voltage regulator By mikk88 (Read 6,499 times)

[mikk88]

2008... I think I'll bypass the voltage regulator... Install a bigger battery (ATV) type and buy a good battery charger... Start with the footcrank.... what do you think of this plan... ))

[mikk88]

... If someone has a better plan, please feel free to share...

[alleyoop]

Better plan is to get the right Regulator/Rectifier and it will charge your battery. What happens when your pretty away from home and the sucker won't start because your battery is low and the kickstarts are NOT for everyday use they are for emergency use only. They are a very WEAK part on the scoot, they cannot take abuse.
Alleyoop

[mikk88]

and which one would be the ''right'' R\R? I ordered this one thinking it was??? it"s the part number they give on the schematic...

[tvnacman]

Take the one that overcharges and use the ballast resistor. Its cheaper than a battery.

John

[mikk88]

I agree,,, but you never know when everything is going to blow

[JR]

Hold the bus! No resistors or anything of that nature needed, got something else wrong? Here is the Baja manual section and the wiring diagram is in the owner manual:

thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=5200&action=display&thread=813

This is the typical everyday 50cc GY-6 engine and charging system and any cheap 4-pin R/R will work.

You mentioned changing the stator? Did you properly ground it? if not then you've created a floating ground. Is the engine block itself grounded? If not it'll smoke regulators.

Look at the diagram and see if the wires match up from the stator to the R/R Also you took AC readings on the yellow and white wires and 27Vac is ok at idle but you need 50VAC plus on each wire for a good charging system.

Something has been altered, or something is not hooked up right and take these AC readings on the yellow and white wires with the R/R unplugged and let me know what they are.

JR

[mikk88]

Good day JR, I'll like your answer,,, something is wrong so lets find it.
1.) I work with the electrical schematic your referred to.

2.) Last evening I rev the engine with the R|R disconnected and the Hi beam blew, therefore telling me that I got too much VAC when not furnishing 12 vdc, but I'll take the exact reading this evening.

3.) The magneto seems well grounded and I join the green wire from the magneto to the battery ground directly on the scooter frame.. in any case, I'll clean all my frame ground to the metal this evening.

4.) It does look like a ground problem... but everything looks ok... now that I know what the voltage should be when reving the engine I can continue fault finding.

5.) More info... the R|R i installed is a perfect full wave (diode)bridge rectifier
(http://.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode_6.html)

which I verify with the ''diode'' setting and it looks perfect (it's new) the old one seems to have only one diode left...

6.) The only parts I didn't find is the famous ''hi-low beam relay'' and it could have an impact on the VAC...

7.) For your info... when every thing is connected, the more I rev the engine, the more I drain the battery...

Thanks for your help... it's very appreciated.

Mike

[JR]

With the R/R disconnected if you rev the engine you'll smoke the bulbs because the light circuit is tied on to the yellow wire going to the R/R, sorry I thought you had the bulbs disconnected . Without the R/R plugged in you'll read 50Vac or more on the yellow and white wires. If you blew the high beam side the lows will still work but leave it on high beam to do this test. Then plug the R/R in and then do a revved up test for AC on the white and yellow wire. I just ran one to be sure on my Bali, it's a 8 pole stator and with the R/R plugged in you will have 15 to 20Vac on those two wires.

If you have 50Vac on the yellow and white then the stator is good. Also it's very common to buy a bad R/R has happened to many that's why John tests his parts before he sells them.

JR

[mikk88]

Can you tell me where is the famous ''hi-low beam relay''?

[tvnacman]

Its a switch on the handle bars hi/low flash to pass.

John

[JR]

I don't know TV it doesn't appear to be the passing switch? I just saw this on the diagram, a little slow today and it shows to wire into the yellow wire going to the hi/lo beam switch like it is a load resistor?

But I've never seen a scooter have the load resistor unless it has a on/off headlight switch? The diagram shows that the headlights wire directly from the yellow wire on the stator going to the hi/lo beam switch and with the R/R unplugged he blew out his hi beam headlights which all adds up.

If he had a load resistor he would not have blown his light bulbs and he needs to check the tail lights also to see if they're blown?

The Chinese call things crazy names sometimes but passing lights all I've ever seen use DC voltage from the key switch to activate on the hi beam side only?

He asked where this is at? I would start looking around the battery area and also see if it ties into the yellow wire going to the R/R?

JR

[mikk88]

Hi it's me again:)

1.) It is not the passing switch which is VDC

2.) The only thing I found is, I think, the automatic choke which is fed by a yellow wire, the other side by a green wire...

3.) the tail light and the brake light are VDC fed and they are ok.

4.) The reading between the yellow to ground is 0 omh since it goes only thru a coil...

I'm now going to work on the bike... more to follow...

[tvnacman]

the item marked hi/low relay looks like , the indicator for the hi beams on the dash . Or did I miss it that ?

Sorry I don't buy that is the correct regulator . Here is why, I belive the regulator takes all the ac , it loads it down as the rectifier cuts the pulses . Any excess dc should/will be shunted to ground . Thats not what is going on here . I have seen several talk about balance between ac and dc in the charging system . The only rectifier that I know that needs balance is an item that was barley touched on and that is the weatstone bridge (google will get a workout on this one link me too so I can try to make heads or tails of it ) The mention was so breif I don't remember much about it . There is a twist in the circurtry in the 4pin regulator . If the regulator you got is a fullwave rectifier than maybe you need a halfwave rectifier .

If there was not so much bickering I would be able to find the post from when I tried to work through it . I think my overcharging was like 16vdc .

If money was a problem I would take the overcharging regulator and up the headlight wattage and call it a day .

John

John

[tvnacman]

When I did this I wanted more power , I went with the 11pole stator and 7pin regulator . Now I never ever worry about the charging system . Even when I use my Gerbings heated clothing .

John