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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 2, 2012 13:25:32 GMT -6
I believe this system to be an attempt to "cheat" sniffers by forcing air into the exhaust.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 2, 2012 13:24:27 GMT -6
Nvm. Guess it all just pops of Np.
Installed the block-off plate and capped the vacuum port the PAIR was attached to. Removed and discarded the entire PAIR system.
Readjusted the carb and what a difference! No popping! No backfire!
I see no benefit to this system at all in a set up that has no catalytic converter. All it does is force air into the exhaust, facilitating possible catastrophic damage should it malfunction and remain in the "open " position.
If your local laws permit it, remove and toss this garbage at once!
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 2, 2012 5:28:30 GMT -6
After chasing a random backfire on my 2011 Baccio 150t, I was finally able to discern with 100% accuracy that my P.A.I.R vacuum solenoid is wasted. It stays fully open at all times, causing a loud backfire on deceleration. For two weeks I messed with two different 24mm carbs and various jets, only to get this backfire no matter what I did.I chased around every hose and sealing point with propane double, tripple even quadruple checking for and possible vacuum leaks that could cause such a "lean" popping backfire. Since I found nothing with either carb and still had the backfire, I finally decided to check out the P.A.I.R. solenoid.
With the solenoid disconnected from vacuum, problem solved! No pop.
So I want this pseudo- emissions air pumping system gone. I suspect it never really worked right. I also suspect the P.A.I.R does little to nothing beneficial to the engine ( even possible that it is potentially hazardous since it causes backfiring).
My question is what to do with the valve cover? Can I block the reed valve? Is there a way to do that? Or should I get a standard non-pair valve cover?
I easily fabbed a plate for the exhaust passage, I'm not sure what to do with the valve cover.
Thought?
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 1, 2012 6:12:06 GMT -6
Got my carb installed. What a snappy scoot! Climbs at 25 easy with a flat speed of 45-50 (48mph GPS).
This makes me contemplate 72cc BBK -ing the wife's Roketa. I had no idea you could make such a power difference with a simple BBK and a jet!
Next is 5.5 g rollers. I shall keep you posted!
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 28, 2012 7:17:51 GMT -6
Yep. Been there done that. Remember to disconnect the slave line at the clutch master cylinder. It's a horrid pain (nearly impossible) to disconnect that line from the slave with the trans still in the vehicle. It's held on with a roll-pin in the body of the master cylinder.
Aside from that annoying line, the slave is a pretty easy trans drop. I'd change the clutch too if you can. Hydraulic fluid gets all over the clutch disc and pressure plate.
Oh yes : get a 5.5mm 1/4 socket. You're gonna need it to get that annoying shifter boot off.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 28, 2012 5:42:17 GMT -6
Hello! I just got a new belt for my Kymco Yup as it has reach 20,000 miles!
Upon changing the belt I noticed my rollers were very warn with many flat spots. I couldn't figure out the size of the rollers as they are all rather deformed. I weighed them and got a range of 5.1g to 7.3g.
I don't know what size and weight these rollers are supposed to be. I would like to order new ones. I'm thinking 7g will suffice, but does anyone know what size they ate supposed to be?
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 22, 2012 5:10:03 GMT -6
When it was running it didn't smoke, or blow lots of oil from the crankcase vent. Compression checks out. Pretty sure the rings are fine.
None the less, while I wait for my new carb, she's getting a full PDI, including replacing all oils and full greasing. So far everything checks out.
I'm pretty psyched about this one. Can't wait to see how fast a 72cc is in relation to the 49cc.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 21, 2012 14:47:27 GMT -6
Okay good to know. I've never actually messed with the 72cc BBK on a 139. The guy I got it from claimed 75mph. I'm thinking 45 to 50mph.
Bike has 6g weights (which I found funny since I just put 6g on my wife's 139). Should I run heavier weights?
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 21, 2012 8:20:01 GMT -6
Also ordered a new filter (uni style)
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 21, 2012 8:18:25 GMT -6
So I just stumbled onto this Ruckus clone with 12" wheels which has a 72cc bbk. Got it for a steal because the Unifilter disintergated and sucked chunks of black plastic and sludge through the carb. The carb, while upjetted, has a slugged AF screw (no af screw).
Took apart the crappy carb and found a #88 jet.
Rather than waste time, I ordered a new 139 carb and a #88 jet.
I'm not certain is a #88 jet is optimal jet.
Thoughts?
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 18, 2012 5:43:53 GMT -6
On scooter site, a recent idiotic debate ensues about rollers and contra springs.
The prevailing misconception is that lighter rollers or a higher rpm contraspring produce the same result in regards to acceleration.
Having repaired and replaced many CVTs, I call complete BS on this.
Roller weights affect the amount of rpms an engine can produce. Contra springs affect the rate at which the rear wheel engages.
Seeings how weights and contrasprings have totally different functions, I do not see how a higher RPM contraspring allows for increased engine RPMs, probably because that is totally not how it works.
The "pups" (namely Fox) have chastised me for stating my observation. An observation based upon real world observation of many CVTs.
I hearby state that changing to lower weights is NOT the same effect as increasing (or lowering) contraspring rates.
I'm at a bit of a loss to 1) how this is even debatable, since watching a CVT in action pretty much vindicates my opinion 2) why anyone would make such an enerous statement and then go out of their way to argue with me about it.
I miss when scooters were about riding them and giving correct information.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 17, 2012 6:52:07 GMT -6
Never run anything sans air filter!
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 17, 2012 6:50:50 GMT -6
No air filter= crazy lean mixture = possible overheating.
You're gonna have to get an airfilter and set a proper mixture. Aftermarket filters such as open element, will require larger jet.
What you're describing sounds like a ripped diaphragm or an incorrectly set deceleration needle.
That said, nothing about your carb sounds like it is correctly adjusted. I would disassemble and clean the carb. Reinstall air filter and then do a base setting to air/fuel mixture (seat a/f screw and turn counterclockwise 2 1/2 turns.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 16, 2012 5:26:32 GMT -6
Thanks Alleyoop. I most certainly will inspect the cvt at 1000miles.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 15, 2012 12:19:52 GMT -6
Installed the new clutch. Bike seems to be fine now. Put 50 miles on it so far.
Really digging the 6g rollers!
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