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Post by bobf on Dec 9, 2013 6:57:37 GMT -6
Bob -- there's a Harbor Freight on the northwest side of Tucson, Ina Road exit 248, then about a mile east -- north side of the street, sits back a little ways from the street. If you get to the Ina Road/Thornydale Road intersection you've gone a tad too far. As I recall Casa Grande is something like exit 205, so 45 minutes or so at 75mph? Either way, it is further than going to Tempe, which is up in the Phoenix area. Town after town, all considered to be Phoenix. I did your suggestion and it turns out the mileage is this. CG to Tempe is 43.4mi 47 minutes. CG to Tucson is 59.3mi 53 minutes. Maybe Tucson first if I was also going to include some friends living there. . |
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Post by bobf on Dec 8, 2013 18:57:24 GMT -6
JR, at sears they have a different style that might do the job and only cost about $90. It is a lift that must go under the scoot or motorcycle and then lifts same on a large pad. I am not sure it would work with the scoot like I have as I think the plastics go below the hard frame parts. Not sure but wondering how someone on this forum might have seen or used one like this. Many lifts similar to this are on the market. I may prefer the larger drive on type as you suggested JR. Just more to add to my searching. And yes, another question about the style you posted. The 113" length is for the platform. How long would the collapsed lift be? I live in a newer city style house with minimum garage space. The first time I entered the garage my car poked a hole in the wall. If I ever get my Colorado home sold I will relocate to some place more older or find a three car garage with extra space in the garage length. With home built by custom builders or out in the more rural areas do have more space in their garages. In these quickie neighborhoods that get built in these newer cities you get very little yard and cheepo garages. My garage that I had built on my Cortez CO home was 27 feet long and two car with individual doors so there was room to walk around both cars and still had room ahead of my full size Lincoln TC for the scoot to sit and room to walk around it on both sides and still room for a work bench and storage cabinets on the wall. .sears.com/craftsman-motorcycle-atv-jack/p-00950190000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .sears.com/craftsman-motorcycle-atv-jack/p-00950190000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 . |
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Post by bobf on Dec 8, 2013 14:14:15 GMT -6
OK JR, I must correct my knowledge of the Phoenix area. I said Tempe was north of the Phoenix area and it is not, it is actually south of the Phoenix area and likely my nearest point to see HF store. The others get further away from my access point. The Phoenix area is sort of stretched out west and north from where the highway would join the mess. If you use there 'find a store' link it will bring up a map/satellite view, choose satellite and you will see how the Phoenix are stretches east and west and north. Tempe is sort of middle and up a bit but not near halfway as 60 expressway is more of a divider north south. Anyway, I was just thinking of the parts of Phoenix area that I must travel through to go north to Flagstaff or on to Colorado thru the Navajo nation.
Look south of the Tempe area and you see nothing but fields most of the way to Casa Grande. Those are native lands. Lots of farm lands and occasional small settlements. None so big as the Navajo nation further north that I got to know pretty well. I worked with many of the Navajo that lived around Farmington NM and the Utes that lived near Cortez. All were very nice people and so are the ones I have met here in Casa Grande but I don't know just what they call themselves.
Interesting that both of those two red lifts are different by length but still at the same price.
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Post by bobf on Dec 8, 2013 11:47:39 GMT -6
Thanks JR. Those towns you mentioned are about an hour away and likely longer as they are on the north side of Phoenix. I live at least 40 miles south of Chandler, south side of the Phoenix area. To get to Tempe I stay on the freeway and must pass the airport where traffic can be pretty bad. Sometimes it gets down to stop and go, stop and go, movement on a freeway. Sometimes only just slow as all get out. To get to Mesa I can take county roads and then travel through lots of city style areas like Chandler or Gilbert till I arrive in Mesa. So yes, I can and do go into the Phoenix area for shopping. But seldom as we have most items needed right here in Casa Grande. Unfortunately I don't have a truck anymore so must consider shipping. Which can be quite expensive for a 300 lb item.
I will take a look at the items you liked. It all adds up to a decision to do it or forget it.
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Post by bobf on Dec 8, 2013 7:21:28 GMT -6
Thank you wolfhound. I will give a look to Harbor Freight for a good example. We don't have any HF in my current area and maybe not in the larger area. But if freight is not too high, still worth a look.
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Post by bobf on Dec 7, 2013 19:58:56 GMT -6
Today, I was looking at getting something to make my working on my scoot a bit easier to do and likely help my back stay calmer.
I am looking for the ones that will allow you to put the wheels in the stand and then raise the scooter a foot or more up into the air. This would make working with a mechanics stool possible.
Just a few days back I had to work on my scoot and it was all inside the front plastics. I had to lay on the garage floor, work in some odd positions, and after a bit I would need to get up and look for a tool or whatever. Really hard to do for me as I need to crawl to where I could get a good solid grip on a part of the scooter that would likely not tip the scoot over, or find a chair or door knob so I could help my back and knees to a upright position.
So has anyone on this forum found a good stand to use. I have seen them from around $100 on up to thousands depending on the lift mechanism and other goodies included. I am really wondering if anyone has one of the lower priced ones and feels good about it. I believe it was Sears for one type and don't remember the other places I looked. I was just browsing and made no real notes.
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Post by bobf on Dec 7, 2013 11:36:42 GMT -6
Yep ellpee, I took the hard way to learn by just going after things as I saw them. Next time I will check the wiring connections first and then if necessary, take the path allyoop suggested of removing the metal bar inside and then would be able to pull the lamp out and not need to take off the turn light 'bump'.
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Post by bobf on Dec 6, 2013 16:33:51 GMT -6
Thanks Allyoop. Next time I will try that way. I tried to back my socket and bulb out but the bulb was too large, I think. Maybe it is the bar blocking the move up and out, not the bulb.
I have it all fixed now and hope I last for a long time before having to do that again.
It appears that I missed the problem as it has turned out to be the slip connector above the front wheel was not connected. Did not see that till I had gone a long way on removal. I need to do a more basic check before tearbdown again.
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Post by bobf on Dec 6, 2013 14:14:28 GMT -6
OK, near to finishing putting it all back together. One more screw to hold the outer silver cover over the lens, then put the front panel on over the windshield and it will be all done.
Problem fixed. First had to take out and put the lamp assembly back together properly. The lamp socket part had slipped out of the reflector part so I could not easily turn the lamp to get it out. Then I saw that the cable was disconnected from the harness under the scoot body above the wheel.
So I worked in the blind with my shorty Phillips screwdriver to remove the outer cover. Then found the clear part had a screw covered by the outer cover. Then removed three screws that held the lamp housing to the body. Now with the lamp housing and cable free I could once again get the lamp housing back into the reflector part properly and install the lamp. Then following reverse sequence and again working blind, I was able to get all back on the scoot. Very tiring for my old back and very frustrating to have to work in the blind. But certainly a lot quicker and easier that stripping the front end to try to find or fix something.
As soon as I had reset the lamp housing and installed the bulb I did a light test. It worked fine. So then I started the replacement process.
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Post by bobf on Dec 6, 2013 13:58:49 GMT -6
You may be correct. The only thing I found on the parts list was the thing called temperature sensor. I never found one called thermostat. So I (ass u me) assumed that what I said was correct. Now I say, so what if wrong, the solution is exactly the same. Take out what you want fixed or replaced, take it to an auto store and ask them to replace it.
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Post by bobf on Dec 6, 2013 11:11:40 GMT -6
Thanks for your reply ellpee. Still confused as by your response it sounds like you have removed your main front panel to get into the lighting stuff. So for me to change this one bulb I must remove the front cover and not try to remove the bulb till then? More effort than I had wanted to do, but will if that is the only way to go.
I have no interest in LED lamps as I never drive at night and daytime not often enough to put lots effort or money into the scooter.
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Post by bobf on Dec 5, 2013 15:51:08 GMT -6
Front turn light is not working. How to replace the bulb.
I looked under the front cover and can see a black object that might allow me to take the bulb out the back of the socket area. But there is also a piece of metal blocking my ability to grab the housing very well. I see no other way to get to the bulb to see what kind to buy or how to get it out. Is it necessary to remove the front plastics to get better access to the bulb? Would this be necessary for all the lights on the front part of the scoot?
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Post by bobf on Dec 5, 2013 14:19:42 GMT -6
OK, the water is much the same in both. I looked them up in the Roketa parts book and sub assembly charts. To me the pictures look the same. MC 54 250 03-03 temperature sensor at $15.00 MC 54B 250 03-14 temperature sensor at $15.00 The numbers look the same except for the last number which indicates the item number on that illustration page. First guess is they are the same. .roketa.com/product/productlist/2610.shtml" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.roketa.com/product/productlist/2610.shtmlScroll well down the page to find MC 54 250 or MC 54B 250, then click on 'Sales parts and menu', now scroll down into the parts area you want, then click on that name. Following the enlarged view will be a parts list. We only get a numbered item list but never a complete part number for the items. EDIT to add: If you have one in hand just take it to a auto parts store and see if they can match it. . |
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Post by bobf on Dec 1, 2013 12:04:27 GMT -6
yes I see what your saying they left some of the 100 in the radiator now I guess couse it did not go down ,so if I drain off a bit that should do it its right there behind it I am confused bob couse you had told me to keep it about half way full back earler in the thread,couse of the exspntion that is cold full right up not hot you had said when cold should be about half way up then it will expand . the gas tank its right behind it few inches its longer not as tall .i can take some better pics ,what up with the gas gage not working it moves up a little ,but after putting 3/4ths gallon in there it does not move just below e.but does moves a little not much,i will post better pic before I put it back together of the radiator an the tank an carb Some confusion can happen. As it is right now, the overflow drain is working for you. It is letting the excess to escape. My saying to keep the overflow bottle to a halfway point was just saying not to let it go dry. You really need some in there to make it work properly. It is the same as in a car. Fill the overflow container too full and when the engine gets hot it starts overflowing down the hose to the street. That is why they usually mark the side of the overflow container to keep a small amount in there when the engine is cool. Some I have seen have two lines on them. One for cool fill and one for hot level. . |
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Post by bobf on Dec 1, 2013 7:26:01 GMT -6
If you are talking of pulling out 6 oz of coolant I ask why? If the coolant is not leaking from the overflow bottle it is OK. If some does come out of the overflow bottle that is the purpose of the overflow bottle. To drain any surplus in the radiator and bottle capacity. When the engine cools you need some fluids in the overflow bottle body to make sure the radiator stays full as it cools.
Where did they put the gas tank?
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