine, from the rear wheel center toward the engine. .
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Post by bobf on Nov 28, 2013 6:57:35 GMT -6
First for the readers that might be able to help, tell us about your scoot. Make, engine size, are both helps for fixing comments.
EDIT: I guess I failed to read your post title. That almost tells me what I was suggesting to be told. But scooter name helps localize any problems and the 250 is just a generic size. They come in both the horizontal 257cc or the vertical 244cc engines. Things are a bit different with those changes.
I have a MC 54 250 with a vertical 244cc engine and the overflow water tank is under the front raised floor board next to the gas tank. I have the reservoir tank filled to just about the fill opening. It seems to be adequate, no overheating and no overflow when engine is hot. If you have MC 54B 250 you will have a horizontal 257cc engine. They are similar but some differences so I can not speak for that machine.
Now for the radiator. It is under the seat. Take the battery cover off and you will see the radiator fill cap. I fill that to the top and seldom ever open that area. As long as the overflow is working that will keep the radiator from loosing coolant when hot and will also allow the cooling radiator to suck back any excess coolant that went into the reservoir.
My scoot is a 2008 model so there may be some differences. .
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Post by bobf on Nov 26, 2013 10:50:56 GMT -6
Just what I have and always left it connected between rides - until I got a surprise away from home. Now I occasionally leave it unconnected for a few days to see if the battery is still good.
What happened after about 3 years of always being connected was a 3 mile run to the post office. When I came out the battery was dead. Fortunately a guy in a pick up was next to me and he helped jump my scoot with his battery so I could get home.
Now I have intervals of boost or none. I hope this will tell me something if the battery is beginning to fail, before I get caught away from home again. .
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Post by bobf on Nov 12, 2013 20:43:21 GMT -6
My doings. I have no reports or justifications, just prefer to not totally abandon things.
In Colorado at 6,300 ft I would always keep it on a battery tender. If a warm day arrived I might just take it out for a short ride in town. If no warm days then once a week I would start it up and warm it up, then shut it down. Of course in warmer weather I would ride when in the mood.
Now while living in south Arizona at 1,200 ft, lung problems at high altitude, I keep it on the battery tender again, but having learned the hard way I will now take it off the tender for a few days of idle and see if it can still start the engine. This fall I unhooked the tender, drove 3 miles to the post office, shut down, went inside to mail some letters, Came back out and the scoot would not start. Soon a guy in a pickup pulled in and he gave me a jump start. Now I do a periodic battery check before going on a ride.
Well, down here, I don't ride much in the summer with temps in the high 90's on up to 117 one day. More than I wish to handle. But now in the fall till likely late June I will have the weather and temps to allow a ride.
In both cases I have used Sea Foam. I assume it is working as I have not had carb problems so far.
I just think that mechanical items not used, neglected, will fail on their own. Occasional use will keep them awake and if something comes up in the down time season, you should find and fix so your are ready for riding season.
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