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Post by gjpundsack on Jan 30, 2014 15:07:37 GMT -6
Betcha JR knows what to do...2012 Velocity 150 with 2,000 miles (no alarm system). Recent valve lash set, float level change, etc and it has been running absolutely great. No spark or fuel delivery issues at that point and spark plug color has been perfect. As ambient air cooled off at the end of the year, it got where it wouldn't start every time with ignition switch, but would with a kick start. Then, it wouldn't start with either. Checked battery and found it dry. Battery bench tested bad. Put in new battery. Checked fuse link in battery harness and found to be OK. Kill switch in correct position. Key switch was acting weird, so I replaced it. Still won't start. Now, with key switch turned to start position, I no longer have any lights or horn working. Using a test light, I have power at battery and at starter solenoid. Can jump solenoid with a screwdriver and it readily spins the motor. I can also smell fuel when I do that "jump start". Poking the test light into the green wire locations in the harness going to the switch, I cannot get it to light up. Tried the same green wire leads at the CDI and no light up.
What do I do next?
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Post by alleyoop on Jan 30, 2014 15:51:10 GMT -6
The green wires are ground so you it will not light up. Normally the red wire with the fuse goes to ignition to feed it 12vs. Then when you turn the key on it connects to the Black wire that feeds the rest of the system.
Alleyoop
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 30, 2014 16:48:38 GMT -6
GJP , did you only want an answer from JR ?
John
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Post by gjpundsack on Jan 30, 2014 18:19:03 GMT -6
Oops. Good to know about the black wire.
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Post by gjpundsack on Jan 30, 2014 18:19:31 GMT -6
No, please. Anyone and all.
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 30, 2014 18:49:11 GMT -6
is the fuse good ?
John
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Post by gjpundsack on Jan 30, 2014 19:08:15 GMT -6
Yes. The fuse is good.
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Post by alleyoop on Jan 30, 2014 21:03:21 GMT -6
Well here is what I think, since you were messing up front there with the a new Ignition key switch I think you accidently pulled some wires going to the items you just mentioned. Reason I say is because you say your Solenoid had juice when you squeeze the brakes so that means with the KEY ON it is sending juice to the brake switch and some parts that need it. So I would look around where you were with the KEY switch and look for unplug wires.
Alleyoop
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Post by gjpundsack on Jan 30, 2014 22:19:32 GMT -6
Thanks. I'll check it out this weekend and report back.
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Post by JR on Jan 31, 2014 4:52:26 GMT -6
Sorry, my name was called?  You're on the right tack and since you know that you're getting fire on the positive side of the solenoid with the brake pressed we need to check the other side (red/yellow) wire. Since you have a test light here is a easy test. Put on side of test, put one side of the test light on the positive terminal of the battery, hook the other side to the red/yellow wire going to solenoid relay. Press start button, light should light up. If not then got to find out if the ground to the start button is intact or if the start button is bad. The start button is the ground side of the solenoid relay when pressed. Also most scooter have a 3 wire kill switch and it is inter-connected with the start button so this may be part of the troubles also?  Let us know what you find and we'll get her going. JR |
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Post by gjpundsack on Feb 2, 2014 12:15:25 GMT -6
Ok, JR, that checked out., Here is the current situation. With the kill switch in the "off" position, and the key inserted in the ignition switch to the "on" position, all lights are operating as well as the horn. When I hold the brake handle, and activate the switch it will not turn the starter/start. BUT, if I jumb the starter solenoid, it fires right up and runs fine. Turning the kill switch to the "on/killl" position does not kill it. Turning the key to the "off" position does. Putting my test light to a ground and inserting it on the wires to the kill switch and the start switch, it does not light up.
Getting close. Now what do you think?
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Post by alleyoop on Feb 2, 2014 12:35:45 GMT -6
I think the Start button is your problem, since you checked that the Red/Yellow wire going into the Solenoid is HOT with key on and brake squeezed it is getting voltage but the start button is NOT Making Ground when pushed to complete the circuit. Jumping the Solenoid is what it does INTERNALLY the contact inside makes contact with both terminals like you did from outside to pass the 12v to the starter.
Alleyoop
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Post by gjpundsack on Feb 2, 2014 14:14:19 GMT -6
Eureka! Found It! The red fuse wire on the battery has its round terminal on the same screw that holds the battery positive lead on. Both are under a red boot. I found that the fuse link wire was broken at the terminal (and hidden under the boot).
Thanks so much to Alleyoop and JR. You guys are the best!
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Post by alleyoop on Feb 2, 2014 15:04:32 GMT -6
Fantastic!! Good find
Alleyoop
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
