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Post by woodydel on Nov 5, 2013 13:33:22 GMT -6
I'm reasonably sure it must be here but searching hasn't helped me. I have YY250T and need to test sender. If there is a test for the gauge itself that would be of interest. Scooter panels are off and I have access to plug.
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Post by bobf on Nov 5, 2013 15:29:30 GMT -6
It might help if told about the engine size. Horizontal 257cc or vertical 244cc. I think they both have different gas tanks and sensor appears to be the same. I have a 244cc and the gas tank has a horizontal opening for the gas gauge. So the gauge swings way out over the fuel and tells if high or low.
To me a gas gauge is little more than an approximation. Even on cars that is all it is as acceleration and deceleration, going around curves, climbing or descending hills make the readings vary. Sure some of that on scooters as well. Tank size and shape also makes a big difference in actual amounts shown. I believe my tank is not true cross section from top to bottom. I have no idea how that is compensated for with a floppy, floating, float gauge. I consider below half tank is time to fill up at next possible location.
You could take the float gauge out of the tank. Then watch the dash gauge as you slide the float up and down. If close to top and bottom, what else could be done? If way off, maybe bend the rod up or down at the bend point on the rod.
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Post by woodydel on Nov 5, 2013 15:56:40 GMT -6
This is a scooter specific website so it sure seemed a YY250T would be recognized in my post. YY250T's are mentioned all over the site. That's my model number YY250T made by Jonway. The gauge on the dash stopped functioning altogether. It's either the gauge or the sender. What readings should I expect on the three wire plug at the sender? Anyone else?
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Post by JR on Nov 5, 2013 18:34:59 GMT -6
This is a scooter specific website so it sure seemed a YY250T would be recognized in my post. YY250T's are mentioned all over the site. That's my model number YY250T made by Jonway. The gauge on the dash stopped functioning altogether. It's either the gauge or the sender. What readings should I expect on the three wire plug at the sender? Anyone else? Not necessarily? If it stopped all of a sudden that more than likely is just a bad connection and/or loose wire. You mentioned you had the panels off but didn't mention you looked for obvious things that can cause this first?
Also When Bob asks which engine the YY250T label is misleading? I've a got a 250B that was at one time labeled a YY250T but I removed the bogus label. Most generally the YY250T relates to the vertical 244cc engine but with Chinese scooters one doesn't really know until they look at the engine?
Now after looking for anything like a bad connection or broke wire this is how you test a temp sensor and it doesn't matter which engine it is:
Temp Sensor Test:
1
Disconnect the connector from the coolant temperature sensor (temperature sending unit). Measure the resistance across the terminal pins using a digital multimeter and write this value down. Do this before running the engine, it must be cold for this test.
2
Reconnect the connector to the sensor. Start the engine and allow to warm up for two minutes.
3
Disconnect the connector from the sensor again. Measure the resistance across the terminal pins again.
4
Determine the difference in the two readings. If there is not at least 200 ohms difference in the two readings the sensor is dirty or defective.
5
Remove the sensor from the engine if the ohms reading is too low. Clean the sensor, removing any deposits, and repeat the test. Another low reading indicates the sensor is defective and must be replaced.
Temp Gauge Test:
1
Unplug the temperature gauge from the sending unit. This is usually located to the right of the engine.
2
Turn the ignition key to the "On" position. Do not start the scooter.
3
Ground the temperature gauge wire to the engine. You should use jumper wires to ground the temperature gauge.
4
Check the temperature gauge on the scooter. The reading should be in the middle between hot and cold.
5
Turn the ignition key to the "Off" position.
6
Check the fuses. If the fuse connected to the temperature gauge is burned out you should replace it.
7
Ground the jumper wire connected to the sending unit terminal located next to the engine.
8
Turn the ignition key to the "On" position.
9
Check the temperature gauge on the scooter. If the temperature now reads hot, then there is a open wire in the sending unit. You should replace the gauge.
JR
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Post by woodydel on Nov 5, 2013 19:14:18 GMT -6
FUEL GAUGE AND FUEL LEVEL SENDING UNIT---
I DID NOT STATE THE GAUGE STOPPED "ALL OF A SUDDEN". It has ALWAYS been inaccurate since I bought it new.
I took it apart when I tried to top off the gas and it was full and gauge needle laid flat on the bottom. I ignored the inaccurate gauge for too long.
I've purchased a new sending unit $22 and a complete NEW dash for $25. Speedometer in MPH, inaccurate or not, just will look "normal".
I've got 4 motorcycles, cars, trucks, 2 forward control jeeps, 27 garden tractors and a motorhome. I know how everything works.
This thing is Chinese (runs fine for 5 years) but there is NOTHING to look up. No stinking manuals except for Honda manuals which I use and CFMOTO manuals.
I'll do this the dumbass way and replace parts indiscriminately and it will work.
It's not worth messing with it and I just want to get the jackass panels back on before I forget how or lose the screws and bolts.
Thanks for your time. I'm taking care of it.
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Post by JR on Nov 5, 2013 20:38:48 GMT -6
FUEL GAUGE AND FUEL LEVEL SENDING UNIT--- I DID NOT STATE THE GAUGE STOPPED "ALL OF A SUDDEN". It has ALWAYS been inaccurate since I bought it new. I took it apart when I tried to top off the gas and it was full and gauge needle laid flat on the bottom. I ignored the inaccurate gauge for too long. I've purchased a new sending unit $22 and a complete NEW dash for $25. Speedometer in MPH, inaccurate or not, just will look "normal". I've got 4 motorcycles, cars, trucks, 2 forward control jeeps, 27 garden tractors and a motorhome. I know how everything works. This thing is Chinese (runs fine for 5 years) but there is NOTHING to look up. No stinking manuals except for Honda manuals which I use and CFMOTO manuals. I'll do this the dumbass way and replace parts indiscriminately and it will work. It's not worth messing with it and I just want to get the jackass panels back on before I forget how or lose the screws and bolts. Thanks for your time. I'm taking care of it.
Forgive me since I'm a little tired today and I didn't see fuel gauge in your title. Now if you know how everything works why are you asking about how to test a fuel gauge and sending unit? They all function in a similar matter.
Also the mention of scooter specific website, yes it is that's why I explained Bob's question about your engine. I know this also because I own 5 scooters and know that the YY250T label has two different engines and two different gas tanks that's why you were asked.
If you get on the phone to a auto parts store and want to ask for a fuel gauge sending unit do you just say I got a Chevrolet or do you tell them the make, model, engine etc? BTW the YY250T changed some things in 2011 from the older models, what year model is yours? See what I mean?
So now here is the answer to your question from a scooter member at a scooter specific website that knows how and what to check on a scooter along with a lot of the things you mentioned above yourself.
Fuel Gauge/Sender Test:
1
Ensure that all wiring connections (both on the back of the gauge and on the sender unit) are clean, tight, and free from dirt and corrosion. Checking the wiring on the back of the fuel gauge may require removing the front plastics, removing the instrument panel, or removing the gauge from the dashboard. The sender unit is located on the fuel tank.
2
Turn the ignition on and off several times in succession and note if the needle moves at all. If there is no movement, check the fuse. The fuse panel may be located under the seat or under the dashboard. Each fuse should be labeled with an amperage rating and a number or series of letters indicating which circuit the fuse protects. . Replace the fuse if it is bad, making sure that the replacement fuse is the correct amperage rating.
3
Connect the jumper wire to the ignition switch and the terminal on the back of the fuel gauge, then turn the vehicle on. If the gauge now works, replace the defective wiring between the gauge and the ignition switch.
4
Ground the gauge by soldering or clipping one end of the jumper wire onto the gauge's grounding terminal and the other end onto a clean contact point on the vehicle's frame, then turn the vehicle on. If the gauge starts working, replace the defective fuel gauge grounding wire.
5
Ground the sender unit with the jumper wire using the method described in the previous step. The sender unit can be grounded by attaching the jumper wire to the exterior of the fuel tank or the vehicle's frame. Replace the sender unit's grounding wire if the gauge begins to function.
6
Disconnect the wire that connects the fuel gauge to the sender unit, then turn the key on. If the fuel gauge reads full, this indicates a problem with the sender unit or the in-tank mechanism. If the gauge continues to read empty, you most likely have a faulty fuel gauge that needs to be replaced.
BTW 9 out of 10 times the tank sending unit on a scooter is simply stuck and just need to be removed and fixed but since you want to do it the dumbass way then pay this advice no attention.
Now you know how to test both.
JR
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 5, 2013 20:39:19 GMT -6
WHOA!! my my all those rides and you can't figure out the fuel gauge. That is one of the simplest things on the scoot. And just for your hard knocks way of asking and attitude if the gauge does not register right if you fill it up and it shows empty few things to check and you need to take the sensor out of the tank. Few things, As you may have noticed that the fuel gauge activates when you turn the KEY TO ON, that tells you all you need to test is for any voltage on the plug because it is getting the juice from the fuse box or getting 12v direct. If the electrics where compromised they messed it up.
But the most common problem is the FLOAT itself has either disintegrated or has a leak and it is filled up with gas or it is stuck in the down position. You need to take the Sensor out and check the arm which has contacts on the backside of the plate that rotates up and down against the resistor plate. It could be that the Float arm wire is loose in the plastic holder and not making contact or gotten tight from the plastic expanding and will not allow it to move up and down. It is a very simple design and you will know right away why it is not registering. I wrote up a whole thread on the gas gauge sensor with pictures, been there done it and fixed.
Have a Nice day
Alleyoop
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Post by ellpee on Nov 5, 2013 21:17:43 GMT -6
Kudoes to JR and Alleyoop for restraint in dealing with this particular poster. Sheeeeeesh!!!!
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Post by fflintstone on Nov 6, 2013 9:34:20 GMT -6
Kudoes to JR and Alleyoop for restraint in dealing with this particular poster. Sheeeeeesh!!!!  ??---thank you would be the correct response,woodydel--happy trails,fflintstone  |
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Post by bobf on Nov 7, 2013 10:11:19 GMT -6
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Post by woodydel on Nov 11, 2013 21:41:05 GMT -6
Go back and read my first post. I'm not a wise ass.
Engine type DOES NOT MATTER. The gauge is the same.
I did not ask for opinions about accuracy.
I did not ask about temp gauges.
You came at ME . Not the other way around.
IT'S FIXED WITHOUT YOU. No thank you for NOTHING.
Go ahead and circle the wagons.
Read my ORIGINAL POST. Your initial responses were all B.S..
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 11, 2013 22:59:16 GMT -6
ALL of them B.S, tell us what was the problem so we all can learn something new.
Alleyoop
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Post by JR on Nov 12, 2013 6:11:37 GMT -6
Go back and read my first post. I'm not a wise ass. Engine type DOES NOT MATTER. The gauge is the same. I did not ask for opinions about accuracy. I did not ask about temp gauges. You came at ME . Not the other way around. IT'S FIXED WITHOUT YOU. No thank you for NOTHING. Go ahead and circle the wagons. Read my ORIGINAL POST. Your initial responses were all B.S..
Correct on this scooter.
I did not ask about temp gauges.
No you didn't, need to back up, quote in first post:
I gave you such a test in my second reply after graciously saying I didn't see Fuel gauge in your title, the proper response is Thank You.
NO you didn't in the first post but later said it has never been correct and people offered to help with their knowledge. Let you in on a little secret, the new sending unit will do the same soon and we know how to help you solve that problem so the old dumbass way you mentioned will still keep you in the dumbass need to strip it again and do the job again, welcome to the world of Chinese scooters.
No one came at you but all offered to help, need to get that big chip off of your shoulder for one who knows how to fix all these things you're not very smart after all.
Maybe, maybe not? Also you need to work on spelling and sentence structure, it's Now thank you for NOTHING and since you didn't know how to test a fuel gauge you got to read how here so YOU'RE WELCOME!
You have a colorful imagination to go along with the chip on your shoulder.
I did that's why I just broke down your BS. Take it somewhere else we don't need folks like you here.
I bet a lot of people around you differ? Now we do also, good day. 
JR
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Post by ellpee on Nov 12, 2013 9:03:18 GMT -6
 What THEY all said to OP. Sheesh again. Thank goodness these kinds of head-butts are so very rare here.
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Post by bobf on Nov 12, 2013 12:56:41 GMT -6
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
