|
|
Post by ellpee on Feb 5, 2014 9:09:23 GMT -6
You sure have a mind-boggling collection of pictures!
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Feb 5, 2014 9:06:00 GMT -6
Not too bad on my 2011 Roketa, 2-3 screws readily accessible from the left side, no need to remove any plastic panels. The only time I ever took mine off I found that the metal bracket that is supposed to hold the filter element in the proper position was broken off. I fixed that, but it was NOT blocking the air flow, only created a situation where the air going into the engine was not being filtered. I've read posts here, though, where people found rainwater had collected in the filter housing, or other situations that meant less air was reaching the carburetor. A fairly easy thing to check, and if all is good you've pretty much narrowed things down to the carburetor settings, I believe.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Feb 5, 2014 8:56:12 GMT -6
Thanks to all. I've been up the frontage roads almost to Red Rock, but wasn't sure beyond there, especially the bottleneck at Picacho Peak. The back way is a nice ride, but considerably longer, and as you say, there's a whole lot of nothing along 87 if you break down. Plenty of traffic, but not much in the way of businesses or even homes.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Feb 4, 2014 13:50:07 GMT -6
I'm in Tucson, wanting to do a day tour up NW toward Casa Grande without doing Interstate. I know I can go back roads via ?87? to Coolidge or Florence, wondering if I can get as far as, say, Eloy via frontage roads along I-10. Considerably shorter if it's possible. Can't really tell for sure from GoogleEarth. Have asked a local scooter club but don't know if I'll get a reply, their website is not updated much, not sure they even use it any more. Anyone? (PS, no gravel if possible, please. I'm an asphalt kind of guy.)
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Feb 1, 2014 8:37:30 GMT -6
Which does what for you, exactly? All this gear ratio stuff is sort of like calculus to me. More teeth = bigger gear = turns slower = more engine RPM = more power, right?
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 31, 2014 9:19:23 GMT -6
OK, so gas is flowing, therefore fuel pump and carburetor jets are working. Mixture could be too rich, too much gas/not enough air; maybe adjustment needed to carburetor, maybe air flow into the carburetor via the air filter box is somehow obstructed. Those things occur to me, others may have additional thoughts.
If you are getting spark the kill switch is in the OPEN position; closing that switch shuts off the electricity to the ignition system. Same for the switch on the side stand, if you have one. It is OPEN with the stand up, CLOSED with the stand down, as far as I know. (My two-wheel scooter has a side stand, but no switch associated with it.) There is no "normal" position for those switches; you set them whichever way you want them, the kill switch by using the button, the side stand switch by lowering the stand. But again: if you're getting a good strong spark, the kill switch(es) are not your problem.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 30, 2014 10:25:07 GMT -6
If you got a good, strong, blue spark then all those electrical possibilities pretty much go away. Next in line as far as I know would be fuel issues. For that nice strong spark to do anything you have to have the right fuel mixture coming through the carburetor into the cylinder. Two ways I know of that that can be your problem: either fuel is not getting to the cylinder (problem with the fuel pump or the carburetor) or the air/fuel mix getting to the cylinder is wrong (too much air or too much fuel, either way most likely a carburetor problem). I hope others will chime in here on how to test for that, but the first thing I would do, with the "candela" removed, is crank the starter for a good 10-15 seconds and see if you can see or smell gas in the cylinder, via the spark plug hole. You might even be able, after cranking, to insert a long cotton swab into the spark plug hole and see if the cotton comes out soaked with gas.
Please, gurus, chime in here -- I'm at the outer limits of my knowledge.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 29, 2014 22:24:45 GMT -6
Scot, you know we love ya, but that post is major confusing. What?  You're really not explaining yourself in a way anybody (or at least I) can respond to in any helpful way. GUESSING at your meaning, yes, I've read opinions here that shutting down a scooter via the kill switch is better than just via the ignition key. Hasn't been a problem for me yet, but advice noted and will help me know where to start looking if I have problems in future. Also, on my 2011 Roketa putting the key in the fourth (alarm) position does indeed draw a little juice, and I have very little to spare. In addition, the electronics of that whole keyfob/alarm/anti-theft thing produces some odd results as far as starting the scooter the normal way, so for the most part I just avoid using it altogether. Oh yeh--do not use the key fob to start and shutdown,it can cause the whole thing to go haywire unless you understand the sequence of key to fob ratio turning on and turning off,plus running with the key out--very confusing --I am sure True dat. More than once I've hit the red button when pulling the keys out of my pocket, whereupon the "WHOOP! WHOOP! WHOOP!" stuff starts. I'd leave the fob at home except that early on I had the experience where that was the only way I could get the starter to crank. "Anti-theft system" sounds great in the ads, but I could do without it. |
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 29, 2014 14:44:38 GMT -6
Scot, you know we love ya, but that post is major confusing. What? You're really not explaining yourself in a way anybody (or at least I) can respond to in any helpful way. GUESSING at your meaning, yes, I've read opinions here that shutting down a scooter via the kill switch is better than just via the ignition key. Hasn't been a problem for me yet, but advice noted and will help me know where to start looking if I have problems in future. Also, on my 2011 Roketa putting the key in the fourth (alarm) position does indeed draw a little juice, and I have very little to spare. In addition, the electronics of that whole keyfob/alarm/anti-theft thing produces some odd results as far as starting the scooter the normal way, so for the most part I just avoid using it altogether. |
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 29, 2014 14:38:22 GMT -6
Ah, real scooter weather in them thar pickchers! We had a cold spell here too, got all the way down to 65 recently. (Bwah hah hah, couldn't resist!) Previous posters don't say where you are, but you have my sympathy.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 28, 2014 12:03:09 GMT -6
Hello, thanks for reply, pardon my language but I'm Italian and I'm helping with the translator google, in italian language spark plug is said "candela". It could be a problem while you switch to the side stand? Thanks Yes, had not thought of that, since neither of my scooters has a side stand switch. But it could indeed be a problem with the kill switch or the side stand switch, which is basically a second kill switch as I understand it. |
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 27, 2014 20:05:02 GMT -6
Likin' it. I don't come here to participate or cheer from the sidelines in any pi$$ing contests. Let's share our wisdom, our humor or what passes for same, and leave it at that. As far as I know I only once stepped on a toe, and backed off with apologies as soon as I realized it. Please everybody else, do the same. This forum has been invaluable to me for something like 16 months now, and I would really hate to see it come unraveled over ego issues.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 27, 2014 11:27:26 GMT -6
So, I managed to remove the spark plug and I clean, I tried to turn on the scooter by putting the candle into contact with a ground plane but not spark, for now I will try to replace it with a new one ..... thank bye So I get that you removed and cleaned the plug. As to the next part, are you saying you put the plug back in its rubber boot, cranked the engine, and no spark at the electrode of the spark plug? If I understand that part correctly, it COULD be a bad plug, but they're pretty simple and reliable, and I'd check at least one step further before spending the money for a new plug. Take the rubber plug boot, WITH PLUG REMOVED, and find a way to ground it. When I do this I insert a nail or screw into the boot. Then crank the engine and hold that nail or screw CLOSE TO (not touching) a bare metal ground like the scooter frame or one of the bolts. What you want to see is a spark jumping from the nail to the grounding surface. If you don't, your problem is somewhere in the ignition circuitry. Working your way "upstream" from the spark plug, the possibilities I know of are -- loose or broken spark plug wire -- coil broken or has bad connections -- CDI broken or has bad connections -- Regulator (which is where the CDI gets its electricity) is broken or has bad connections. -- Stator (which is where the regulator gets its electricity) is broken or has bad connections. (Just wondering -- "candle"? I'm guessing maybe you're a German-speaker, as in "Zündkerze"?) |
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 27, 2014 10:53:25 GMT -6
Well, I really don't have anything I would consider a warranty issue. Had to install new rear brake pads, but that's a "wear-outable" item, so probably not a warranty claim even though it happened in the first few hundred miles. (Actually lost one entire pad surface, didn't just wear out.) Aside from that and predictable carburetor issues at very high altitude, also not Ice Bear's fault, the Magnum is performing as advertised. Has right at 1000 miles on it now, will see what this next summer brings. I took delivery around July 1st, so even under the best case the time limit will expire not long after we get back to our summer digs. Under the reduced warranty because I assembled it myself, the horse has long since left the barn. Like I said, I'm being as mellow and philosophical as I can; I knew the risks of buying Chinese, I got lured away from you by a lower price (in retrospect, a REALLY bad decision!), and running it in a little town with only one little mom'n'pop ATV shop to call on for repairs is just a fact of life.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 26, 2014 19:46:43 GMT -6
... Units which are drop shipped directly to the end user in crate without PDI and assembly by a certified/professional mechanics will have a shorter warranty period as follow: Trike products: Parts covered under this circumstance to be free from manufacturer defects for 60 days on parts & engine is covered for 3 months or 500 miles, whichever comes first Yup, that would be me. Mine was "dropped" beside the road 1/4 mile or so from my house because some combination of dealer/Ice Bear/Yellow Freight ignored my repeated warnings about narrow road, etc. Under those circumstances I had pretty much zero option except to uncrate it and at least partially assemble it to get it off the road and into my garage, at which point Ice Bear's "full warranty" was no longer in the cards. If life gave do-overs I would've handled all that quite a bit differently, but it's all water under the bridge now. If I need parts for my Magnum that aren't generic enough to be available on the Internet, you'll certainly be hearing from me, Jim, as my "dealer" in Georgia probably never wants to hear my name again. But I'm resigned to the fact that because of the above, I have pretty much zero claim to any warranty coverage from Ice Bear. |
|
