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Post by garyv on Sept 13, 2017 18:52:40 GMT -6
This really has me stumped. The scooter sat for about 3 years and ran perfect when parked. I started out by removing the fuel tank and dumping the fuel. Added a gallon of fresh fuel. I had fogged the engine so it turned over easily. I installed a new spark plug and it fired right up. Had it on the center stand and ran it for several minutes. I then decided to perform routine maintenance. I mounted two new tires, replaced the air and fuel filters, changed front and rear brake fluid, engine oil, drive axle lube, and coolant. In doing so, I had it running to bring up to temp and bleed air out of cooling system and it was still running well. I had almost all of the plastic off so with the maintenance complete and it running well I installed all plastic and put in a new battery. The next night I was going to take it for a test drive. It wouldn't start. No spark at the spark plug. I bypassed the safety switches for the rear brake and side stand. I started to pull off all the plastic while checking for disconnected/pinched wires. Nothing out of line found so now I am thinking something decided to fail coincidentally to my reassembly. All plastic has been removed as I checked all connections. I checked the primary and secondary resistance at the ignition coil and they were within specs per the service manual. I checked the resistance at the two wires from the pickup coil from the stator - ok. The service manual tells me to check the black/white exciter coil wire from the AC generator. I don't have a black/ white wire in that area. In fact they say it is on the right side of the bike and I don't have a wire like that there at all. I then traced battery voltage from the fuse block to the ignition coil. I followed that power circuit all the way to the cdi and to the coil and I have battery voltage throughout. This made me think I have a bad cdi so tonight I installed a new one. Still no spark. I've got to be missing something but this thing has me stumped. Any ideas?
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Post by cyborg on Sept 17, 2017 11:55:19 GMT -6
Check all grounds,, particularly the engine to frame
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Post by ellpee on Sept 18, 2017 7:13:27 GMT -6
Very impressive list of things you checked, but the first thing I'd have checked would have been the plug wire. Maybe you did that and didn't mention it?
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Post by garyv on Sept 19, 2017 11:30:10 GMT -6
I checked the resistance from the coil primary through the plug wire and it was within the ohm spec in service manual. Is there another way to check it?
All engine grounds are good. I followed as many of them as I could by using the wiring diagram in the service manual
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Post by ellpee on Sept 20, 2017 7:26:03 GMT -6
Your checking skills are way above mine. What I've done is first see if I see a strong blue spark across the plug gap, and if no, remove the plug and put a nail or screw in the plug boot and see if I get a strong blue spark from that. If no, conceivably there's just something wrong with the plug wire itself, rather than the more complicated electrical stuff upstream. Simplest-to-hardest theory. But it's certainly possible what you did covers the same territory; I'm not enough of an electrician to know.
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Post by garyv on Sept 21, 2017 11:25:29 GMT -6
ellpee, There is no spark from spark plug (tried two different ones) when help against and grounded to the engine. To confirm proper ground I also clamped a heavy wire from the threaded portion of the spark plug to the negative terminal of the battery. My "checking skills" come from many years as an auto tech.
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Post by cyborg on Sept 21, 2017 21:08:23 GMT -6
Cdi is bad
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Post by garyv on Sept 25, 2017 14:52:00 GMT -6
As with all parts, I guess I ordered and received a defective one (CDI). To confirm and because I decided I have had enough with it, I took it to the local dealership last week. They checked it and agree, the CDI is bad. I decided to let them replace it to keep the burden of correct diagnosis with them. They had to order it and it is supposed to be in this week.
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Post by ellpee on Sept 25, 2017 18:28:05 GMT -6
What a saga. The good news is, you at least had a local dealer who would work on your scoot and -- presumably -- stand by their work. Would that I'd have been so lucky with my MAINLAND Chinese scoots, Roketa and Ice Bear. Who'da thunk it, in a metro area of close to a million (Tucson) nobody wants to touch anything Chinese. Lesson learned should I ever buy another scoot, though that's very unlikely: price ain't everything.
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Post by garyv on Sept 29, 2017 12:35:33 GMT -6
Well, it might be good they will work on it but when I checked yesterday they had put the new CDI on and it still has no spark. Now they need to dig into diagnosis again
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Post by cyborg on Sept 30, 2017 7:23:50 GMT -6
Hall effect sensor
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Post by ellpee on Sept 30, 2017 8:15:20 GMT -6
Ah, another learning opportunity for Ellpee. I read up on WHAT that is, but WHERE is it on a scooter? From the Wikipedia description I'm guessing it's somewhere down near the rotor/stator stuff. Is it a wee gizmo that can be replaced individually, or is it built into some larger, more expensive assembly?
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Post by cyborg on Sept 30, 2017 20:02:08 GMT -6
It's just the trigger coil that tells everyone else in the chain of ignition to fire,,,, and should be a small coil held on by a 10mm bolt right next to the flywheel/stator
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Post by garyv on Oct 2, 2017 10:01:49 GMT -6
Cyborg, Would the Hall Effect sensor be what my service manual is calling a "pick up sensor"? There are two wires for it - the pick up sensor - (plus the 3 wires for the three phase charging) coming from the the stator area. There is a spec for ohm's of resistance between those two wires in the manual and my readings were right in the middle of the stated range.
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Post by cyborg on Oct 2, 2017 20:43:01 GMT -6
Yep
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