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Post by cruiser on Nov 14, 2012 21:54:17 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Nov 14, 2012 21:17:15 GMT -6
JR has brought up some good points. Volts are either AC (what comes out of the stator) or DC (the output of the R/R or battery voltages). So when stating voltage readings they should look like 12 VDC or 12 VAC. A reading of 14.7 VDC directly out of the R/R is normal and indicates a good R/R. You should also read very close to that at the positive battery terminal. I don't understand a 9 volt through the diode reading. The blocking diode or relay conducts when the engine is running. The voltage drop across the conducting diode might be around .6 or .7 VDC so that you should still see over 14 VDC at the battery positive terminal. The auto choke is fed VAC off one winding of the stator and gets no voltage from the R/R. If the R/R is putting out 14.7 VDC, then there is nothing wrong with the stator. If at least 14 VDC is not present at the battery positive terminal when revving the engine to 5000 rpm, then you have a bad blocking diode or bad connections in the charging circuit. Here's how to check the auto choke: thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=afcall&action=display&thread=255 |
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Post by cruiser on Nov 12, 2012 20:33:08 GMT -6
The reason I believe they put grease in there is because the Weights fit really loose in the Variator slots and they want to stop the rattleing noise to quiet it down. my .02 Alleyoop I agree with Alley and wheezy. A small amount of grease on each weight will help hold them in their respective channels so that they don't get twisted around while assembling the variator. If you are careful, you can assemble without grease when doing sliders which will help reduce the amount of dirt attracted to the variator. I like to use a dry lube like Jigaloo which helps the sliders slide more smoothly. |
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Post by cruiser on Nov 11, 2012 20:41:18 GMT -6
Ok I just put the bell back on and started it and the clutch is engaged right off the bat. When I pull the break it stops the wheel but the clutch is still spinning. I'm worried now this issue could be something else. If you have the clutch bell off, you will see the clutch shoes spinning whenever the engine is running with the CVT belt still connected. This is normal. When the engine is revved, the shoes will expand and make contact with the clutch bell which then spins the rear wheel. |
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BIGFOOT
by: cruiser - Nov 10, 2012 15:39:56 GMT -6
Post by cruiser on Nov 10, 2012 15:39:56 GMT -6
Well?  ? Are you back after your foot thing?? Did it turn out OK? If you're on pain meds, remember to be careful, sometimes natural remedies are best.  (Always did wonder where I could use that smiley.) |
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Post by cruiser on Nov 10, 2012 15:26:42 GMT -6
I agree with Alley. It sounds like something broke or is loose in the clutch which is causing it to stay engaged.
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ARRGGG!!!
by: cruiser - Nov 8, 2012 19:35:16 GMT -6
Post by cruiser on Nov 8, 2012 19:35:16 GMT -6
Great to hear from you again, Zug. Thanks for the well wishes and I hope that  is out of your life soon and everything will be smooth scootin' real soon. |
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Post by cruiser on Nov 2, 2012 22:56:38 GMT -6
The minis have speed limiters and have less than 25 inch seat height. I would think a 10 year old would be OK with this but maybe not the 8 year old?
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Post by cruiser on Nov 2, 2012 22:05:40 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Nov 2, 2012 18:12:14 GMT -6
Most people have only one display card or chipset so when you click on the display adapter the drop down will show only the one card. Click on that and then click on driver and then chose update driver and let Windows do the rest.
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Post by cruiser on Nov 2, 2012 18:01:04 GMT -6
Just about every function that you are having problems with has its own fused circuit. Brake lights which also feed 12 volts to the starter solenoid is on one circuit. Horn has another circuit. Radiator fan runs on another circuit. The fuse box that Alley pointed out is a good place to start. The connectors for the wires under the fuse box tend to be loose and sometimes they push out from the box when the fuses are pushed in. You should have 12 volts feeding in to all the fuses except for the headlights. Make sure you have 12 volts feeding the fuse box (I believe it's the black wire). The LIGHT fuse gets 12 volts once the engine is running. Here's a picture of the inside of that fuse box:  I would make sure that the brake circuit which feeds 12 volts to one side and the starter button which supplies the ground for the other side of the starter solenoid are working correctly before suspecting the solenoid itself. The CDI is located above the muffler next to the regulator/rectifier and the blocking diode.  From left to right is the blocking diode, the R/R, and then the CDI. |
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Post by cruiser on Nov 1, 2012 19:31:30 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, Dabb. This is the place for scoot problems. Plenty of helpful members with lots of experience. JR and Alley will type their fingers to the bone to answer all your questions.  JR, here's the link to the place that sells the trike conversions. Maybe a future project? Hope not too soon. .tcscooters.com/trikes.htm" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .tcscooters.com/trikes.htmPS: Dabb, I hope you were not offended by the scooter porn posted earlier. Most of us are careful not to post scoot butts on the forum.  |
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Post by cruiser on Oct 29, 2012 19:18:07 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Oct 25, 2012 21:52:23 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum. My YY250T came with 25 watt bulbs so even a 35 watt bulb would be brighter. Using 25 watt bulbs helps relieve the electrical load on the marginal charging system. Replacing as many bulbs as possible with LED's will be a big help. I have not found a good LED replacement for the headlights. I, like other scoot owners, have replaced with 35 watt HID's which do require some rewiring and mounting of components. The HID's are quite a bit brighter than the originals and just about any other replacement bulb.
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Post by cruiser on Oct 22, 2012 19:43:15 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, rw0575.  Your scoot uses a detuned version of the Yamaha 50cc 2 strokes. It sounds like the pump for the oil injection might need attention and/or the carb might have issues. Sounds like an over rich running condition might be fouling the plug which would hurt performance and fuel mileage. Performance enhancements might be difficult as the scoot uses a single speed transmission instead of a CVT. 30 mph is about right for this scoot. Maybe some of our 2 stroke riders might be able to give some suggestions. Here's the service manual: .motorscooterguide.net/Yamaha/Razz/Razz.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.motorscooterguide.net/Yamaha/Razz/Razz.html |
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